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Thread: Challenge 2020-2021 Sheets
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5th November 2020, 09:57 PM #46
Now there’s a fine turn of phrase I need to store for future use.
Then I’m very pleased to make your acquaintance!
(And if anyone feels they need to know the story behind that affectionate forces nickname you’ll need to PM one of us; it doesn’t pass the forum’s “would-it-offend-a-9YO-girl” test )Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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5th November 2020 09:57 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th November 2020, 11:31 PM #47
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11th November 2020, 06:46 PM #48
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12th November 2020, 07:58 AM #49
Sadly - fun and games for the sailors and we get the bad rep.
Anyway, some cheesy progress pics of today's work. Very pleasant weather for Nov, so took advantage and moved outside:
IMG_0094 copy.jpgIMG_0095 copy.jpg
6 mm deep x 17 mm wide at the sole. The key will be 21 mm at its widest. Next step is to create the dovetail shape in the slot, then fashion the key to match.
IMG_0098 copy.jpg
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12th November 2020, 03:18 PM #50
And all performed with JP tools: Of course.
I hope that Purpleheart retains it's colour for you as it is very striking. Umm: Perhaps you should make a mallet with it.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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13th November 2020, 01:30 AM #51
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13th November 2020, 08:54 AM #52
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13th November 2020, 09:18 AM #53
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16th November 2020, 08:37 AM #54
The key in the door. I made the key the full length of the ebony blank as it is easier to manipulate and shape accurately by hand. It is in quite tight, so I will leave as is and cut it to length. Should it come loose, I can re-insert it with a touch of glue. I was worried it might split out the short sections of the body on the blade side of the mouth, but no such misfortune.
IMG_0104.JPG
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16th November 2020, 09:01 AM #55
Good job Sheets.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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16th November 2020, 10:03 AM #56
I like these “design features”
Sheets that looks great, I actually like the contrast,job well done.
Cheers Matt.
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16th November 2020, 10:35 AM #57
Thanks Guys,
This wasn't a feature I had planned, but at least its one of those that has a straightforward solution. I like the contrast too, so my use of tagua nut as the plugs for the chip breaker holes really doesn't make sense. So I'll fashion some out of ebony as well.
Steve
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25th November 2020, 08:47 PM #58New Members
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Having read the whole tread to see if somebody answered that for you, I will tell you, even though very late, that the shelf in question is called "tsutsumi".
Really nice work on the dai, i was surprised to see you do it with a tsutsumi to begin with, as it is very hard to do, and it does not have but a cosmetic role, IMO.
That being said I am by no means an authority in japanese planes, and I will stand corrected
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26th November 2020, 12:34 AM #59
Thanks for the comments. I don't find it particularly hard to create the tsusumi (thanks for reminding of the correct term) relative to the making of the rest of the dai - just have to ease off on the chisel as you get to the mouth opening and then sort of pare wood away. There is a special crank-neck chisel made for this purpose, paring across the grain. I don't have that tool, so I just pare with he grain. Doesn't look as tidy.
I did see one Japanese guy on YouTube that sort of explained the purpose of the tsusumi as preventing the edge of the dai opening behind the bevel from getting snagged on the edge of whatever you may be planing at the end of the stroke - I don't see that as a problem that needs fixing, and anyway eventually the tsusumi is going to disappear as the sole gets conditioned/corrected over time. There are many used kanna out there that no longer have, or never had a tsusumi, so its obviously not considered necessary.
Anyway, I just try to create the tsusumi for the "challenge".
Ps., I just re-read my book on J-tools by Toshio Odate (I knew I had a reference somewhere) - he says there that the tsusumi was thought to help prevent blade chatter by adding support to the blade bevel, but can also cause the sole to distort if the blade gets pushed down on it when taking a thicker shaving - and it does disappear eventually, so he doesn't see it as necessary either.
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26th November 2020, 01:00 AM #60
Just some proof of progress:
Paring away some of the key to open the mouth - starting with .5 mm. I still need to remove wood from the key further inside so there is clearance for the chip-breaker:
IMG_0113 copy.jpg
One of the plugs:
IMG_0116 copy.jpg
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