Thread: Challenge 2020 - 2021 Simplicity

Originally Posted by IanW

Matt, the sides virtually always close up at the top during peening - it seems to be inevitable. The first thing I do when the body comes off the peening block is check for square - it almost never is. I've tried to prevent this by tapering the peening block a little (I've also read suggestions to put a strip of veneer under the sides along the top but haven't tried that yet), which has been hit-&-miss successful for me. I don't seem to be able to predict how much tension the peening will put on those sides. If the taper is only a fraction of a mm, I usually ignore it, perfectly square sides would matter if you want to use it as a shooting plane, but (particularly on a curved sided plane) it doesn't matter if it's too little to see easily. However, any taper can make fitting the infill more of a challenge (again, particularly with curved sides) and an even bigger challenge if fitting a fixed frog like you're doing.

You can indeed straighten them (I think your method was quite ingenious - you might even get an extra 1/4 of a mark if you include it in your write-up ), but I suggest to others to do that before you file the pins flush because you can pop your joints a little if you have to do any serious spreading of the sides. If you didn't get any sign of joint movement it's actually a good testament to the thoroughness of your peeening!

Interested to see what you'll do now - re-make your frog ( ), or use some spacers to regain your tight fit?

Cheers,

Due to having a pathetically week soul,an with the chance to suck up and score points(part of point),
An knowing full well some hear are even lower than me [emoji6].
I’ve decided to give into Ian’s request,
My soon to be intellectual property patent
Bolt thingy idea mark one.

Also I filed of the makers marks on the head of the bolt, so has not to scar the inside face of the plane.
I actually used three to square the plane body up.





Cheers Matt.

Ingenious Matt

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Ingenious Matt

Regards
Paul

Shhhhhhhh

People will hear , I haven’t applied for my patent yet.

Cheers Matt.
Thank Paul [emoji6]

I need either some advice, or some courage,maybe both.

One of my weekend jobs on the plane was to pin the sides to the soul, at each four corners for a little bit of extra over engineering principle.
An also pin my chatter block to the sides.

My intention was to drill and tap a M2 hole,
Then make a M2 Brass bolt, insert that into sed hole a small countersink and peen the head flat.
Threaded rivet!


I’m now concerned about breaking the Tap, there bloody tiny !!!!.
An I’ve only got one,(that took two weeks for delivery)

The smallest Tap, I think I’ve ever used is M4
The brass sides are only 5 mm thick the soul is 6 mm thick.
Should I get a M3 Tap instead,
But that only leaves one mm either side on the hole wall !!


Or maybe I should try as Ian suggested try a Clock makers pin, tho I’m still not sure how that works?

The Brass wire in the pics is 2.38 mm and 3.18 mm



Cheers Matt.

I think pinning through the sole would be overkill. As I see it you are trying to prevent the sides from splaying out; you can achieve that by screwing or riveting them to the stuffing.

Alternatively if you’ve got a good sized heat source you could soft-solder the sides where they meet the sole in front of the dovetail.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I think pinning through the sole would be overkill. As I see it you are trying to prevent the sides from splaying out; you can achieve that by screwing or riveting them to the stuffing.

Alternatively if you’ve got a good sized heat source you could soft-solder the sides where they meet the sole in front of the dovetail.

Chief,
My main concern is to keep the sides at the very ends from yes splaying out.
Tho possibly yes it’s not going to happen!
Correct I could screw or use a cross bar through the stuffing.
It would be the later if anything.
But that still leaves the chatter block , backing board for the plane.
Tho that is 6 mm so a little bit of wiggle room.
I’m not keen on going the soft solder , incase I get it weeping through to the out side of the body.
But I will sleep on it.

Cheers Matt.

Matt, I'm with the Chief, the ends are not normally pinned to the sole, and it would be quite the chore to do that. I've not used a tap smaller than M3 myself and they are delicate enough. I'd hate to see you shear a tap off in your masterpiece! (I have starter/intermediate & full taps for each size, too, which makes it a lot safer than trying to cut the full thread in one pass).

I did notice you had made the ends longer than is typically done, they are usually kept quite short, around say 5mm or so. Soldering the ends would work, & I guess you have plenty of practice at that, but it will possibly leave a small visible line of solder.

There should be little or no stress at the ends once the infill is in place and it is unlikely to be a problem, but if you want peace of mind, take CT's suggestion & put a 1/8" pin across from side to side through the infill. Easier to do neatly than pinning from the sole side.


You can buy assorted packs of clockmakers pins, but if you only need a few they are easy to make. What I've done is to put a bit of say 3mm rod in the battery drill & file a taper on it so that it will go 4-5mm into a 2.5mm hole. Drill through the top piece ad about a mm into the other with a 3mm bit, then drill another 5 or so mm with a 2.5mm. Make a small countersink, hammer the tapered pin in firmly, cut off, & peen into the recess. Takes a bit of judgement to get the taper of the pin right, but it doesn't seem to be too critical. As I said, I've made some from scraps & tried to bust them apart & it's amazing how well they hold...

Pinning into your 6mm thick frog (which is what I'd call it) should be pretty easy with either tapered pins, or use 3mm threaded rod. Tapered pins could work very well here 'cause they will only experience shearing force, there won't be any tension on the join, so they'd be unlikely to let go.

A "chatter-block" or "blade-block" is a lump of steel attached to the sole to extend the blade bevel up high enough to ensure the back of the blade is sitting on it. These were necessary with very thick blades because the blade bevel extended past the 5mm or so of sole thickness. The block is riveted in place with steel rivets, so you won't see any evidence from the sole

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Shhhhhhhh

People will hear , I haven’t applied for my patent yet.

Matt I fear that the design of the "Bolt thingy idea mark one" is too similar to the Acrow Prop that you may encounter some legal resistance in your patent application.

Originally Posted by doug3030

Matt I fear that the design of the "Bolt thingy idea mark one" is too similar to the Acrow Prop that you may encounter some legal resistance in your patent application.

Na,
I get the the patent lawyer to make it sound all complicated.

Cheers Matt[emoji6]

Originally Posted by doug3030

Matt I fear that the design of the "Bolt thingy idea mark one" is too similar to the Acrow Prop that you may encounter some legal resistance in your patent application.

Doug

I think an Acrow prop would be too big for Matt's plane.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Doug

I think an Acrow prop would be too big for Matt's plane.

Regards
Paul

That just means his plane is too small [emoji12]

It needs to be bigger....

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Maybe something like this?

Frank Klausz using his Monster Molding Plane in his Dream Workshop - YouTube

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Maybe something like this?

Frank Klausz using his Monster Molding Plane in his Dream Workshop - YouTube

I had actually considered making one of those for the challenge but I don't think the blade would fit into my forge.

Well I got some stuff done and didn’t get what I wanted done.
So I decided to file the top of my frog to a more horizontal profile, so it will blend in better with my plans for the rear stuffing.
That went very well and I’m pleased with how it come out, I also made sure it was as flat as possible using a small Norton Oil stone I brought of the internet.


I will need to touch it up once I’ve blended it in with the mouth of the soul.

So I was all fired up to pin it in place using some clock makers pin,
But after doing my trial run , Houston we have a problem, I picked up some brass Rod on Friday,
I knew the grade was different, and it bloody well is different.

Yep different colour.
So I can either turn some the brass from the sides into rod, using my metal lathe.
Or use steel pins and make them a feature.
I’m thinking about turning my own pins,
Ironically my metal lathe came from the vary shed I’m now working in,but is now 1 hour 45 min away, the irony.

But in a twist this will give me time to polish the inside of the sides before I install the frog.

Cheers Matt