Thread: Challenge 2020 - 2021 Simplicity

Originally Posted by Cklett

And you are the one saying that I am getting on with the task. I think you are much closer to a plane than I am.

I have not even started in the body yet.

That looks good by the way. Now I am impresses too.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Cklett,

Don’t fear, I’ve still got a long road ahead of me,
I haven’t even got the steel for my sole yet

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Is that a new experimental frog design? Let me know how it goes. I have a couple of things that look like that which I use with my milling machine. Might save me some time if it works.

Originally Posted by doug3030

Is that a new experimental frog design? Let me know how it goes. I have a couple of things that look like that which I use with my milling machine. Might save me some time if it works.

I kept you posted Doug).

Cheers Matt.
I think there called paper weights not sure?.

Matt, you have a bit of metal-dovetailing experience under your belt now, plus far more metal-bashing experience than most of us, so you'll probably manage just fine, but I feel obliged to warn others that a swooping rear on the sides (it looks like it goes down to not much more than 10mm above the sole at the deep part of the curve), might cause some bother during peen-up. Peening can put a lot of tension on the sides & they may want to distort a bit at the shallow points.

Shallow sections also cause bother if you are making curved sides, the metal likes to kink at the shallow parts instead of makng a nice, clean curve. For that reason, Bill carter advises forming the curve before cutting out the side shape. It makes the bending easier & less fraught, but it sure makes cutting out the shape and dovetails a lot fussier, so it's swings & roundabouts.

Complex curves on the top of the sides can give you a real challenge when fitting the rear woodwork if you plan to over-stuff. I've had more than enough trouble getting a single curve to match neatly on most of the planes I've over-stuffed he woodwork on. Choice of wood helps - don't choose a mongrel, hard, splitty wood like I did for a smoother I made earlier this year, it nearly defeated me, but I managed to get it to fit with just one tiny gap at one point after endless hours of paring & testing.

I used some Ebony scraps for this little palm plane I (almost) finished last week, and it was a delight to work with, by comparison. I think I got the closest fit of any plane I've made so far.Brass_SS_Ebony infill.jpg

It's not quite finished, I want to round the rear bun a bit more, so please excuse the file marks on the top edge of the bun. I was trying out some 4mm stainless steel I bought on ebay for the sole, to see how it works. Not quite as easy to peen as mild steel, but it was easy enough, & it didn't work-harden as I feared it might - some stainless steels work-harden very easily. (I think it's 304, but not 100% sure, the site I bought it from was a bit vague on that point). It was a bit more savage on saw-blades though, the blades only cut well for about 75% of the distance they'll cut in mild steel...

So, on with the show.....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Matt, you have a bit of metal-dovetailing experience under your belt now, plus far more metal-bashing experience than most of us, so you'll probably manage just fine, but I feel obliged to warn others that a swooping rear on the sides (it looks like it goes down to not much more than 10mm above the sole at the deep part of the curve), might cause some bother during peen-up. Peening can put a lot of tension on the sides & they may want to distort a bit at the shallow points.

Shallow sections also cause bother if you are making curved sides, the metal likes to kink at the shallow parts instead of makng a nice, clean curve. For that reason, Bill carter advises forming the curve before cutting out the side shape. It makes the bending easier & less fraught, but it sure makes cutting out the shape and dovetails a lot fussier, so it's swings & roundabouts.

Complex curves on the top of the sides can give you a real challenge when fitting the rear woodwork if you plan to over-stuff. I've had more than enough trouble getting a single curve to match neatly on most of the planes I've over-stuffed he woodwork on. Choice of wood helps - don't choose a mongrel, hard, splitty wood like I did for a smoother I made earlier this year, it nearly defeated me, but I managed to get it to fit with just one tiny gap at one point after endless hours of paring & testing.

I used some Ebony scraps for this little palm plane I (almost) finished last week, and it was a delight to work with, by comparison. I think I got the closest fit of any plane I've made so far.Brass_SS_Ebony infill.jpg

It's not quite finished, I want to round the rear bun a bit more, so please excuse the file marks on the top edge of the bun. I was trying out some 4mm stainless steel I bought on ebay for the sole, to see how it works. Not quite as easy to peen as mild steel, but it was easy enough, & it didn't work-harden as I feared it might - some stainless steels work-harden very easily. (I think it's 304, but not 100% sure, the site I bought it from was a bit vague on that point). It was a bit more savage on saw-blades though, the blades only cut well for about 75% of the distance they'll cut in mild steel...

So, on with the show.....

Cheers,

Ian !.

Considering the depths to which some of my “friends” here are going, I feel compelled to with hold certain information till I feel obligated to show my intentions.

The metal will yield to my Authority or hell will pay like a woman scorned.

I use to say that with a rather large dead Blow hammer in my hand and 20 tons of of Hydraulic pressure in the past,quite an effective tool at times on vehicles.

I have plans for those little wispy bits, that I think will add considerable strength to them.
Actually I’m madly convinced that it will add considerable to the strength at the rear of the Body.
(Hope Derek doesn’t read this!!! He might think I’m Mad)

Ian that’s a lovely little plane, the shape looks very familiar.
Is any Ebony ever considered “scrap”


Cheers Matt.

It was not fun today !!
I soon will be commencing, attempt number three, of one part of my Lever Cap.
First attempt forgot to check if Neil’s drill press table was square to the axis of the quill.
It wasn’t.
Hole for bolt off square!!!!

Second attempt I should have blued the face more(Hate using a blue markie pen thingy would much prefer my blue layout dye).
And gone over my scribe lines more!!

O and a spring loaded centre punch,or a optical centre punch would be nice.(I know we’re one is !!)
So in short I’m having a moan and a wine.





Matt (((

Just looking at your dividers there Matt, reminded me of what just happened to mine.

I found three rusty old ones yesterday and put them in a vinegar bath overnight to clean them up.

All three of them came out with a broken spring clip. they looked alright when they went in. The power of double strength vinegar.

Apart from that they all cleaned up beautifully.

20200930_165859.jpg

Originally Posted by doug3030

Just looking at your dividers there Matt, reminded me of what just happened to mine.

I found three rusty old ones yesterday and put them in a vinegar bath overnight to clean them up.

All three of them came out with a broken spring clip. they looked alright when they went in. The power of double strength vinegar.

Apart from that they all cleaned up beautifully.

20200930_165859.jpg

You must have lucked out Doug,
Out of my Dozen or so dividers at home, all second hand, not one has a broken spring clip.

The one here, was new from Total tools ,it’s a bit average to be honest.


Make sure when you get a good one to sharpen the tips on a stone a little.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Make sure when you get a good one to sharpen the tips on a stone a little.

I have a few good ones, Matt. That's how those ones got rusty. I haven't used them for ages. I just thought it was funny that all three were intact before the vinegar bath but they all broke while soaking overnight.

Originally Posted by doug3030

I have a few good ones, Matt. That's how those ones got rusty. I haven't used them for ages. I just thought it was funny that all three were intact before the vinegar bath but they all broke while soaking overnight.

What super sonic vinegar we’re you using Doug??
That fractures spring steel.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

What super sonic vinegar we’re you using Doug??
That fractures spring steel.

Doug will probably find it was only the rust that was holding them together. When it was dissolved.....

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Originally Posted by Simplicity

What super sonic vinegar we’re you using Doug??
That fractures spring steel.

Doug will probably find it was only the rust that was holding them together. When it was dissolved.....

Paul, I think that would be the only logical conclusion to reach. They were just cheapies, and all about the same age and had not been used for quite a long time. In reality,they are probably not worth the effort to repair. The question now is do I step up to the challenge and improve my forging skills by attempting to forge some new springs out of some old sawplate. The dividers themselves are not worth it but the skills and experience gained may well come in useful later.

Matt, the vinegar is this one, $2.20 for a 2 ltr bottle from Coles. It used to be white/clear until I used three bottles to soak my 21 inch bandsaw blade in it after 10 years of cutting up recycled hardwoods. The band came up looking and performing like new. Even after that the vinegar still had the power to destroy the springs on the dividers. It also removes Titebond III from clamp bars.

vinegar.jpg

Originally Posted by doug3030

Paul, I think that would be the only logical conclusion to reach. They were just cheapies, and all about the same age and had not been used for quite a long time. In reality,they are probably not worth the effort to repair. The question now is do I step up to the challenge and improve my forging skills by attempting to forge some new springs out of some old sawplate. The dividers themselves are not worth it but the skills and experience gained may well come in useful later.

Matt, the vinegar is this one, $2.20 for a 2 ltr bottle from Coles. It used to be white/clear until I used three bottles to soak my 21 inch bandsaw blade in it after 10 years of cutting up recycled hardwoods. The band came up looking and performing like new. Even after that the vinegar still had the power to destroy the springs on the dividers. It also removes Titebond III from clamp bars.

vinegar.jpg

Thanks Doug, maybe I should switch my brand royalty, I was using double strength cleaning vinegar from Bunnies(That’s not a typo lol)

I will go hunting!

Cheers Matt.

Overnight I repented my sins, and today I was blessed with files that were in order,
I feel blessed, Part one of three completed for the Lever Cap.



Cheers Matt.