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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussiephil View Post
    A little more done, thinking now about doing a real mirror finish on the blade.

    Spent a couple hours now on the belt sander to get rid of any milling marks, now to work up the grits to get rid of the sanding marks.

    Need to bevel the sides yet to final dimensions and then start to work on the custom printed inside for the wooden body.

    We should finish dimension at 12mm thick at the top, 8mm thick before the blade cutting bevel. 70mm wide at the top and i think 68mm at the blade.

    Attachment 491795 Attachment 491796

    had to check the weight -> 673grams, be interesting how much comes off when we finish the cutting bevel and the radius on the top corners

    So still in the extended race
    Phil

    That blade is looking so shiny!

    I may have to work out a strategy for my leaf springs. ( I have just had a thought will Simplicity's "Body" be wearing an L-Spring?). I may have to enlist some help as going back to clean metal with W & D is an awful lot of rubbing. My thick blades are nearly 10mm and will have to reduce to 9mm to end up with clean metal.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #77
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Phil

    That blade is looking so shiny!

    I may have to work out a strategy for my leaf springs. ( I have just had a thought will Simplicity's "Body" be wearing an L-Spring?). I may have to enlist some help as going back to clean metal with W & D is an awful lot of rubbing. My thick blades are nearly 10mm and will have to reduce to 9mm to end up with clean metal.

    Regards
    Paul
    There is no way the body is dropping to those underneath standards.

    Thank you very much.

  4. #78
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Not far enough away from Melbourne
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    4,200

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    I may have to enlist some help as going back to clean metal with W & D is an awful lot of rubbing. My thick blades are nearly 10mm and will have to reduce to 9mm to end up with clean metal.
    Angle grinder could remove a fair bit of metal quite rapidly. With a little practice you can do very accurate work that way. I know knifemakers who use that technique to make very good knives.

    If you have a belt sander you might be able to get the right sized metal-grinding belt to fit on it. It would not work as well as a proper metal belt grinder as the speed will be too slow but it would work up to a point.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  5. #79
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    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    646

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Please explain “I need to work up the grits”
    I WANT to know at what grit stage I stop on my blade.[emoji6]

    Phil, you can’t beat a mirror polish on Tool steel, but boy do you have to work for it.

    Cheers Matt.
    Please explain: just me being economical with words ... up through the grits

    I started at 60 and the above is 80. I have 120 next in the green Zirconia set, man those things are sharp if you touch them when running

    I have 120, 240, 600, 1000 on the way in Aluminum Oxide

    All that is on the cheap belt/disc machine and no hotter than me fingers can tolerate.

    Once I hit 1000 a bit of time at 1600 wet and dry should see a finished shine, a can get out as far as 4000 but even 1600 will be tedious

    Cheers
    Phil

  6. #80
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    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Angle grinder could remove a fair bit of metal quite rapidly. With a little practice you can do very accurate work that way. I know knifemakers who use that technique to make very good knives.

    If you have a belt sander you might be able to get the right sized metal-grinding belt to fit on it. It would not work as well as a proper metal belt grinder as the speed will be too slow but it would work up to a point.
    Mines on the "im a cheapskate" ryobi belt/disk bench sander, the zirconia belts have made a big difference to the material removed

    The angle grinder with even the finer grades of flap disks can end up taking a big bite and leaving grooves that are just too deep.... good for doing the radius corners though

    Cheers
    Phil

  7. #81
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    I've walked past the blade to many times and decided to spend some time standing at the sander, about half way with 600, had to jump from 240 to 600... really want a 400 grit belt

    For anyone that missed it, that is from a large left spring and it's all been milled and sanded without any heat treatment to make it easier.... it's been interesting.

    P5280051.jpg P5280049.jpg

    Body and blade, really need to marry these two together, brought the blade in to measure up and design the 3D printed insert.

    small progress but at least it's something

  8. #82
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    Feb 2009
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    Adelaide - outer south
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    So does that mean that you will cut a relatively simple cavity in the body to accept the insert which will then hold the blade?
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  9. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    6,929

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussiephil View Post
    I've walked past the blade to many times and decided to spend some time standing at the sander, about half way with 600, had to jump from 240 to 600... really want a 400 grit belt

    For anyone that missed it, that is from a large left spring and it's all been milled and sanded without any heat treatment to make it easier.... it's been interesting.

    P5280051.jpg P5280049.jpg

    Body and blade, really need to marry these two together, brought the blade in to measure up and design the 3D printed insert.

    small progress but at least it's something
    Phil,
    Is your blade still in its soft state.?

    Cheers Matt.

  10. #84
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    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Phil,
    Is your blade still in its soft state.?

    Cheers Matt.
    It still in whatever state it was as a spring…

    cheers
    phil

  11. #85
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    Aug 2006
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    Canberra - West Belco
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    Quote Originally Posted by labr@ View Post
    So does that mean that you will cut a relatively simple cavity in the body to accept the insert wich will then hold the blade?
    Well relatively simple V shaped cutout I think, I’ll draw it up in F360 and see what works. Thinking as I typed this I might end up milling out a section for the insert.
    Cheers
    phil

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