Thread: Challenge 2020-21 Bellbodyboards

Welcome aboard. Doubly welcome because you're making a wooden plane

Welcome to the plane game! Nice selection of wood - looking forward to seeing your creation.

Steve

Welcome!
Have fun.
Pete.

I have now milled the timber and soughted the configuration of timbers. Final result
- middle piece from Pacific teak, flanked either side by iron bark, followed by thin strip of black butt and outer skin using red gum.
Due to over milling, I was forced to use and strip,of timber for the sole, so I used pacific teak.
The teak and iron bark were laminated using epoxy resin, clamped and left to cure for 24 hours. I forgot to mention I began the process back in mid November 2020 and did not want to commit as there were family things that were on the horizon and could possibly prevent me from completion. Since that time, matters are now in the past and I was able to devote the time to fully commit to completion.
I used epoxy resin to assist in reducing any possible movement between the laminated pieces.
Regards
Anthony

Thank you for being so welcoming
Regards
Anthony

Welcome and good to see progress. To your first question. You should just add any update as a response to your original post so that all your progress is in one thread.
That's at least how all of us did it.

And only when you are done you add your end result to the plane ready thread for judging.

Looking forward how your plane develops.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Whoa another late starter! Welcome aboard Anthony.

Now that all timbers have been laminated into one solid block, I then milled the block.Angles set for back and front of plane and cut on sliding compound saw.
One of the big concerns was accuracy of drilling a hole for the cap screw in the sole of th plane. After placing the iron and chip breaker on the back part of the plane, positioning it a few millimetres from the cutting edge, I measured and then using the tip of brad point drill bit. Mark that point and then measure distance from cutting edge to drill point indentation.
That measurement is then transcribed to the sole of plane. It was now over to my pedestal drill. Stop blocks set up and sole of back section of the plane set up against the stop blocks. Then using a Forster bit same size as s/s washer, drill hole to what I believed was deep enough and not go through back of plane. Then using drill bit same size as cap screw, drill through entire back of plane. Before that process I placed a left over scrap of wood wedged to prevent tear out.
Despite checking and checking and measuring and measuring and further measuring, the iron and chip breaker stood proud from the edge. In short the cap screw exit hole hopefully incorrect.
After untold expletives and more expletives, I had a cup of coffee to compose myself and address a way to overcome the error. Eventually had to cut extra length in the centre of the iron using an angle grinder as well as drilling additional holes in the chip breaker.
Turned a negative into a positive given that one can alway overcome problem by thinking it through. Alteration made did the trick.
My apologies for my photo's as I am perplexed as to why some are upside down and others are not when attaching to my post.
Regards
Anthony

Cklett
Thank you for the advice.
Regards
Anthony

Wow, you are flying!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Anthony,
Glad to have another challenger,
An wow your flying along already.

Cheers Matt.

Go man go![emoji106]

Excellent; another jostler for second place!

Welcome aboard the fun ferry; and don’t be afraid to ask for opinions, ideas, affirmation and all-round assistance.

I have now laminated the red gum sides to the main body of the plane. Of course due to an earlier mistake - cap scsrew not aligning with thread on the chip breaker. I wasn.t going to but a tap an die set gvery expensive for a one off) so I thought about an alternative.
So I decided to allocate an old brass hose connector to act at screw top. Method involved inserting a nut in on send of the connector an deluded using epoxy. Let it set and then place plastic straw into centre of nut (reason to avoid epoxy seeping into thread of nut).
Dry and use void created by straw to drill hole. An old cap bolt cut and tightened into epoxied nut. Cap Goldman head, cut, lugs rasped away so will sit flat to connector and then turned using my pedestal drill given I do not own any metal type machinery.
I was pretty happy with the result. The hose connector tightens the iron and chip breaker when I use the Allan key to turn the cap screw located in the sole of the plane.
Regards
Anthony