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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    11,099

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    The addition of the fence is a great idea. I read somewhere that aluminium tends to leave marks on wood. Hence aluminium planes were not really successful. Let us know what your experience will be.
    I too have heard that. Often aluminium components are anodised for this purpose. See how it goes: It may not be an issue.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Lawrencetown, NS, Canada
    Posts
    587

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    One issue with aluminum is that it is relatively soft and easily scratched/dented/gouged/galled or otherwise deformed. On a plane sole, should any of these irregularities rise above the otherwise flat surface, there is the possibility of leaving a trace in the wood surface. I found with using the Makita power planer, which has an aluminum sole, I had to check regularly to ensure nothing had gotten stuck or made a mark that transferred to the surface being planed. Not too critical, as this tool is generally made for rough work anyway. But its always annoying when a planer pass makes things worse vice better.

    Steve

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Posts
    38

    Default Clarification of aluminium concern

    Good afternoon everyone
    I am appreciative of input from all fellow woodworkers regarding the use of aluminium.As they say two heads are better than one and apart from that I encourage different ideas and listening to people who have more experience/ skill than myself.
    I wish to clarify that the aluminium flat bar is not used in any part of the plane. The metal is only used on the attachment when I need to level the edge of a piece of timber for jointing purposes.
    In saying that I will still let forum members know if the aluminium does mark or do anything adverse to the timber after numerous trial uses upon completion of my plane for this challenge.
    Regards
    Anthony

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Lawrencetown, NS, Canada
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Ah, I see - I obviously misunderstood exactly how the aluminum was being used. Makes perfect sense as a guide - not much pressure applied, so little risk of jamming something into it. Anyway, looking forward to seeing how your plane progresses - you are certainly wasting no time on #5 biscuits and beer!

    Steve

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Posts
    38

    Default More progress

    I epoxied brass flat bar to the plane's sole and drilled four holes to screw the plate down. Left the head of the screw proud of the brass bar with intention of sanding flat. Well what a mistake. I tried unscrewing the screws but epoxy made that impossible... at least for me.
    Then trimmed using an angle grinder but nearly ruined the brass. Gave that idea up. Then tried to grind screws flat with some success but not to my likening.
    Any way did what I could and ended up with something that is no way perfect but something I will have to live with. All experience and will know better on another occasion.
    Trying to convince myself the plane is wabi sabi- Japanese art of beauty in imperfection. It helps me to accept the error is one cosmetic error rather than a functional error.
    Kind regards
    Anthony
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #36
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    808

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    Quote Originally Posted by bellbodyboards View Post
    I epoxied brass flat bar to the plane's sole and drilled four holes to screw the plate down. Left the head of the screw proud of the brass bar with intention of sanding flat. Well what a mistake. I tried unscrewing the screws but epoxy made that impossible... at least for me.
    Then trimmed using an angle grinder but nearly ruined the brass. Gave that idea up. Then tried to grind screws flat with some success but not to my likening.
    Any way did what I could and ended up with something that is no way perfect but something I will have to live with. All experience and will know better on another occasion.
    Trying to convince myself the plane is wabi sabi- Japanese art of beauty in imperfection. It helps me to accept the error is one cosmetic error rather than a functional error.
    Kind regards
    Anthony
    We have all been there. But if you still want to remove it again, did you try heat? With heat you can break down the epoxy and remove the plate again and try a different way.

    Most people use slotted screws for something like that. They grind down so that the slot dissapears.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Posts
    38

    Default Thank you

    Hello Cklett
    Thank you for the advice but I'm a little apprehensive heating the brass plate. My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
    Regards
    Anthony

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    3,402

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    Quote Originally Posted by bellbodyboards View Post
    My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
    Hi Anthony,

    The best extractor I’ve ever used for removing chewed out screws is the Grabbit; there are copies available but I doubt they are as strong. They are expensive, but they’ll last you for years.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,099

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bellbodyboards View Post
    Hello Cklett
    Thank you for the advice but I'm a little apprehensive heating the brass plate. My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
    Regards
    Anthony
    Anthony

    The Chief's suggestion looks pretty good, but if you don't wish to part with hard earned cash at the moment and if you have an angle grinder, use it with a thin cutting disc to cut a slot in the remains of the screw head, Don't worry about cutting into the brass plate as that is destined for the recycle bin any way, Then you should be able to remove it with a flat head screwdriver. If the head has been mostly filed away still continue, but treat it like a grub screw.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #40
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bellbodyboards View Post
    Hello Cklett
    Thank you for the advice but I'm a little apprehensive heating the brass plate. My other issue is how to remove the screws given the head of the screw has been filed away.
    Regards
    Anthony
    You don't need much heat. A heatgun is sufficient.

    The ground screws are a problem, but you already have a few suggestions there.

    Alternatively you can also drill them out and fill the holes with a piece of dowel.

    On the other hand it is on the bottom of the plane. So at least when lying on the bench no one sees it.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Posts
    38

    Default Thank you

    Hello Forum members
    Many thanks to you all for your empathy and advice. I'll have a shot at trying to remove the plate and screws as per suggestions. Not sure when this will happen but some time soon.
    Once again thank you- I appreciated it very much.
    Regards
    Anthony

  13. #42
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    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bellbodyboards View Post
    Hello Forum members
    Many thanks to you all for your empathy and advice. I'll have a shot at trying to remove the plate and screws as per suggestions. Not sure when this will happen but some time soon.
    Once again thank you- I appreciated it very much.
    Regards
    Anthony
    Good luck. I forgot to detail and you might already know, but just in case. I understand that when using screws for something like that the holes on the metal should only be bug enough that the shank of the screw fits through. And then don't countersink them. Maximum a tiny chamfer on the hole.
    Best to use slotted countersink screws. They will stick out when tightened, but the slot will not be lower than the metal surface. So when grinding off it disappears.
    I had good results with very small brass Phillips head screws, but they do leave a tiny dint. For bigger screws that's probably worse.

    Young Ye on Youtube does that a lot in his plane builds.

    As I said you might already know, but thought I mention it just in case.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Posts
    38

    Default More progress

    Good afternoon Forum members
    After much deliberation I have chosen to leave brass plate on the sole of the plane as is because it reflects my mistake and a subsequent learning curve for me.
    I have drilled two holes into the body of the plane and epoxied two couplers. The couplers will take the cap screws which will connect the support for the attachment. The same size Allen key is used for the attachment support for jointing as well as tightening the iron from under the plane.
    Sounds confusing but hopefully the photographs will be self explanatory.
    When the support attachment is not in use, I cover the holes ( that have the coupler) with a brass cover that had a hole drilled though the middlethrough which I epoxied a threaded bolt. The sharp edges of the bolt head was partially sanded to take off the sharp edges.
    The threaded bold head is not obtrusive when holding the plane
    Regards
    Anthony
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #44
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    Mar 2018
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Posts
    38

    Default Additional details

    I forgot to mention in the earlier thread that I had to use a spring washer as the cap screw and nut embedded in the brass cover was not effective to tighten the iron and chip breaker. The use of the spring washer did the trick.
    Regards
    Anthony
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bellbodyboards; 3rd March 2021 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Forgot to sign off

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    near Mackay
    Age
    59
    Posts
    4,628

    Default

    Lookin good, I like the curvy style you have chosen.
    ​Brad.

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