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  1. #136
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    You should leave the drain hole. I am sure the plane turns out sooo well that everybody is drooling all over it. And then where does it go? Or am I mixing that up with a different plane in the competition?.....

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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  3. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    When looking side-on at the sole you can clearly see an undeniable connection between The Brute and Richard Kiel

    Without knowing the name of the actor that played "Jaws"...........

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    You should leave the drain hole. I am sure the plane turns out sooo well that everybody is drooling all over it. And then where does it go? Or am I mixing that up with a different plane in the competition?.....

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    CK

    I t could in fact be a drain hole for when I leave the plane out on the bench and the rain blows in.


    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  5. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    CK

    I t could in fact be a drain hole for when I leave the plane out on the bench and the rain blows in.


    Regards
    Paul
    I think you should tap a thread into it and come up with an amazing attachment nobody has ever thought off.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  6. #140
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    We seem to be focusing on my hole for the moment so I am bringing it back to my thread. The latest concept of leaving it there so it can be padlocked to a heavy object seems to be gaining favour. Now I am not necessarily going with this idea:

    P1070100 (Medium).JPG

    I need to channel my thoughts .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    We seem to be focusing on my hole for the moment so I am bringing it back to my thread. The latest concept of leaving it there so it can be padlocked to a heavy object seems to be gaining favour. Now I am not necessarily going with this idea:

    P1070100 (Medium).JPG

    I need to channel my thoughts .

    Regards
    Paul
    Iím personally in favour of the blemish(hole), being stuffed with some exotic other metal(brass).
    An it being called a a beauty spot.???

    Cheers Matt.

  8. #142
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    I think I would get the arc welder out, pretty easy job to fill that hole and grind/sand it back flat.
    ​Brad.

  9. #143
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    Thank you Brad and Matt for your thoughts. I could do either suggestion. I was in fact going to weld, but I also like the idea of a beauty spot in brass, although that may fly in the face of my following comments.

    I had to trim the square hole up after drilling holes. I decided to use my brand new seventy year old Lesto/Scintilla jigsaw with the metal cutting blades supplied by Huon Pine Fan ( ). Actually it was a big ask as not only did I have to cut to the line, it was where the curvature of the channel section is so I was cutting close to 10mm of steel. The jigsaw was fine but it was a bit much for the blades. I used one blade for each side:

    P1070121 (Medium).JPG

    Apologies: Working and photographing under adverse conditions. I could see that the clean up to the line was going to be a bastard of a job so I used a bastard file.


    P1070123 (Medium).JPG

    The curvature at the side will have to be removed also to allow the blade to slide forward but I have not done that yet. You can see here just how much metal will need to be removed, particularly for a bevel up blade.

    P1070128 (Medium).JPG

    Now the reason I may not include a beauty spot is that I am actively removing some of the natural curvature. If it was a human, it would be within the realms of a mammary reduction. So in complete contrast to Matt's plane it occurred that a more befitting name, if it had not already been dubbed "The Brute," would be the "Anti-Body."

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #144
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    Anti-Body, I like that name Paul, would it be going a step to far to call it the Antichrist.

    I can have problems sometimes with boundaries.

    Cheers Matt.

  11. #145
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    Matt

    I think I might stick with "The Antibody" as anything even remotely broaching on the ecclesiastical tends to lock horns with my heathen nature.

    I am getting little bits done, but much more in the line of thinking and logistics. I decided to change tack and work on the lever cap. This is particularly challenging for me as I have very little "freeboard" to play with on account of the bevel up design Initially I was planning on a cove in the top of the cap so a rod could sit in trench, but when I got down to it I don't think that will work or will look odd or both. Anyhow, I am not quite at that point yet, but have made up the cap (as yet unfinished) and a timber mock up that I can play with.

    The cap is stainless steel and I was extremely apprehensive, and not a little paranoid, that it would work harden and become unmanageable. I also had to plan the cuts so I had enough material to grab hold of. I remembered from a long time ago when a friend had told me that the secret with stainless is a slow speed and plenty of pressure.

    P1070160 (Medium).JPGP1070161 (Medium).JPG

    It worked a treat and I will enlarge the hole for tapping the thread later on. So with that hurdle out of the way, I was encouraged to cut out the waste using a small hole saw that turned out to be 1", when I read the dimensions imprinted on the side. 250rpm and cutting fluid and I am left wondering why I could have considered it would be an issue! It went through like it was butter much to my surprise and relief.

    P1070163 (Medium).JPG

    The steel was cut to length on the drop saw and more waste with a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder. A little bit of shaping was done on a bench grinder. I made a timber mock up so I can mess around with potential positions for the pivot rod and to gain some appreciation of whether it might work. I used some spotted gum, itself salvaged from a power pole, as I needed to tap a 1/2" BSW thread, The hard Spotty took the coarse thread quite well.

    P1070164 (Medium).JPGP1070166 (Medium).JPG

    Although far from finished, I couldn't help myself and went along the bling trail with a little bit of polishing

    P1070167 (Medium).JPG

    Still a long way to go.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #146
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    Does it need a pivot rod? Rather than trying to affix a long thick-ish rod accurately across the span of the plane body and then cutting out the required groovy notch across the lever cap you could instead fit a pair of rod stubs to the inside faces. These can be made from much shorter and slenderer bits of rod and the corresponding notches in the cap will be more subtle. Fine tuning the lever cap against the blade would be much easier.

    As an added bonus it leaves the face of the lever cap free to add embellishments; such as a pentagram, leviathan cross, a trio of sixes...
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  13. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Does it need a pivot rod? Rather than trying to affix a long thick-ish rod accurately across the span of the plane body and then cutting out the required groovy notch across the lever cap you could instead fit a pair of rod stubs to the inside faces. These can be made from much shorter and slenderer bits of rod and the corresponding notches in the cap will be more subtle. Fine tuning the lever cap against the blade would be much easier.

    As an added bonus it leaves the face of the lever cap free to add embellishments; such as a pentagram, leviathan cross, a trio of sixes...


    Chief

    I am leaning towards stub axles in from either side and drilled into the cap as as it is 10mm thick and plenty of meat there, but I will probably lean towards the heftier side with 6mm to 8 mm rods. Ideally I would like to drill right through the lever cap and use a long rod, but I am not that confident of how straight I can get it. I will go back to Ironwood's thread and swot up on his technique. I think, and I stress the "think" aspect, that because it is a bevel up blade, it does not need the cap close to the cutting edge to act as a quasi cap iron. In that regard the low angle bevel up is a little more tolerant as the lever cap only has to exert pressure to clamp the blade.

    As to decoration, I shall be quite happy if I can just get a fine finish. One advantage of stainless over brass is that whatever level of shine is achieved stays. Brass has to be regularly buffed or polished to be shiny. My artistic skills are not really something I would include in a CV!!

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Matt

    I think I might stick with "The Antibody" as anything even remotely broaching on the ecclesiastical tends to lock horns with my heathen nature.

    I am getting little bits done, but much more in the line of thinking and logistics. I decided to change tack and work on the lever cap. This is particularly challenging for me as I have very little "freeboard" to play with on account of the bevel up design Initially I was planning on a cove in the top of the cap so a rod could sit in trench, but when I got down to it I don't think that will work or will look odd or both. Anyhow, I am not quite at that point yet, but have made up the cap (as yet unfinished) and a timber mock up that I can play with.

    The cap is stainless steel and I was extremely apprehensive, and not a little paranoid, that it would work harden and become unmanageable. I also had to plan the cuts so I had enough material to grab hold of. I remembered from a long time ago when a friend had told me that the secret with stainless is a slow speed and plenty of pressure.

    P1070160 (Medium).JPGP1070161 (Medium).JPG

    It worked a treat and I will enlarge the hole for tapping the thread later on. So with that hurdle out of the way, I was encouraged to cut out the waste using a small hole saw that turned out to be 1", when I read the dimensions imprinted on the side. 250rpm and cutting fluid and I am left wondering why I could have considered it would be an issue! It went through like it was butter much to my surprise and relief.

    P1070163 (Medium).JPG

    The steel was cut to length on the drop saw and more waste with a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder. A little bit of shaping was done on a bench grinder. I made a timber mock up so I can mess around with potential positions for the pivot rod and to gain some appreciation of whether it might work. I used some spotted gum, itself salvaged from a power pole, as I needed to tap a 1/2" BSW thread, The hard Spotty took the coarse thread quite well.

    P1070164 (Medium).JPGP1070166 (Medium).JPG

    Although far from finished, I couldn't help myself and went along the bling trail with a little bit of polishing

    P1070167 (Medium).JPG

    Still a long way to go.

    Regards
    Paul

    Paul,

    I still think the Anti-Christ would be an executable name, considering the dark private conversations we have, some involving female forms, but thatís probably just giving out ďNoiseĒ[emoji6]

    So I will go along with Antibody as you so wish.


    Be careful with Lever Caps Iím on my third or is it forth attempt, Iíve deliberately lost count, too save face.

    Iím not quite understanding how you attend to attach the Lever Cap , or pivot it I should say?.

    One other point is the 1/2 BSW thread an attempt to win points from the judges being there in that ďage bracketĒ because thatís very cunning.

    Ps The lever cap is looking very nicely done.

    Cheers Matt.

  15. #149
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    It has been a long time between drinks and I had to go back to my earlier posts to see just where I am at: That's always a little confronting for me as I think to myself, "Did I really say that?"

    Well, there has been a little bit of progress, and a disproportionate amount of trials and tribulations. Some of my work is a little ahead of itself. I have settled on Hairy/Bull Oak timber for the infills and one problem I had was not having a large enough piece for the handle. This held up the timber decision until I then realised I could glue a few bits together. Except they were not long enough to run through the thicknesser to obtains the correct even thickness so this is what I devised:

    P1070195 (Medium).JPG

    The medullary rays actually lend themselves very well to a glue up and largely remove the need to match the grain. Of course the long guides will just be cut off.

    The next problem was that my only piece of brass flat bar was way too small and it left a huge gap at the mouth. The brass will be a shoe ahead of the blade and removes the difficulty of filing a tight mouth with the bevel up blades. The brass will eventually sit up against the bun infill.

    P1070178 (Medium).JPG

    Simplicity came to the rescue with some offcuts of brass (thanks Matt: Much appreciated) and I made up two more pieces. They were oversize for the piece of pine but somehow in transferring to the Oaks the gap is again more than I wanted!. I will drop the bed angle down a little. I think that should take up the difference.

    P1070181 (Medium).JPG

    The next issue was the blade adjuster. The banjo (I think that is what it is called) I just could not get right. Four attempts in all!!!!

    P1070201 (Medium).JPG


    Part of the problem was that my timber spacer in the drill vice was not square. I kept drilling the hole to be threaded at an angle and the thread came through the side. I trued it up and it worked better.

    P1070203 (Medium).JPG


    I used the Odd Job tool to mark the centre. I think it is such a cute little tool

    P1070198 (Medium).JPG

    Here are the adjuster components. The three messed up banjos are there to remind me that life is not easy. The rod on the left is 1/4" and that on the right is 5/16" The piece in the middle with the hexagon is a 5mm bolt. The 5mm end will go into the thicker rod while the other end has been slimmed down to 4mm with the thread removed. The left hand end was threaded at 4mm and will go into the thinner rod with the banjo. This "thinning" was just done on a bench grinder as I don't have a metal lathe. Keep rotating it until the thread disappear and you are done. It is hidden and will be glued as well as screwed. Both bits of rod, which started out life as conventional bolts, are for the moment too long and will be cut down to suit the dimensions of the blades. There will be three blades with different sharpening angles. This will allow for different timbers including the cranky ones.

    P1070208 (Medium).JPG

    I am still planning in my minds eye how I will drill and tap the holes in the rods.

    This is how the rear infill will sit in principle, but still has to be shaped. You can see the too large a mouth. ( Who said big mouth?)

    P1070206 (Medium).JPGP1070207 (Medium).JPG

    A little more work was done on the cap iron

    P1070183 (Medium).JPGP1070187 (Medium).JPG

    The Anti-Body will have to have a clean up as I got some surface rust when a rain storm blew into the shed. Fortunately it is fairly easily fixed.

    I should at this point say how influenced I was by a well known plane maker who resides in Alstonville. His A55 adjuster is such a good device and my adjuster is very similar. I say similar because his adjuster does not come apart and I have guessed at how it was done. I also wish to assure him that I will not be going into production and he can relax on that score. OK, he was never really worried. On the basis that imitation is a sincere form of flattery I would like him to consider himself soundly flattered.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #150
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    That's looking good. Coming along nicely.

    Although Iam still not sure if I understand how your adjuster works. Can you elaborate?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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