Thread: Plane challenge 2020 - 2021. Bushmiller

Thanks Bob

A useful technique. I am a little torn as to which method I will use: Probably a combination of that video and the centre drill starter.

Regards
Paul

Ya got me a bit confused here, Paul. When you say "banjo" are you referring to the threaded pivot block or the part that engages the blade?

These are the terms I use for the various parts, gleaned from other people's references: Adjuster parts lbld.jpg

In all of this type of adjuster, the part containig the screw thread that drives the shaft is made free to rotate, to allow lateral adjustment. There is no reason why your mechanism can't do lateral adjustment just as well as the Norris/Veritas bunch, if you cut out a V-shaped trench above & below the pivot point, just as you have to do for the Norris type. The only difference will be that the blade will move in the opposite direction from the Norris when you push the shaft over, i.e. when you move the shaft to the right side it will make the right corner of the blade extend more, instead of retract, as happens with both the Norris and Bailey style lateral adjusters. Might take you 30 seconds to get used to it if you are a rusted-on Bailey user....

Cheers,

Ian

You have to appreciate that when it comes to hand planes I don't know what the hell I'm talking about. I don't even know where I got the term "banjo." Did I read it somewhere? Anyhow, rightly or wrongly, I am calling the round bisso with the hole through the centre "banjo", which will be located in the timber blade bed. It does look vaguely banjo shaped. The hexagon shaped thingamajig is an unknown object but it does have a small spigot which locates the blade.

I hope this helps you: I am not convinced it helps me .

I am currently downing coffee and plucking up the courage to drill a hole.

Regards
Paul

Hey Bob, thanks for that video link!

His technique is useful & I'll file it for future use if I ever need to do it without my lathe, but this video, which I happened to spot in the side-window as I was closing the one you linked to, is even more useful to me! I've often needed to drill a hole though a bar, to make "barrel nuts", for e.g. Up 'til now I've used a very clumsy & not-too-reliable way of centering the hole on the side of the bar, but this method is simple & so obvious once pointed out - why couldn't I have thought of it!?

The tip about constantly backing-off the drill bit as you go to keep it running true (especially when drilling deep, small-diameter holes), is probably something taught to first-year fitter apprentices on about day 1, but it took me a very long time & much trial & error to discover it for myself, so take note of that tip if you didn't already know it, Paul..

Cheers,

broken bolt.jpg

Originally Posted by woodPixel

broken bolt.jpg

Actually I would settle just for finding a twenty minute job in the first place. I seem to be able to make any job into three days even without a catastrophe.

Regards
Paul

Paul, I was rifling through some junk today & found this (thought I'd chucked it out years ago!): Primitive adjuster.jpg

So you see, I wasn't joking when I said it was ultra-basic. But it did actually move the blade back & forth, albeit at a pretty rapid pace. No lateral adjustment, of course, but you can't have everything on that sort of budget.....

Cheers,

Yesterday I got stuck into drilling another hole in the top rod. I used ideas from the Chief (centre drill to start the hole) and from Bob's video link to centre the bolt in the vice using the drill chuck.

Plane 1.JPGPlane 3.JPGPlane 2.JPGPlane 4.JPG

It worked quite acceptably. The next shot shows the adjuster, which will sit beneath the blade of course.

Plane 5.JPG

I included this shot to show an unusual display of the medullary rays. It will not normally be seen as the blade will cover it and in truth, while unusual and interesting, it is not particularly attractive: Just different.

Plane 7.JPG

I also began the process of nutting out in my mind where the infill lumps of timber will go. The main problem is the cutouts for the adjuster and in particular the hexagon shape and the round nut. In fact I am anticipating that quite a large recess will have to be created behind the adjust to make comfortable room for fingers to wind the knob.

Plane 8.JPGPlane 10.JPG

Now I am getting close to placing the infills I must remember to weld up the "drainage" hole before that or we will be having a little bonfire!

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Now I am getting close to placing the infills I must remember to weld up the "drainage" hole before that or we will be having a little bonfire!

Have some fish ready if you get the Oak smoking. It makes a great tasting smoke.

Originally Posted by Picko

Have some fish ready if you get the Oak smoking. It makes a great tasting smoke.

Picko

I don't think the smoke will quite make it down to your neck of the woods.



Regards
Paul

Paul,
I’m becoming more and more intrigued by the Anti body, build.first using a bit of steel channel with a beauty spot.
Then using a piece of brass too create a mouth and now you have developed a specialist subject matter of how to drill holes through bolts.
An then your talking about smoking the whole plane, I presume this a finishing procedure know one has ever heard of!!!!.

What’s next ??

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Paul,
I’m becoming more and more intrigued by the Anti body, build.first using a bit of steel channel with a beauty spot.
Then using a piece of brass too create a mouth and now you have developed a specialist subject matter of how to drill holes through bolts.
An then your talking about smoking the whole plane, I presume this a finishing procedure know one has ever heard of!!!!.

What’s next ??

Cheers Matt

Matt

A little bit of filling in. I am unsure at this stage whether the wood will fit the metal or the metal will fit the wood. Maybe a bit of both.

Regards
Paul

Doug3030 made this comment on Aussiephils's thread regarding the polishing /grinding of plane blades.

"Angle grinder could remove a fair bit of metal quite rapidly. With a little practice you can do very accurate work that way. I know knifemakers who use that technique to make very good knives.

If you have a belt sander you might be able to get the right sized metal-grinding belt to fit on it. It would not work as well as a proper metal belt grinder as the speed will be too slow but it would work up to a point."


I had already used the work's linisher, which unfortunately only had a very worn belt and this was some of the results obtained:

On the bevel side of the blade I ended up with reasonable results in terms smoothness, although I could make no impression on the magnetite layer.

P1070255 (Medium).JPG

On the business side of the blade I had less success and you can see a very real problem with the severe pitting in the edge region, which is the worst place it could be. When I first prepared the blades I thought I would use the surface grinder at work to remove the problem, but has since given up the ghost and there is apparently little interest in repairing it despite my representations. My backup strategy is to persuade a friend to put the milling machine across them.

P1070261 (Medium).JPGP1070262 (Medium).JPGP1070263 (Medium).JPGP1070264 (Medium).JPGP1070265 (Medium).JPG

A WIP!

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Doug3030 made this comment on Aussiephils's thread regarding the polishing /grinding of plane blades.

"Angle grinder could remove a fair bit of metal quite rapidly. With a little practice you can do very accurate work that way. I know knifemakers who use that technique to make very good knives.

If you have a belt sander you might be able to get the right sized metal-grinding belt to fit on it. It would not work as well as a proper metal belt grinder as the speed will be too slow but it would work up to a point."


I had already used the work's linisher, which unfortunately only had a very worn belt and this was some of the results obtained:

On the bevel side of the blade I ended up with reasonable results in terms smoothness, although I could make no impression on the magnetite layer.

P1070255 (Medium).JPG

On the business side of the blade I had less success and you can see a very real problem with the severe pitting in the edge region, which is the worst place it could be. When I first prepared the blades I thought I would use the surface grinder at work to remove the problem, but has since given up the ghost and there is apparently little interest in repairing it despite my representations. My backup strategy is to persuade a friend to put the milling machine across them.

P1070261 (Medium).JPGP1070262 (Medium).JPGP1070263 (Medium).JPGP1070264 (Medium).JPGP1070265 (Medium).JPG

A WIP!

Regards
Paul

Paul,
If I was in your shoes , I would be straight down the local bottle shop, with the kids inheritance.
An straight around to “Friend” with a surface grinder afterwards [emoji6].
Please don’t waste a precious resource like wet an dry sandpaper us mere mortals need it.

Cheers Matt