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  1. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    I would have thought that with all the handsawing you must do your "guns" would be big enough to handle anything (at least in the dominant arm) . How fine a finish can you get with a fibre disc? (I'm assuming they are those things that look a bit like a kitchen scourer)
    MA

    I'll post pix with some information this afternoon.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #107
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    MA

    I have been using the fibre discs on my bench grinder for quite a time now. You asked how fine a finish it gives:

    This is less than ten seconds on each of the saw screws. I have left the outside screws untouched to give a comparison.

    P1060581 (Medium).JPG

    Apologies. I have not photographed them well. The difference in the flesh is much more dramatic than in the pix.

    The fibre discs work particularly well on brass, but a greater shine can then be achieved subsequently with conventional polishing if required. These wheels get rid of the bulk of the gunk.

    It works well on most metals. These are some stainless steel off-cuts from the metal I will be using for the lever cap. It is recycled from I don't know what. I only cleaned half of each item again for comparison:
    P1060583 (Medium).JPGP1060587 (Medium).JPG

    So to the fibre wheels themselves. They, like all grinding/polishing wheels, do wear away. This is an 8" grinder but the left hand wheel is now about 6" and the right wheel....It's well overdue for replacement. Just getting my monies worth It is all down to he amount of use they are put to, but these have been in place for about two years I think.

    P1060577 (Medium).JPG

    The bench grinder works well for smaller objects, but can be a little awkward for larger items, particularly as the disc wears away and the body of the grinder gets in the way. So quite recently I purchased these discs for use on a 4" angle grinder. The original project was for cleaning up the lightly rusted column on a radial arm saw. There was no way it was going to the bench grinder. I can barely lift one end!

    I have used it to clean up the sides of the channel on the plane body and the stainless steel for the lever cap.

    P1060580 (Medium).JPGP1060579 (Medium).JPG

    There are different grits available. The higher numbers are harder and more dense and produce a better finish. So 9P is harder than 7P. (I think I have got that the right way around).

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #108
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    Canberra
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    Favour BushMiller, could you post their brand and a link if you acquired them online?

    Those are quite chunky compared to the rather flat ones Ive found so far (plus they use a stiff backing plastic). Yours seem luscious and thick!


    edit - a-ha! One must spell fibre - FIBER - ....

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32809476558.html

    5P/7P/9P NonWoven Nylon Fiber Polishing Buffing Wheel Grinding Discs Metal | eBay
    fiber discs 7p 9p - Google Search

  5. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Favour BushMiller, could you post their brand and a link if you acquired them online?

    Those are quite chunky compared to the rather flat ones Ive found so far (plus they use a stiff backing plastic). Yours seem luscious and thick!


    edit - a-ha! One must spell fibre - FIBER - ....

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32809476558.html

    5P/7P/9P NonWoven Nylon Fiber Polishing Buffing Wheel Grinding Discs Metal | eBay
    fiber discs 7p 9p - Google Search
    WP

    You are quite right "Fiber." (So how is a person who does not tell the truth spelt? "Fibber?" )

    4" angle grinder version. No brand.

    4'' Nylon Fiber Wheel 100mm Abrasive Polishing Buffing Disc Pad Angle Grinder 7P | eBay

    This is typical for the bench grinder versons. It covers several diameters and grits.

    4~12 Inch Nylon Fiber Polishing Wheel Buffing Pad for Polisher 5/7/9P 5/8" Hole | eBay

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #110
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    Thanks Paul. They look like a great idea. I have been using a wire wheel to some effect but it's pretty coarse

  7. #111
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    WP

    You are quite right "Fiber." (So how is a person who does not tell the truth spelt? "Fibber?" )

    4" angle grinder version. No brand.

    4'' Nylon Fiber Wheel 100mm Abrasive Polishing Buffing Disc Pad Angle Grinder 7P | eBay

    This is typical for the bench grinder versons. It covers several diameters and grits.

    4~12 Inch Nylon Fiber Polishing Wheel Buffing Pad for Polisher 5/7/9P 5/8" Hole | eBay

    Regards
    Paul
    Thanks Paul?

    Iíve only used a couple of scotch bright ones from bunnies before on a 4 inch grinder.

    But I didnít realise thereís so many more options.

    Does this mean I can stop buying wet and dry !!.

    Cheers Matt.

  8. #112
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    And thanks WP.

  9. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Thanks Paul?

    Iíve only used a couple of scotch bright ones from bunnies before on a 4 inch grinder.

    But I didnít realise thereís so many more options.

    Does this mean I can stop buying wet and dry !!.

    Cheers Matt.
    Matt

    I wish that it were true, but I'm afraid that it does not make W & D redundant. It does perform a lot of work that would be done with the coarser grades of W & D, but it does not surpass the finer grades. Neither will it give a totally flat surface, particularly if you keep using the grinder. Think of it as a refined or smooth flap disc and you have some understanding of the way it performs. However, they are not too expensive, bought from China.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Matt

    I wish that it were true, but I'm afraid that it does not make W & D redundant. It does perform a lot of work that would be done with the coarser grades of W & D, but it does not surpass the finer grades. Neither will it give a totally flat surface, particularly if you keep using the grinder. Think of it as a refined or smooth flap disc and you have some understanding of the way it performs. However, they are not too expensive, bought from China.

    Regards
    Paul
    Unfortunately that can translate to,be very careful with the course oneís,unless you like finding out later with the Wet and Dry using a flat block or surface plate of some description you have created shiny Hills and Valleys [emoji3064].
    When is this free lunch arriving.

    Cheers Matt.

  11. #115
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    I have been a bit preoccupied with other chores of late including going to work, which seems to becoming a larger chore than I ever remember. However, I thought I should update a bit so people don't think I have fallen off the perch.

    Holy hell, I went looking for my thread and it was two pages back in the list! What have I been doing?

    The answer is, of course, not much!

    Just a little work on the blades. I have prepared two thick blades and four thin blades. I actually started to harden one of the blades and realised I had not drilled the holes for the adjuster. So I let it anneal again and took the opportunity to shape the bevel as well as drilling holes. These are without any cleaning

    P1060599 (Medium).JPG

    It felt like it was taking days to shape the bevel. I did try some shortcuts and attempted to cut steel off with an angle grinder using a cutting disc. it worked well in terms of steel removal but I was not accurate enough and left a scar. One blade I had to re-cut which is why it is shorter than the others. Fortunately any damage is now cosmetic and will be removed with further shaping and sharpening. This is after a little work with the fibre disc only on the top side of the blade:

    P1060602 (Medium).JPG

    The back of the blade is an issue. The four thinner blades I will or can just work at flattening with abrasive paper on a flat surface and I will end up with sufficient flat metal behind the cutting edge for my purpose, but the thick blades I did not select carefully enough and there is a crater behind both ( the two on the right in the pic below). I am hoping the surface grinder at work is going to be repaired soon as that is the only way I can achieve a flat surface there. Given an arm as strong as Matt's I might be able to use abrasive paper technology, but for me hell will freeze over, pigs will fly and I will depart the mortal coil before a flat surface shows itself!

    P1060598 (Medium).JPG

    So apart from lotsa thinking, not much more has been done on this front.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #116
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    NSW
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    I'm watching this with interest Paul. I mentioned when I decided to join this motley crew that I had once collected some material to make a plane but didn't go on with it. It turns out that we had similar ideas and if you look at my build thread, and in particular any photos of my drill press vice, I'm sure you'll see where I ended up using the piece of 75mm channel that I had planned to use for the plane.
    I'll be interested to see how it all works out. It's looking good so far.

  13. #117
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    I realised I had not done anything on my plane since before Xmas but that is not quite correct: It was well before Xmas!

    As I have not really done any serious drawings, there were some frivolous pictures early on in the piece, I decided to cut up some rough radiata pine and put some lumps of timber in place just to see how things might fit. This was after the lower edges were routered with a rounding over bit. I thought it was a perfect fit with a single pass until I reviewed the pix: A little bit more has to come off, but that should not be too hard to do even with the final hard timber. I have noticed that camera can often pick up defects that the human eye glosses over!

    P1070065 (Medium).JPG

    The back section bandsawn to get an idea:

    P1070066 (Medium).JPG

    The bed sawn at 20į for a bevel up.

    P1070068 (Medium).JPG

    Quite a bit of jostling to go yet to see where to cut the mouth and one thing it will do is cut the blind mortice for the handle before I shape the rear infill. It will be much easier.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #118
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    Lawrencetown, NS, Canada
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    Good to see some progress. That's going to be a brute - so I Dub thee, "The Brute". How's that?

    Steve

  15. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheets View Post
    Good to see some progress. That's going to be a brute - so I Dub thee, "The Brute". How's that?

    Steve
    Brute, or Brutess,

    Either way heís not coming near my ďBodyĒ

    Paul the shot of the end of the plane, is the soul thickness consistent across the width of the plane.
    Or should I book a optometrist appointment.

    Cheers Matt.

  16. #120
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    Paul, if I were prototyping the brute (which to be fair has the potential to be a rather handsome fellow when scrubbed up - a John Wayne of planes maybe?!), I would need to spend some time deciding just where to put the handle/tote. With this low-angle design (I'm presuming you won't be fitting a screw adjuster), you will need enough room to tap the end of the blade for setting, but you will want the handle far enough forward to give it a good "action". It's really hard to know where the best position will be just by eyeballing the plane. I'd saw or router a shallow slot in the rear rough infill and knock up a handle with a couple of screw-holes in the projecting 'toe' so I could screw it down at various points and test-fit the blade, or a mock-up of the blade. You'll get some idea from hefting it & making mock passes over a bit of wood how much room you can allow without getting the handle too far to the rear & making it awkward to push.

    I hadn't realised you were doing a low-angle BU job - you probably mentioned it earlier & I've missed or forgotten it & already said how you intend cutting the mouth & blade-bed. You really do like a challenge, don't you! Cutting a low-angle mouth in a solid sole with hand tools isn't impossible, but I reckon it would be exceedingly difficult. I've not attempted it, so can't speak from experience, but I do know you can't get even the thinnest of files through flat on the the bed for a 15 degree bed angle unless you open the mouth way beyond reasonable. They often tout it as a great virtue, but methinks the reason manufacturers put adjustable toe-pieces on their low-angle jobs with cast bodies has more to do with this problem than giving users something extra to play with.

    I saw a thread on a UK forum where a bloke did a low-angle mouth in a solid sole with a milling machine without too much bother. Do you have a decent mill at your workplace with an operator who is susceptible to small inducements like a slab of beer? Given that the organisers have re-defined slightly more relaxed "rules" about external help ( ), I'm sure the judges wouldn't treat you too harshly for calling in the heavy artillery at such a crucial stage of the battle - I wouldn't knock more than 50% off your point score, anyway......

    Cheers,
    IW

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