Thread: Tips, Techniques and Theory
15th June 2021, 01:14 PM #136
You are spot on with your suggestion it's more difficult to over-stuff than keep the woodwork flush with the insides! I'd like to let you think I just bash 'em out nonchalantly, but honesty compels me to admit it's one of the more difficult parts of the build. The fit has to be very close as even tiny gaps between metal & wood stand out like the proverbial dogs' bits. I'm getting better at it, it's really just a matter of accurate layout & working ultra-carefully to your lines, but with these darned curved sides, the stuffing won't fit 'til it fits. When you attempt a trial fit, the inside is obscured & you can't see where it needs a bit more pared away. The way I find them is by pressing the wood down carefully over where it needs to be, then looking for any scraped or burnished areas indicating the high spots. With a few earlier ones, I was too impatient & pared wood away from the wrong places & ended up having to start over! Making a mock-up from scrap before you start chopping up a chunk of valuable wood is a very good move & helps you to iron out the potential pitfalls.
I've followed the "challenge" builds pretty closely & have noticed two challengers have overstuffed their front buns, but not the rear wood. The front bun is usually a bit easier to do (well it's smaller, so less wood to pare ) so it's a good place to start if you want to try the technique. Both the buns I've noticed are very neatly done, so Brownie points will be accordingly awarded, no doubt.
BTW, I don't recall seeing other than smoother-sized planes over-stuffed on oldies, all of the old panel planes & jointers I've seen were "understuffed", if that's a term. There may well be modern makers who've done it, & I dips me lid to 'em, cos all that extra joint along the sides would add to the difficulty of getting the fit required!
On the subject of future pain - I'm not sure if & when I will get over my current shoulder problems, I can't even get a satisfactory diagnosis, let alone a suggested cure, so if there are any more planes coming out of my shed in the short to medium-long term, they will most likely be very small ones! Perhaps I should bite the bullet & invest in a good linisher (& spend the next year learning how to use without doing more damage than good... )
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15th June 2021, 03:09 PM #137
I am not completely convinced that the linisher is the best machine for flattening. The platten is not good enough for the level of accuracy we want. They are good for quick removal of material but it will not be flat. I have used the machine at work, which is a medium level industrial version, not the same as, but similar to this from Hare and Forbes.
H & F Linisher.jpg
It is 415V 3HP and will set you back $1309. Really a surface grinder is what we want and they, for a small one, start at a little over $4000! Even there, the sole would have to be flattened before it is assembled to the sides.
At least you would not have to use that wretched SS material as the clamping relies on magnetism.
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
15th June 2021, 04:55 PM #138
Thanks for another interesting and informative write up Ian.
One day when I have a bit more spare time up my sleeve, I hope to make some more planes, your builds certainly provide the inspiration.Brad.
15th June 2021, 07:06 PM #139
Oddly, I enjoy filing the lever cap. It's not just that brass is a lot easier to file (as long as the files are sharp & not worn), it's much more satisfying seeing a nice shape emerge from what began as a lifeless ump of brass. Cleaning up the dovetails & pins is just pure tedium...
15th June 2021, 07:16 PM #140
I misunderstood what you intended to do. I think you would have to use a very fine belt for your purpose. The linishing belts are often quite coarse. I just checked one of the Forum sponsors Smith and Arrow and they do a belt from 240g to 3000g in a mixed box. Could be the go.
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
15th June 2021, 07:38 PM #141
Strap on Surface Grinder Attachment - Artisan Supplies
But you need a $3000 2" x 72" belt grinder to attach it to. I find I use my belt grinder a lot (it's only a 2 x 48 and I would have bought a different one if i knew then what I know now). I bought it for knife making but I use it for much more than that. It's great for sharpening chisels and plane blades with the jig I made using the body of the Veritas MK 11 sharpening jig, as shown in my plane build thread. Best pencil sharpener ever.We should not judge people by their peak of excellence; but by the distance they have traveled from the point where they started.
Henry Ward Beecher
15th June 2021, 08:45 PM #142
People tend to choose finer grits for grinding than they should - I certainly did at first. Finer grits are not for bulk removal, they clog quicker & cause way too much heating. Your average grey grinding wheel is 60 grit and even these need constant cleaning to keep cutting cleanly...
16th June 2021, 07:18 PM #143
14 days, you have only 14 days left!!!!!
Thatís only 336 hours remaining, what are you doing.
Get a move on(Yes Iím included).
Come on get going
Omg panic panic panic.
Judges like red wine just saying.
If youíre unsure what Iím blabbing on about,
Nothing for you too see hear, move on.
Have a lovely day Bob an Matt.[emoji7][emoji7]
21st May 2022, 05:43 PM #144
Wasnít sure where to post this, so Iíll put it here.
Bruce Neville, in the UK, has released this book, heís saying itís the first of itís kind, I think our IanW might have beaten him to that title, but anyway here is a link to his plane making book. I havenít read it, and wonít be buying it. Just posting for your interest.
21st May 2022, 06:12 PM #145
21st May 2022, 06:49 PM #146
Good spotting Brad. By the looks of the plane on the cover, the author seems to have a fair idea of what he's about, so I expect it'll be a good guide, but fifty quid for a paperback book?! I guess this old phart is waaay out of date & that's the going rate for a small print-run book these days.
I suspect it will be oriented towards Brits & Continentals who can buy a much wider range of raw materials more easily than we can down here. What actually got me started writing my "manual" was wanting to help save other people time finding & selecting material & tools based on what's fairly easy to get hold of locally. When I first thought about making a plane (last millenium!) I had no idea where to go to get the brass & steel, and less idea about the different brass alloys & what they are good for, so I spent a lot of time chasing up information. With limited success I might add, the interweb was barely underway at the time and there was certainly not as much stuff as there is now, thanks to forums & u-tube etc. If my 'manual' only helps people sort out where to start it will have achieved what I set out to do. Like my plane-making, once I started it sorta took off & became a much bigger thing than I'd intended. I probably tried to cover too much in the end.
Several people have suggested turning it into a "proper" book, but that'd be a whole lot more work, I'd need to improve many of the pics & spend a lot of time editing & expanding some of it. So I've decided to leave it as a free-to-air thing & hope those who have it find some use in it....
21st May 2022, 07:03 PM #147
Fair go to the bloke; heís seen a gap in the market and a publisher has thrown in a bid but Bruceís infill looksÖ well, a bit too nasty to be something to aspire to make at that price. The lever cap boss and its mating screw stick out way too far; whatís with the weird knob thing on the blade and the front bun looks like itís trying to avoid being seen in the company of the sidesÖ.
Iíll stick with dreaming that one day I too can design and execute an object díart worthy of sitting next to one of Ianís.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
21st May 2022, 07:21 PM #148
Awww, you're a bit tough on the poor chap Chief - it doesn't look that bad to my eyes. The side curves are a bit tentative would be my main criticism, he could've made them more explicit. Maybe you're swayed by the wan-looking wood? I presume it's box, which seems to be very popular with plane-making Brits, probably because Bill Carter always talks it up. Somehow, pale woods just don't look right to me, against the brass, Dark woods look way better, I reckon.
Done.jpg Horn & grip mod b.jpg
Anyway, if I happened to stumble on a remaindered copy or something I'd certainly like to have a read, the pic on the front shows him taking the waste out of the D/Ts by a method that looks a bit unusual to me - I'd like to know more...
21st May 2022, 07:52 PM #149
He has a website showing off several of his handmade planes; some are ok looking (the 15Ē panel plane for one) but there are a couple that I think would be rather uncomfortable to use. He doesnít seem to like cap irons very much either. He also has his own design of removable brass lever cap; Iím sure Iíve seen something like it before somewhereÖ.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
21st May 2022, 11:52 PM #150
I have been watching his posts on Instagram for a while now, his dovetails look a bit neater these days, back when our plane challenge was in full swing, the planes he was turning out had gaps where they werenít peened closed fully.
he seems to use on a lot of his planes, something to age the brass to give it a patina look, I think he might do it to hide or take attention off flaws in his work.
But he does seem to be selling a lot of planesÖÖ
and now books ÖBrad.
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