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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

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    Frankly you can buy all sorts of "snake oil" and other assorted, stuff that "cures", "fixes", "removes" and "rids" rot, but frankly this is a bunch of crap.

    There isn't a cure in a can nor any magic goo in a tube going to solve a rot problem. You have to cut it out, replace any missing material and seal down the area good, so it doesn't come back.

    You don't need special mixtures of anything, just plane old carpentry skills and some regular epoxy. The wood cutting skills replace what you had to remove (call it a Dutchman, scab, whatever) and the epoxy seals the area, so moisture can't provide nourishment to promote more rot.

    The nice thing about epoxy is you can kill two birds with one stone and bond the repair piece(s) in with it, which effectively seals the area, at the same time.

    So, if you have more money and time to burn, pickup some magic rot killer in a jar and follow the directions or do just as a brain surgeon would with a tumor, cut it out, so you can be sure it's not going to come back to haunt you again.

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    53
    Posts
    25

    Default

    par and boatkmik... thank you for some straight-down-the-line advice!
    (Damn that snake oil is tempting to try though... it sounds so easy!!)

    And I have few carpentry skills. Really.

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    You really can't blame them for trying (snake oil). It's sort of like the latest diet, it doesn't really have to work to make money at it.

    I can't tell you how many transoms I've opened up for a core replacement, just to see a pool of cured goo at the bottom of the boat, where the "get rot" or other latest magic had been poured into the cracks at the top of the transom and just ran right through, because gravity always pulls in the same direction. I usually have to knock the lump out with a power chisel.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,787

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigCanberra View Post

    And I have few carpentry skills. Really.

    By the time you've cut out & replaced the rotten bits, you will have more.

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    53
    Posts
    25

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    he he. Oh yay! Um, am I better off doing this, or replacing the ply sheet? I've heard no where in Canberra stocks ply. What's the bigger job, given I have to take the keel tape off anyway, because of the seperation from the keel.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,

    Have a look at the boat repair section here
    http://www.storerboatplans.com/Faq/faqindex.html

    Replacing a piece or a sheet really depends on the location and amount of the damage.

    Sometimes you can just cut out a little bit (see the above link) and sometimes it just is easier to replace a whole sheet.

    Use the search function on this forum (advanced search) to look for POSTS that discuss
    plywood canberra

    MIK

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    53
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Thread necromancy time. Having moved out on my own, got divorced and settled down again.. It's time to keep playing the the Heron!

    It's been so long that I had to read over my old posts. On Sunday, a mate and I took the varnish off the deck because it had cracks all through it, and I think a nice deck really shows off a timber boat and I wanted it to look good. Now I only have to rip at the keel, and I'll be in a position to fully evaluate the boat and start putting things back together. It's only been two years. What?

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Yarraville
    Age
    56
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Gidday, just reading you post - I'm in the same process with my Heron, hope it doesn't take 2 years though! I've almost finished the top half and are about to tackle the underside. Check my blog for some pics:
    Heron Dinghy Restoration

    cheers

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    53
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Right. So. Because of where some of the rot is, I'm soaking Everdure into it. I know, this isn't the preferred approach, but I'm simply not going to take the entire hull apart and replace two ribs at each buoyancy tank. Not happening! What will happen is removal of all the rot, soaking in epoxy and then sheath the underside of the hull.

    All the glass tape is off - man, that did not give up easy. It was pretty cool to see the rows of brass screws under it. Rot dug away. Epoxy in (it's cool in Canberra at the moment, so I'm allowing an entire week to cure). Then it will be time to bog and patch the missing areas of the hull and cover it in fine glass cloth.

    Any stupid mistakes in all of that?

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    53
    Posts
    25

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    glrose, I've heard of Syd's Tub. Whereabouts are you?

    Yours looks like it was fortunately better maintained than mine - and the story is a sentimental read too.

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Yarraville
    Age
    56
    Posts
    14

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    I'm in Yarraville now (VIC), but the boat used to be in Noble Park and was sailed around Carrum in Port Phillip Bay years ago. I was lucky that it was kept undercover for all of it's life! Plan is to have it in the water this summer - what about yours??

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    53
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Same plan. And teach my other half to sail in it.

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