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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stevebaby View Post
    I've just found a couple of other uses for Sika.

    I used it to repair the soles of my hiking boots.

    it worked perfectly to repair my (expensive) bike saddle

    There was just enough left to patch a hole in the guttering (temporarily).
    Howdy Steve,

    You summed it up best yourself

    There's a boat inside me trying to get out.
    MIK

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    2

    Default

    May I point out that Carvel planked boats are not just caulked to seal the hull but also to tension the hull. Caulking plays a vital part in the strength of a wooden hull which modern adhesive/sealants can't replicate. I, like Viking have found Sikaflex to be useless bellow the water line and not much better above. Even on a new build with moisture controlled wood being used, the longevity of Sika can not be relied on (even after using the product to specifications).

    For Carvel planked boats caulking with cotton or oakum is best closely followed by splines. To pay a large boat seam after caulking bellow the waterline, I would recommend a mixture of black tar varnish, cement, boiled linseed oil, japan driers. To give the proportions would mean I would have to kill you Red lead putty will be more than adequate if this is all you can get.

    PuFF

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    central coast
    Age
    59
    Posts
    46

    Default old school

    hi every body the cranky buggers back
    old tryed and tested this works the traditional way and lasts. good to see some good advice coming from other members.i use anti foul and linseed oil putty mixed together for the seams after chaulking. stops the putty bugs and my mate adam from a brisbane waters marina uses a product that they use on the timber ships at the sydney maritime museum its called b52
    ok happy caulking

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