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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Tin Can Bay Qld
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    62

    Default Advice on Norglass Solvent

    My slow progress on renovating/restoring an old runabout is set to accelerate because in about a month I have to turn my project upright, buy a new trailer to put it on and then take it 250km to a new (coastal) home.
    Ideally I would like to have the bottom of the boat painted so that once it's on the trailer it won't need to be removed to complete the topsides and deck. I think I have enough time to complete the job with a couple of coats of both Norglass Weatherfast Undercoat and Weatherfast Premium Enamel Gloss.
    In researching these products I note that clean up is with Weatherfast Brushing Thinners which according to it's Material Safety Data Sheet is pretty nasty and hazardous stuff.
    Would love to hear from other users what real life experiences were like with this product and any tips or techniques when using this solvent for clean up.

    Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    107

    Default

    I used the two-pack version of Norglass (Northane) on my ply sailboat and got a result like this. The stuff was noxious to use and to clean. I ended up just throwing everything out once I'd finished each coat.




    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    I've also used Norglass Weatherfast since. You can use turpentine to thin and clean up Weatherfast - you don't have to stick to proprietary thinners on a 1 part polyurethane paint. Just make sure you're using pure gum turps, not mineral. It's higher quality for thinning purposes and won't evaporate so fast and hence more working time.

    I find Weatherfast really good - it's my Go-To paint for a boat on a trailer. Good gloss, good coverage, not to difficult to apply well. It can orange-peel and leave brush marks unless you roll/tip. Unless you're rolling in cash, I'd probably get turps instead of their thinners as the difference will be minor on their 1 part paint.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Thanks Asrainox
    It was your thread and other comments by PAR that steered me towards using 1 part polyurethane paint and Norglass in particular. If I get a result half as good yours I will be more than happy !
    I don't see myself needing to thin the paint at all (Brisbane winter weather is always mild and dry for painting) but clean up of brushes etc was concerning me. I am well used to using turps as a solvent as I have just completed painting the house I am selling. Your comments are most useful to me.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    107

    Default

    I found with Weatherfast that a 5 minute soak in turps after using, followed by a washout with detergent and water was plenty to keep brushes in good nick through the 3 priming and 3 top-coats I put onto an 11 foot ply dinghy I recently re-painted.

    IMG_1500.jpg

    The forum does a small resize, but you get the idea.

    I tend to buy crappy foam rollers (the 1 buck a pop kind) from the big green warehouse and put the paint down liberally with them, followed up by a light brush-stroke in the vertical direction (keel to sheer) to blend it all evenly. This is the "Roll and Tip" approach, and gives a smoother, more even, and more attractive finish over all than plain brushing, or plain rolling. Better gloss too. Is quicker than brushing, but slower than rolling alone. I don't bother cleaning the rollers as they're so cheap - I just turf them.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
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    62

    Default

    Thanks again Asrainox
    Your advice has confirmed my game plan.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    You're going to do fine. In the last decade, huge advances in paints have made it possible to look like a pro, with just reasonable prep and following the instructions on the can.

    Prep is the name of the game and this is 90% of a paint job. The remaining 10% is actual brush or roller in hand time, so work the surface as best as you can, so these wonderful new paints, can lay down nice and show off all your efforts.

    Look up the "roll and tip" method, there's lots of information on this technique.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
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    Default

    Thanks PAR
    I know you are not a fan but I start with a pretty well prepared surface because I had previously (ashamed to say a couple of years ago) applied and rubbed back a couple of coats of Bote-Cote epoxy on the bottom of the boat. As my project was a part keel repair with new timber and ply on an old hull restoration I wanted the epoxy coat to "amalgamate" the new and old surfaces.

    I have made a start with the painting and have now applied two coats of Weatherfast Pri-Coat undercoat by brush to get a real feel for the paint. The epoxy did give me a good sound surface and I had to do only a light sanding between these two coats. The results look pretty good with only a few brush marks that I will need to take care of.
    I am not going to be precious about getting a perfect finish (as it is only the bottom of the boat) but if I were to fill some old "dings" at this stage before the next coat of undercoat what would I use ?
    Last edited by bagman; 7th May 2013 at 11:27 PM. Reason: fix spelling

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    If it were me and I had the epoxy lying around, I'd be inclined to use epoxy with fine fairing mix of some sort (microballoons/colloidal silica?) to fill any major dings. Relatively waterproof and pretty easy to sand with the right filler.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Hi Asrainox
    I only ever had one major ding on my boat and it was a beauty ! After buying what looked like an old boat that just needed painting I was poking around with a srewdriver one day and pushed a large hole in a rotten section of the keel just back from the bow. Somebody must have hit something hard and cracked/gouged the keel (and then kept using the boat) so that water got deep into the keel timber which started to rot.
    Before removing all of the rot I built up the good part of the keel and plywood skin from the inside and then tipped the boat to properly remove the rotten parts of the keel and the ply skin. These photos show a truncated view of the repar.100_0189.jpg100_0192.jpg100_0242.jpg

    100_0247.jpg

    I also filled a few minor dings and all screw holes with thickened bote-cote at the time and the blemishes that have now appeared after the first two coats of undercoat I would now describe as "character" marks or "laugh lines".
    Cheers
    Bagman

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    107

    Default

    Perfect is the enemy of good, as someone once told me. I like a few marks that show use. Nice repair job, btw. looks neat

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