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1st September 2015, 11:03 PM #1New Member
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Advice on repairing Sampson posts - Everdure/resin?
Hi All
I have removed the aft corner Sampson posts from my old 26" timber cruiser as I noticed that the stainless steel bolts were loose. Sure enough the heads cracked off the bolts so I've bought nice new stainless kit to replace these fasteners. I'm keen to give the actual posts a birthday and was planning to treat them with the full 5 coats of Everdure and then paint with a couple of coats of white enamel. They are very heavy and still feel solid and strong.
My questions are:
1) Am I on the right track?
2) We have had recent rain...how long must I leave the posts to dry before I can apply the Everdure...days or weeks?
3) Should I use a resin or similar to fill in some of the cracks?
4) I'm keen to polish the top plates (presumably brass?)...what's the best approach for this?
Please refer to the attached image.
I'm a new boater so apologies for the basic questions and any advice is appreciated.
Thank you
Lynton
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3rd September 2015, 01:09 PM #2
Have you reviewed my reply to this question on the other forum? My answer isn't going to change and if it was me I'd just make a couple of new posts, as they look quite simple to shape and there's very little you can do to "fix" those puppies.
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3rd September 2015, 01:35 PM #3
Hi Lynton,
I would suggest:
- Remove all the metal bits
- Wire brush thoroughly to get back to sound timber. Use a hand brush (not power) with steel bristles.
- If the bolt holes are loose, drill out for bigger bolts.
- Start with a good penetrating coat of epoxy. Depending on the brand this varies. For instance Bote Cote uses TPRDA for this penetrating coat. West System I think is different. Keep brushing it on - it will soak up quite a lot.
- Ensure the bolt holes are well soaked too. Filling the screw holes for the top plates is good. Drill them out again later.
- While this coat is soft build up with thickened epoxy to fill the cracks.
- Sand to shape and paint.
The brass plates don't look too bad. They will probably come good with brasso. If not try wet/dry paper up to about 2000 grit then brasso.
Enjoy,
Mark
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3rd September 2015, 02:49 PM #4
Having said all that, PAR's advice on the other forum will certainly give a more sound result
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3rd September 2015, 04:21 PM #5
Any penetrating epoxy on timbers of that size will do little. It will not seal the wood, it will not stop the checking, it will not fill in the checking. The only advantages a penetrating epoxy will add are very slightly better paint or top coat adhesion and slowing moisture gain/lose to a modest degree. Considering the cost and effort related to applying the epoxy, just for a couple of percent better adhesion, well it's just not economical, unless you're looking to keep original pieces in a restoration.
Those checks are caused by internal stresses, within the timber. As environmental conditions change, these stresses change, so the checks open and close with moisture content. Hardwoods are worse at this than softwoods as a rule, but all woods do it, just look at any telephone pole you might see.
If the checks are filled, the checks will still open and close with environmental changes, so a hard product, such as plastic (epoxy for example) will just get spit out. You can use a soft filler and old solid wooden masts around the world use a rosin that fills the gap, but is soft enough to not get spit out if the wood contracts a bit. The checks will still be there, just mostly filled with wax (literally). If this is the look you like, you can make up some rosin and possibly buy it, though I don't know anyone that still sells it. There are several "formulations" in regard to rosins, some are stainable, others not.
If you're looking to restore the posts, as new or close to such, you'll need to make up some new posts. To prevent the new ones from checking like that, laminate them up from stock, not thicker than 1", epoxied (or other true waterproof glue) together to make up the physical dimensions.
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