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Thread: Bote Cote.
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17th May 2010, 10:14 PM #16
Yep, Tex on my personal stuff I use 100 - 120 on primer and usually no more then 180 on top coats, though every once and a while I'll use 220. Film thickness will catch all but the biggest sanding sanding scratches and you can buff most anything to a beautiful finish is you're careful.
AJ, I think he's talking paint, but both paint and epoxy can come in several mixing ratios. Of the three different brands of epoxy I use, I have 5 ratios between them for all the hardner/resin combinations..
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18th May 2010, 12:44 AM #17
Just to finish grit discussion. Which could go on forever I think. LOL.
I notice PAR is in America.
He may well be referring to product I have never seen or had the oportunity to deal with.
I had a quick look at some of my containers today and there was no mention at all about the grit size. None.
So as I have been happy with my usage and I have never had a painting problem, I am happy to stick with what has worked for me in the past.
TEXX, I have done some floor refinishing, in rebuilding old houses. My old machine is a converted floor polisher which now takes velcro disks, I also use mainly 120 grit on this little machine.
The result is terrific. You are correct in that. Perhaps it is in the finish product. ?
The only 1 to 1 epoxy I know of here in Tas is called Craft Epoxy. It is available at ordinary hardware stores and is only a gloss top coat finish.
Could this be what, the original question referred to.
It is not suitable for any other purpose than craft work.
I use R180, which is 5 to 1. Also Bote Coat which is 2 to 1.
These are true marine epoxies.
Cheers All. Good Discussion.
Paul.I FISH THEREFORE I AM.
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18th May 2010, 07:50 AM #18
I think if you'll look at the technical data sheets associated with the products you use, they will have grit recommendations and film thickness guidelines. I'm looking at a new LPU spec sheet right now (they want me to test some). The grit and film thicknesses are right on for what it is (a 2 part, cyanoacrylate activated, linear polyurethane coating). It's just as God awful expensive (more so actually at $350 a gallon), but it's physical properties appear to be a fair bit better then the usual suspects (Sterling, AwlGrip, Perfection, etc.) in this field. Again, it appears they've combined the reparability of automotive finishes with the durability of the marine LPU's. We'll see.
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24th May 2010, 11:00 PM #19New Member
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Thanks for the guidance guys. I sanded back the Bote Cote epoxy with 220. It took out the roughness and I left my neighbour to finish with a single part polyurethane. As it was my neighbours laundry bench and not in direct sunlight I didn't sand back to a glass finish.
The Bote Cote I have is 1:1. See attached photo (hopefully).
Now seeking advice on Tung Oil in finishing section.
Thanks Denis Mexted.
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25th May 2010, 11:51 AM #20
Tung oil would be used on raw wood, not epoxy coated wood. The oil finishes (tung, linseed, etc.) have very little protective power, both in UV filtration and waterproofing. In most climates, you will also need to apply oil coatings several times a year to keep the finish in good shape.
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25th May 2010, 09:29 PM #21
Howdy,
I was wondering about the 1:1 ratio too. But it is the Pox-E-Glue from the label pic above which is a pregelled 1:1 mix.
Probably best for hobby use and can be used for boats with care. The regular 2:1 resin that you add different powders to make it suitable for gluing or weak but easy to sand is generally better for boatbuilding in terms of strength and adaptability.
The pox e glue is ok for general woodworking or small fix up jobs.
Best wishes
Michael
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25th May 2010, 11:28 PM #22New Member
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PAR- I've joined two threads here. I've got the Bote Cote question sorted and I found all the inputs interesting and educational. Thanks!!! The Tung Oil question was one I'd asked in the Finishing Forum, titled Tung Oil. Still looking for guidance here.
Thanks to all. Texmex.
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