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Thread: Building a Waller TS540
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16th February 2009, 03:10 PM #16
Honkers I noticed some discussion in another thread about the when's and when not's of epoxying. For what it's worth on this job I epoxied each hull panel on the inside and glued it down wet onto the stringers, so that the bulk of the hull interior was pre-coated. I expected to have to sand all of that before re-coating anyway, and have just had to be careful to sand right up to the bulkheads etc before filleting. This has not been hard, and rolling a whole chine on saw horses before assembly was certainly quicker than rolling again in the boat. The fillets came next, then sanding them, then recoating all of it. Re-coating the fillets also improves their texture or surface quality. I appreciate your interest Honkers.
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19th February 2009, 05:15 PM #17
This photo of the v berth area shows the height off the bilge of the berth panels (they will sit on the bottom horizontal of the bulkheads). Some of these will have storage lockers with lids, but I'm considering having the forard most ones as buoyancy chambers.
The question is, is it advisable to seal closed cell foam in them (possibly with a ventable hole), or does that create a series of problems by trapping humidity in there?
There will be quite a bit of reserve buoyancy around the hull in the form of closed lockers, but I know there are a few firm opinions on this forum about the pros and cons of foam.
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19th February 2009, 07:33 PM #18Senior Member
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I'm still learning about all this so forgive me for asking what may be a dumb question...
You don't seem to have limber holes in any of the frames. Will the bilge area be completely sealed and water tight (I guess that would make it a bouyancy tank.. not a bilge)?
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19th February 2009, 07:48 PM #19
Yes, I wondered about that too when I first saw the plans. The cockpit is self-draining and the companionway hatch is above the 'bridge' deck or cross deck height, so the designer has not made any provision for water moving around below. Water can't just pour into the cabin like it can on most Hartly's because of that...but then it's a bit more difficult to climb into! In a sealed boat like this I can't see that limber holes would achieve anything much at all. If any real amount of water gets below in a knockdown, or big wave, its a baling and beaching job anyway. Hence my desire for a few sealed compartments- and possibly foam.
Not a dumb question at all...and this is my first build so I plead at least equal ignorance.
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23rd February 2009, 02:57 PM #20
Cabin sides placed temporarily to set up the curve of the roof beam hangers, in preparation for fitting the hatch beam. A brace is put between the hangers to establish the side curvature which maintains the panel's angle in relation to the deck throughout its length. It also establishes the exact width of the hatch beam and the angles of its joints.
I'm hoping to cut a rebate on the inside of these panels to set the window acrylic flush with the inside edge. I can then use ply strips to keep the window in place with goo, instead of running hundreds of ugly bolts through the window and into the cab. I don't suppose anyone wants to advise me of the merits of this?
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24th February 2009, 06:40 PM #21Deceased
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i have no idea on this but my only concern would be if you need to replace one of the windows, it may be a big job, is there any way of fitting them from the inside with screws ?
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25th February 2009, 08:42 AM #22
The cabin sides are 9mm, so it would be possible to do that. I thought I'd make ply edge strips and screw those over the acrylic on the inside, bedding sealant under them and under the acrylic. But you are right, replacing them would not be much fun, if only because of the bulkhead that will end up adjacent, towards the front of the window- if I shape them as designed. Replacement will involve bending the new sheet to feed into a slot between the cabin side and the bulkhead column.
From what I can see most people just seem to have the acrylic on the outside- but I just want to avoid the bolts
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25th February 2009, 09:27 AM #23Senior Member
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My opinion only, but I reckon that from the inside - windows look best in a frame. What if you were to build a coaming with nice radiused corners which would screw over the acrylic. Make them fairly chunky so they become a feature in themselves, maybe incorporate rods to hold shades?
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25th February 2009, 01:34 PM #24
Howdy,
Windows are an important part for the safety of the vessel. I would recommend double checking with the designer about any alternative attachment method.
Best wishes
MIK
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25th February 2009, 01:37 PM #25
Howdy,
Regarding Limber holes .. yes ... they are a good idea, but usually there are places you don't want them either - sometimes it is better that dry storage areas don't have them for example - though dry storage hanging space can benefit. Not to mention buoyancy areas.
MIK
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25th February 2009, 03:30 PM #26
Darce, thanks for the input- what you describe is pretty much what I had in mind with the ply frame- say 25mm wide and 9mm thick with radiused edges and rounded corners, although the way you put it suggests using an attractive timber, and that's a good thought too.
That's helpful Mik, I do generally keep to the plan, and check with Mike if I want to deviate, and you are right to remind me that the window is a structural and functional part of the design and not just a feature.
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2nd March 2009, 11:24 AM #27
Started decking the cockpit. The seats are broad- a really good place to hang out- and the curve is very comfy on the back of the knees.
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2nd March 2009, 11:26 AM #28
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2nd March 2009, 11:28 AM #29
Cabin work proceeds too.
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2nd March 2009, 06:32 PM #30Deceased
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the seats look amazing with that curve how did you do it ?
it looks like you have made a lot of progress this week, and shes coming along nicely, have you decided on the windows yet?
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