Thread: Cadet MK2

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

Andrew,

Even though Marine Timbers aren't way out west,phone them and get them to pop it on a delivery truck.

I get my stuff from BoatCraft south of Brisbane, it arrives overnight and the cost of delivery is $8.00, a LOT less than the cost of driving to pick it up!

Don't be afraid to get stuff delivered!

Cheers,

P

Thanks for that prompting, what size should I get ?

Andrew

Howdy,

The TPRDA can be used up to about 20 percent from memory - so maybe 500mls or a litre.

It is not very expensive. They have the epoxy, glue powder additive, glass tape, pumps, low density filler powder (for easy sanding when filling holes or dents.

Did I mention that you should get a copy of the Bote Cote book - cheap and lots of useful info.

Best Regards
Michael

Well it was suggested that I take off the brass rubbing strips and replace them with lighter ones.

I'm glad I did because there are a few spots where the screws had let some water in etc and the wood has started to rot/go furry. Also out of curiosity I weighed them and it added up to almost 2kg of brass on the bottom.:eek:

So I'm about to get the gaboon ply for the deck and I was wondering whether 3mm with the epoxy coats would be strong enough or it would be best to get 4mm to be sure.

Also what would be the best to use for rubbing strips ?

Thanks
Andrew

Howdy,

Do the rules allow 3mm? I would expect them to have 4mm (3/16") as a minimum - so check first.

My feeling is that if the boat is looking like it will be well underweight use 4mm - they will be a little less prone to surface splitting along the grain as the face veneers are thicker. And the gaboon is 25 percent lighter than the next lightest ply anyhow.

Usually the factory sands 4mm on both sides to make 3mm - so the face veneers are quite thin.

As far as the rubbing strips - check the rules. If you don't need them under the rules leave them off. If you don't have to use metal ones make them out of wood - a hardwood like Tassie Oak or other would be fine. Make them the minimum size under the rule - well rounded with ends well tapered down to minimise disturbance to the water flow. If they have to be of metal - make them of aluminium.

If the metal strips have to bend round the stem bend before drilling. If you drill first they will break at the hole.

If metal strip bed them and the fastenings that hold them in sikaflex - it will isolate the dissimilar metals and cuts the risk of galvanic corrosion.

Don't let anyone talk you into using silicone sealer on boats. It buggrs up painting and doesn't really work very well.

Michael

Why I hate silicone - by Michael age 47 1/2

You can't paint it.

You can's sand it.

It doesn't stick well enough to be structural or to stop boat type leaks in its own right

It doesn't stick poorly enough to be easily removed.

When the thinners from paints hit it they spread its unpaintability to nearby areas which it hasn't contacted directly. YOu can the wash and sand to try and get rid of the residue and it just spreads it over the whole area so that the paint bubbles in an intermittent sort of way.

The only place it works is underneath fittings that are bolted or screwed to the boat - but ONLY on boats that will never be painted - even fibreglass boats may be painted one day - so what boats could they be?

Use a polyurethane sealer like sikaflex.

MIK

Disclaimer - if I sound bitter it's because of bitter experience. I worked as a professional boat painter and varnisher over several years - silicone sealant was the #1 reason for having to redo work that we thought was finished.

Well we are up to removing the old varnish with what appears to have a stain mixed in on the inside of the boat.

Other than sanding what are some other ways of removing this as I don't want as mish mash of colours through the new coats.

Thanks

Other than sanding, I'm a great fan of cabinet scrapers, which is a flash word for a bit of tin(steel really) which has been "sharpened".

Hold with two hands and get all the stuff off in a pass or two.

If you need more info get back and I'll try to find a few web references.

Cheers,

P

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

Other than sanding, I'm a great fan of cabinet scrapers, which is a flash word for a bit of tin(steel really) which has been "sharpened".

Hold with two hands and get all the stuff off in a pass or two.

If you need more info get back and I'll try to find a few web references.

Cheers,

P

Ah midge - I disagree - this doesn't happen often - so we can enjoy the novelty of it!!!

Plywood is made up of such thin veneers that the staining will go through the full thickness of the surface veneer. Scraping will make little or no difference. If it was a solid teak drawer fascia - I would be with Midge - but for ply - nah.

You can sometimes get a bit out with some oxalic acid solution. Don't make it too strong and rinse the area well - but it won't disappear. Oxalic is an acid so if you make it too strong it will weaken the wood fibres.

The only way to get it to disappear is to replace the panel )

So Meerkat - have a bit of a play but you have to know in your water that it won't disappear.

She is an old boat - and she will be a FAST old boat - but you can't make her new again without replacing more of her.

I need to tell you about boatbuilder's eye too. We all get used to eyeballing our projects from a distance of 6 inches. We know every nook and cranny, every mistake and defect. BUT NO ONE ELSE WILL EVER SEE THEM. They will be so impressed at the end result that they will never look over the whole surface from 6 inches away. You have to do a few projects before you realise just how oversensitive we all get to each one.

Let's just say she has a lovely patina for an old boat.

MIK

he he.... fight! fight! fight!!

In my defence I did read varnish "with what appears to be stain mixed in".

I have no qualms removing the varnish as I described.

If the stain is indeed under the varnish, and it's not "mixed in" Mik is absolutely correct. :eek: What a fizzer of an argument that was!

Cheers,

P

Damn, just when I was looking forward to a good stoush, you fellas kiss and make up. And remember Monsieur Midge, that the best arguments happen when everyone is right, but they are all proceeding on a misunderstanding concerning the underlying facts. If that wasn't the case, lawyers would be out of a job!

Originally Posted by Boatmik

I need to tell you about boatbuilder's eye too. We all get used to eyeballing our projects from a distance of 6 inches. We know every nook and cranny, every mistake and defect. BUT NO ONE ELSE WILL EVER SEE THEM. They will be so impressed at the end result that they will never look over the whole surface from 6 inches away. You have to do a few projects before you realise just how oversensitive we all get to each one.

MIK you are 100% correct. I had one of these revelations the other day when I was trying so hard to get it right, I lost it. The dummy flew. The teddy was tossed :eek:

I stormed out of the dog house (my workshop), went and had a cool down and realised that I was trying to achieve perfection. Something that I could never get. I walked back in clear headed and thankful for the experience.

It's always good to have someone to tap you on the shoulder and remind you of these things. Sonething that you and midge have done for me several times during this project. Thanks guys.

I thought i'd spray the last coat of gloss on the hull instead of rolling it. The problem is that it didn't come out too glossy at all.

I thought it may have been because I was a little light on with the coat or not thin enough, any ideas ?

Thanks

Originally Posted by meerkat

I thought it may have been because I was a little light on with the coat or not thin enough, any ideas ?

Or thinned too much, or the spray was too fine (too much pressure?) drying the mist on the way.....

As a definitely non-expert spray painter, I like to have a few practice goes but still manage to muck up the end result!

Did you try mucking round with the volume/air mix to make sure you got a "wet" coat?

Cheers,

P

I practiced and at first it came out in globs which made me think it was wrong so I thinned it a little and made the mist finer.

Maybe I should've left it a bit globby and thinned it a little. What is a good ratio/thinner mix ?

Thanks