Thread: D5 mast timber

John,

Oregon (Douglas Fir) it is also straight and light if you shop around. Try to get a bit with more than 20 growth rings to the inch, but if you can't don't fret it'll probably be OK,

It isn't an Aussie timber but it is readily available and will do the job.

You'll need to tell the people you are buying from that you want it for a mast and it must be CLEAR and straight grained.

Cheers,

P

As a fellow novice who is currently attempting to get his lump of timber for his own mast (Welsford's, Tender Behind), I'll second the oregon suggestion. I'm not in Melbourne so I can only talk about Adelaide, but we've got a couple of wood shops here that, when you tell them you're building a boat, and which bit you're building, they understand what you're talking about. My suggestion is to make a few phone calls, admit total ignorance (less than you have if possible so you can test the advice), and see who gives you good advice that you can understand. Having a chat with a few local builders is a good move too. For example, an experienced builder recently referred me to a shop but with the rider 'as for ??, he's the father and knows boats, his son doesn't'.

You're aware of the advice to laminate two halves together? Makes a stronger mast. Also means you don't have to source such a thick plank.

Our local TAFE has had so many calls about making masts that they're going to run a mast building course later this year. It's not being advertised and is a bit casual so it might be a good move to have a chat with anyone doing boat building courses in your area.

Best of luck with the D5 - they've got a good name.

Richard

Another thought.

I saw this on a yank forum from a bloke who specialises in using second hand timber. Recycled timber is often full of nail holes. His advice was to fill these with BLACK filler. After you varnish it, you can still see the black spots, but they look like little knots in the timber and apparently look quite good. Haven't tried it myself - I'm a 'cover the lot with paint' builder, which you'd understand if you looked at my boat.

A mate of mine is a builder and often finds good timber in places he's pulling apart. The standard joke with him is that when he adds up the costs of building his boat, he'll have made a profit.

Richard

OR you could build it hollow for a real challenge!

Actually using 8 birdsmouthed staves, it's not all that hard, I've built hollow forms down to 2mm wall thickness and have been surprised at the end result.

I'll post more info if anyone is interested.

Cheers,

P
(just love talking about boats eh!!)

I'm with the midge - love talking about boats!

Built my first mast and boom on a sabot at 15. clear oregon - rabbet planed the sail track on split tapered halves and re glued - what a trimmer - had the boat planing in 35 knots - water Fountaining out the plate case and not a murmur from the spars - great fun.

Try it - you may want to re-work if it doesn't do what you want but hey the experience is worth it

clear Oregan can be purchased at A. Lewis in McKinnon (Melbourne), mention it's for a mast, they may suggest alternatives (Red Pine, Cedar?). It won't be cheap. Maybe you could ring a few yacht clubs for advise. King Billy, Huon Pine?

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

(just love talking about boats eh!!)

Wouldnt that be, Ahhhhhrrrrrr??

Al :confused:

[You're aware of the advice to laminate two halves together? Makes a stronger mast. Also means you don't have to source such a thick plank. ]

I'm with Richard. Two planks joined with the grain bookmatched when looking at the ends makes a much stronger mast than a single solid plank. I would suggest a resorcinol glue, it dries black but is gap filling and much cheaper than epoxy. Get hold of an old car innertube from your friendly local tyre place, and cut a strip about an inch wide spirally starting at the valve until you have a piece which is several metres long. Apply glue to both faces of the timber and clamp one end of the mast. Start winding the rubber strip spirally around the timber, stretching it hard as you go until you reach the other end. Hold the rubber onto the wood to stop it from unwinding with one hand while you straighten any bend and then clamp it off with another G clamp. This means that you need two clamps instead of 25 for your 2.5 metre mast. Glue the blanks together BEFORE you shape the outside.
It's hardly worth it for a little mast, but hollowing the blanks before you glue gives a lighter mast which is just as strong.
Graeme

Thanks for the advice everyone.
I'll let you know how it goes.

I think the birdsmouth would be beyond me! The two laminated peices of timber sounds like the go.