Thread: doing something to a TS16

Well, the cases are assembled.
Had to buy more pox to do so.
Pic is pre-glue dry fit, checking lifting tackle fit.
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Dave at Flat Duck commented that it is cold & my pox pumps wouldn't be doing quite the right thing as a result...
As there is always about 5-10% of Part B left when Part A is empty, am inclined to agree.
As I predict I will soon be regularly pumping more than the usual 1/2 - 2 pumps, at around 1 minute
to recharge each pump (due to pox being thick when it is cold), it seems that there is finally a time
saving to be made to making a pox warmer box. Applied assorted wood scraps, utilising a 25W oyster light
fitting which last saw service warming home brew in an old wardrobe in the shed, some 16 years ago.
Still works. Hooray for low-tech.
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Pox bottles sit on a plate of 3-ply approx 60mm above the light bulb. Just nicely warm.
Warm air convects out of lower chamber, around outside of middle plate to the chamber around pox bottles,
then out around gap between bottles & top plate. Trying to extract maximum warmth per KW/H.
Dunno what its efficiency would be. Might pick up another 5-10% by double skinning the top chamber.

1st pump is still a bit stiff (**far** better than it was) due to the actual pump being up in the frigid air.
Thereafter, much more quicker.

Interspersing further work on tidying up the cases with scraping paint off the boat, but mostly
painting the bathroom, toilet & laundry which I kind-of promised to do about 6 months ago....

Pivot bolt & trailing support pin holes drilled.
This is the almost only reason I bought a drill press - can't drill exactly perpendicular holes free-hand to save my life.
Used a post level to keep things aligned as I drilled while holding the case, with board inside.
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9.5mm holes are a snug fit for 3/8" pivot bolt.
A bit too snug for the 3/8" support pins, so I enlarged them to 10mm.
I turned the pins up using a file & the drill as a vertical lathe.
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Also scraped most of the required paint off the inside of the boat between the first & second stringers.
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The black stuff I had earlier encountered would appear to be some sort of glue rather than an all-over undercoating.
It is not at all plastic, even when heated.
The grey-ish main primer doesn't scrape off at all well either. It is sort of powdery, even when heated.
I'm guessing it has a high lead content, or similar. Will be extra careful when sanding it back.

Gazing around the cabin, I really need to take to the whole of the inside with sugar soap.
And anti mould.
Dirty and depressing to look at.
But at least it is visibly progressing now.

Avoiding the unpleasantness inside the cabin...
Hardwood strips added to bottom of cases. Much finishing & shaping still to do.
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Hoping that,
by putting rubber flaps across the slot & leaving the back end open,
and IF things pan out in the cockpit for case height & length,
the rear shaped chute will work as an auto bailer to help drain the cockpit
in case of misadventure or overabundance of airbourne water.
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Forgot I still had this baby.
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After a few minutes sharpening it with a grinding bit in the Dremel, it made -very- short work
of trimming the fore & aft top shelves of the case logs to profile, approximately matching the bottom.
Any differences can be made up with epoxy or further excavation when I install them.

It looks nasty!!
What is it and what does it do?

Hemorrhoid removal . . .

Of course
And a multitude of tasks reserved for those lovers of plastic boats

Thanks. I'll add those ideas to the list of uses...

In the mid-80's some bloke came up with the idea of crossing his angle grinder with his chainsaw.
The progeny was the Arbortech "Woodcarver".

Cuts as fast as a chainsaw, but with an angle grinder's delicate touch.
It sold "naked" for a few months, with an optional (& expensive) guard.
Then it ceased to be available "naked".
Can't imagine why.

The hardened, tempered teeth are nearly impervious to chainsaw files,
so when I killed it on the embedded grit in a second-hand railway sleeper,
i put it away & pretty much forgot about it.

Thanks Alan.
Looks like they're still available. Just ordered one on Ebay. A handy addition to the tool chest methinks.
Mark

Yeah, they're still available and the guard is easy to remove.

Well see I go away for a while and Alan gets out his finest paring tool.

Hows it going mate the progress looks great.

G'day Mike

Slowly.
Had a small surge of progress a week or three ago but have bogged down with other stuff again.
Have bought a length of 80mm x 2.2mm T6 pipe for a main mast.
So long as I reinforce pinch points and limit sail area on it to around 100-120sq.ft, it should be ok.
After mast will probably be set up a bit like Coquina in terms of relative sail area.
Still thunking that one through.

Have purchased & made s/s rubbing strips for under the cases.
Have sanded the bottom bit smooth, ready for final coat of pox.
At which point it occurred to me that I should glass them, and which, due to their 3D-ness,
will be about as much fun as thoroughly cleaning each & every sq cm of surface inside the hull.
So I'm procrastinating about both jobs while trying to beat back the spring garden growth spurt.

How is Coquina getting along ?

cheers
AJ

Been doing other things of late.
Including fiddling with dust extraction/ventilation in the cabin before I start sanding lead paint.
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Started off with just the 150 mm fan on the end of the ducting, but that sort of grew into a cyclone.
The dinky 50W axial transfer fan can't really produce the velocity required to separate fine dust,
so I'm keeping an eye out for a centrifugal fan in the 1/4 - 1/3 HP range.

The inside of the cabin has a 20-something year accumulation of dust/dirt and mould.
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Or rather, had.
Finally overcame my averseness to working whilst scrunched up in small spaces & did the cleaning.
Also removed some more very carefully shaped polystyrene buoyancy.
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Not sure whether to reinstall it later or no.
It is excellent insulation, and I would hope it never gets wet up under the foredeck.
There was no mould behind it.
I suppose that if it does, I'll be looking at a complete strip-out & clean of the cabin anyway...

Anyway, I learnt some important things important about paint in the process.

1. The oil paint lathered over the inside of this cabin is almost impervious to mould.
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Upper panel is cleaned off with sugar soap, lower is not.
No trace of mould penetration into the paint.

2. Oil paint applied over a hard shiny surface doesn't stick, and eventually will be removable with a damp cloth.
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I'm guessing (still) that the black stuff is the glue used in A-bond plywood.
It is hard as, shiny, and doesn't soften under the heat gun.
Paint doesn't stick to it worth a damn.
Only places it was hard to remove were where it was pooled thickly & self-supporting.
Or the glue had been sanded.

3. Paint applied as part of a properly prepared & followed system sticks like baby poo to the proverbial blanket.
Everywhere else in the photos.

Had thought to give the whole insides a bit of a sanding & paint.
Or maybe sand it back to bare & clear coat it.
Now thinking to only do a light sand & seal with pox in those areas with bare wood exposed.
Except the usual leak points around the deck/cabin join.

The other good thing out of this exercise was assurance that the forward 2/3 of the hull is absolutely sound, with no trace of decay whatsoever.
Even the leak points at the front corners of the cabin are good timber, even though the paint was flakey.

Moving slowly but steadily closer to cutting holes in her bottom....

Acrylics (latex) is far better at resisting mold and mildew than alkyds (oils).