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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Rural WA
    Posts
    13

    Default How dry before repairing a Mirror, and are cheap moisture meters useful?

    Hi,

    I have a Mirror dinghy that I am stripping back and refinishing (previous owner = bodge repairs and shiney new paint that was peeling off solid old paint). It is generally very dry and rot free and it has been out the water for at least 18months but when I peeled the paint off I found a few small damp areas and one repair to a hole that water ran out of when stripped back (wish I had stripped it back 18 months ago then let it breathe...)

    As I understand it I need it to be around <10% moisture content before attempting to get paint or epoxy to stick to it, is that correct? I have no idea what 10% looks like vs 20% etc so are any of the cheap moisture meters on ebay any good?

    I am looking at range from really cheap ($12): NEW 4 PIN Digital LCD Display Wood Moisture Meter Damp Detector Tester | eBay
    But I am wondering if those probes are a bit far apart as some of the dampe spots are quite small

    Thru to $37 for inductive Digital NON Destructive Inductive Moisture Meter 4 Modes 0 40°C LED | eBay

    Or do I just need to put a spotlight or heater on each small spot for a day or two and if it looks and feel dry then go for it? The wood is not soft or rotten, just wet in small isolated places

    Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Moisture meters can be helpful on large areas, but for small spots they're about useless. A 100 watt bulb with a shield a few inches away for a few days will easily dry out a small spot, so it can be painted. Once you remove the lamp, let the boat sit for a day so the moisture content in the area, can stabilize with the surrounding areas. An alcohol wash can expedite the process, so can acetone, which is faster. If it was me, depending on how wet it seems, I'd use a heat gun, then I'd draw out as much as I could with a few good soaking of acetone, more heat gun time, then a flood light on it for a few days.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Rural WA
    Posts
    13

    Default

    I would never have thought of the acetone wash, great idea!

    Will try that and the spotlight.

    Thanks!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default A surveyor


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    kallangur qld
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    The light box idea is great to dry a small area around the defect, and yes leave it a couple of days to stabilize, do not get too tied up in 10% -20% moisture content, if it is dry to touch and you have used a heat source to dry the affected area, then the glue /resin will stick .

    clean the defect and ensure that there is no dust or contamination in the area, then apply your resin/glue.



    VK4.

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