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Thread: flipping hull
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10th November 2009, 08:02 PM #1New Member
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flipping hull
Should be ready to turn the hull of the David Payne 7mtr catboat that I am building within the next few weeks. Would appreciate any advice on the best way of doing this without misshap.Am going to get a group together to turn her over. Should I leave in the strong back and turn the whole lot or remove it and just roll her over with the mould frames in place? Will I need to add any extra bracing, as I am a bit concerned about the weight on her gunwales?
Thanks
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10th November 2009, 10:54 PM #2
7 m? Man, that's 21 feet
I'm guessing you won't be doing it on your own then.
When we turned the David Payne 6m Cruiser, which may or may not be heavier (she's a solid lump of boat that one), we had access to a roof crane - we built her at TAFE and the metal workshops were right next door. We lifted her off the frames, rolled her, then lowered her onto a previously prepared dolly. Simple.
My Yellowtail, at 14', was just lifted by two of us and we wondered whether something had gone wrong because it was so easy ... but that's not even a comparison with your boat.
On the other hand, one of the other Yellowtails at TAFE refused to come off the frames at all ... because a screw had been left in
My guess is, and this is only a guess, get the crowd to lift her off the frames ... actually, jack her up and dismantle the frames from underneath is probably better, have tyres or something soft to roll her onto, and then just gently work her over. With enough hands working together and taking it quietly, you shouldn't have any trouble.
Wotcha reckon PAR? Am I nuts?
Richard
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10th November 2009, 11:33 PM #3
Seen pics of this rolling frame approach used on boats up to 30-something feet.
BuildingSpartina
Is it something which might work for you?
cheers
AJ
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11th November 2009, 02:06 AM #4Senior Member
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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-f0K6224ho"]This might be of use[/ame]
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11th November 2009, 10:21 AM #5
Leave the ladder potion of the strong back in place, remove the legs if you must, but I usually roll the whole thing and remove stuff after the deed is done, if there's enough room.
Your boat will be light enough for several well fed friends to lift, roll and place on a new cradle. Leaving the strongback in place will help reinforce the hull shell. If concerned about damage, wrap the contact areas with towels, bits of carpet, etc.
Think of the roll over as a two stage task. First is rolling her to the "balance" point. This balance point is handy as you can wedge the family's toy pooch under the boat and it'll stay put (assuming the dog doesn't fidget too much), while you arrange for the next stage. Lowering her down onto a trailer or cradle, is the second part.
I've used cranes, back hoes, block and tackle and buddies. The easiest is by hand, the least painful is by crane. Yes, of course it's me on the boat, this way the crane operator is always looking at you.
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11th November 2009, 06:55 PM #6New Member
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Thanks for the info.Am going for the lots of buddies with the gentle slow approach.
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11th November 2009, 08:09 PM #7
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12th November 2009, 07:24 AM #8Deceased
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12th November 2009, 08:39 PM #9New Member
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One way or another beer will be part of the process
Am starting to look at the rolling frame method with interest
Doug
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12th November 2009, 09:09 PM #10
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13th November 2009, 12:48 AM #11
The rolling frame isn't as advantageous in the roll over as it is in fairing, 'glassing and painting. Being able to slightly roll the boat to lay 'glass or sand in a down hand position is very handy. Runs and sags in paint can be greatly controlled if the work is horizontal.
If you do a lot building, then a set of "wheel" halves can be useful. I personally think the concept is more work then necessary to roll over a boat one time, but if it will be rolled several times as you fair, 'glass and paint, then worth consideration.
If you look at the right hand picture above in my previous post, you'll see an odd looking frame work above the boat. This is actually a stand that permits the boat to be rotated into three positions, level, canted to port and canted to starboard. In the level position it can have it's LWL marked with a laser level. Canted to each side made fairing much easier.
Left hand picture taken from below, showing the hull canted to port and the level hull getting painted. If you look closely, you'll see some wheels so the whole boat can be moved around.
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14th November 2009, 10:03 AM #12New Member
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Thanks Par
See your point with the rolling frame,a dozen mates should be able to handle the task ok.Estimate the hull to be about 300kgs
Doug
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14th November 2009, 10:32 AM #13
Every time I see the title of this thread, I read 'flipping hull' as a polite version of '$#@%& Hull'
When's the big day Doug? It's an exciting step in a build ... though you also get to discover how bad a job you did of cleaning up inside the hull
Richard
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14th November 2009, 10:27 PM #14Deceased
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15th November 2009, 08:18 AM #15New Member
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Should be ready to go in about 2 weeks time as I am on leave at the moment.
Have had to crawl underneath her a few times for various reasons so I have had a bit of a look at what is ahead.
I gave up trying to keep the inside clean after about a dozen strips so she is pretty messy.
Doug
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