How much past the expiration date, as I've used quite old goo without issues, previously.
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How much past the expiration date, as I've used quite old goo without issues, previously.
I usually buy online. They are prompt with delivery.
Boatcraft Pacific, the home of wooden boat building.
I bought 2 very old tins of epoxy a few years ago at a garage sale. They were in fluid ounces and the picture on the box looked very '60s. I haven't used it for anything critical but it appeared to work well.
Epoxy is pretty stable, though if sold in cans, it will discolor quite a bit, depending on how the inside of the can was treated, if at all. I've used goo that was several years old, both opened and unopened, with no noticeable issues. Admittedly, I wasn't willing to trust it for serious structural work, if only because I usually have plenty on hand, but some of this stuff has seen hard loading without any concerns.
Mine has all gone solid. It goes back to liquid if I heat it.
It is in plastic and is approx 9 years old.
Do you think that would be OK to glass over the hull?
How about attaching the keel?
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I understand the chemistry, but not so much the effects of age on it. If you heat it and let it cool to room temperature, will it get hard again? If so, I wouldn't trust it.
Doesn't sound good to me. In Morgan we have been around zero overnight for the last 3 weeks and mine gets thick, but still (just) pumpable
Most room temperature cure bisphenol A's and F's use some form of non-reactive viscosity modifier (one of a few different chemicals). There must be a shelf life on these, causing the goo to revert to a more natural state (it's pretty vicious stuff without modifiers). This shouldn't affect its physical properties, other than wet out ability and of course spreadability. In this state, you can raise ambient temperatures, to the high 80's, knowing it'll still kickoff at the same rate as it would normally at this elevated temperature, but it'll dramatically thin out, maybe making it able to wetout fabric. In other words, it'll cure about 50% faster, so if it's slow hardener, you might not have much time to work. I'd do a few tests first, before using the hull sheathing as the guinea pig.
What do I look for to determine if it is still ok?
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Looking will not help much, you'll have to mix some up and test it. In other words, will it mix reasonably at room temperature. How about at 80 degrees? How much "pot life" time at this temperature? Will it wetout fabric, can it be brushed or squeegee around? Does it cure in a reasonable time? Is it a hard cure or somewhat less than hard, etc., etc., etc.
So basically if it still sets hard and im a timely manner it is fine?
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So I am going to buy some new boat coat epoxy as my old stuff is too far gone.
I am going to be fibreglassing the hull but also doing lots of glueing and filling etc.
Should I get the standard one or the one for fibreglassing?
Also for the hardener. I am in the Adelaide Hills so hot in summer but pretty cold in winter (this is a slow build duw to time constraints). Should I just get the standard one here too?
Thanks in advance
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I wasn't aware that they did an epoxy for glassing. I checked the website and that product is only for 600gsm cloth or heavier. I don't imagine you will be using cloth that heavy so just their normal epoxy.
You could buy a range of hardeners - slow for say 35 degree plus days, fast for 15 degree and less days and normal for the rest. Personally I use normal for the lot and just work quickly on hot days and wait a lot on cold days.
And then a a bit of each of their fillers. You will use the filleting filler mostly, sanding filler for fairing etc., and maybe the odd bit of hard. It's all in their specs.
Finally another days work on her.
We are surely breaking some kind of record for the slowest build ever!
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Now that the wedding is done hopefully I get a few more days to buildhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cb015ed28d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba676876d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef0dd85d8e.jpg
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