Thread: hot molded boats

Mik,
Where does Norglass Epoxy Wood preserver fit in your graph. I was concidering using it to seal to outboard bolt holes in the transom and the eye bolt in the bow of my paulownia runabout. Am i better off running some west in there with a small brush. I thought about using both. Seal with norglass and then coat with west.

Regards

Lewy.

Originally Posted by uncleremus

Hello,

I also have a MiloCraft boat, My sister bought a summer home and it was in the boathouse, I dont know anything about it but it looks great! Does anyone know where to get info on these boats?

Best Regards,

Michael

I have info on MiloCraft boats if you are still interested.
Dick

Michael,
I also have a MiloCraft boat that I purchased in the '80's and met Milo at that time.
If you still interested in additional info, let me know.
Dick

Howdy Dickstoys,

If the information about Milocraft is not on the net at all it would be very valuable to have it here - people will be able to find it.

Or if you have information that is a bit different from what is on the rest of the net that would be fantastic too.

Best wishes
MIK

I have a 1960 18' Milo-Craft, which I have owned for 30 years. I met with Milo several times over the years at his old shop on South Western Ave in Chicago. Milo's son did a complete restoration of my boat in 1995.
How can I help?
Bob Jersey

CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Solution) is nothing more then regular laminating epoxy that has been dramatically weakened with several solvents, which act as a vehicle to commute it further into the cellular structure of wood.

For many years I've been suggesting it's not particularly effective used alone and recent studies have proven my assumptions (based on my tests) correct.

I've use a home brew of decreased viscosity epoxy for similar reasons and have stopped using "penetrating epoxies" all together.

As Michael said, you want 100% solids epoxy as your moisture vapor barrier, nothing less, which is where all "penetrating epoxies" (like CPES) fail. People think of it as a cure all for rot and other issues, it's not. Thinned epoxy is just part of a system that can stave off moisture ingress or partially return some structural integrality to damaged wood fibers.

No product that I've used can restore rotted wood to a useable material again. I've tested all the major brands and a few home mixtures and zip, nada, none are especially effective at turning wood mush into something useable.

Damaged wood cells have to be replaced, not coated. You can replace the damage with plastics or more wood.

For the transom holes mentioned, the best method (again it's a system thing) is to remove any bad wood, wet out with unthickened epoxy, that is warm (100 F to 120 F degrees), preferably with warm wood (again 100 F to 120 F), but is in the cooling down stage (so it doesn't "out gas"). Then mix up some thickened epoxy, using a structural filler material (micro fibers, silica, etc.) and fill the hole (which should be over size by at least 30% of the previous diameter). Let this cure good then drill for new fasteners. The result is a hole, filled with an inert material, that will not let moisture pass it into the transom.

Check the contents label for the epoxy you're using, it should have 100% solids, or very near so, when cured.

Frankly the selling point of penetrating epoxy is to suggest it "penetrates" better (which it does), therefore making a better seal. The simple fact is that the penetration aspect doesn't matter, just the resistance to passing moisture vapor does, which penetrating epoxies suck at. A 1/16" of an inch coating of straight laminating epoxy of 100% solids will out perform a 1/4" penetration using penetrating epoxy. The bottom line? The amount of penetration doesn't mater, just the ability to resist moisture vapor.

Hi everyone,
We just bought a Milo Craft Mallard and are looking for any information that we can get about the boat annd or the company that built it. It is fully restored and am anxious to learn more about its heritage and any details about them. We are located in the Midwest just above where the states Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri meet. We are right on the Mississippi River so if anyone is in this area pleast get in contact.

Well, I guess I should reply to this person as it's quite likely I'm as close as most of the forum members will ever get and I'm still a couple thousand miles away.

My data base doesn't include your builder, so I'm out of luck, but more information would be helpful, such as year, type of boat, etc.

Second this site, though not exclusively, services the folks "down under", many from Australia and New Zealand.

Closer to your home, there are several sites with the possibility of others with similar craft.

That said, some photos can be helpful, especially if it's already restored. Boat is always welcome and helpful when attempting an ID.

I own three Woodies and one has to go.

I am selling a 1960 18' Milo-Craft that was completely restored by Milo's son in 1995. I am the second owner and I have owned the boat for over 30 years and it has always been garage keep. The motor is a 1960 Evinrude 75HP, that was rebuilt several years ago and has about 5 hours of run time.

The 1995 Eagle Claw trailer is included; tires are in good shape and can be driven anywhere.

The boat will need a very of few coats of varnish and you will need to epoxy (West System) a few pieces of mahogany veneer to the bottom of the hull. I will include enough 4 ' x 6" veneer to complete the small project.

This is a great boat with a lot of room; always draws attention.

Bob Jersey 847-924-5308
[email protected]

Call or email for pics