Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 22 of 22
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    61
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Hi Micheal I "Think" this is the only area.

    When i slipped it in June as it went back in the water it was obvious thats where the water was coming in from straight away.

    to the rear of that separation it is dry and no signs of leaking or water.

    so i am fairly confident thats the only leak.

    I will probably hold off as long as i can before slip & repair. As i know from past experience when repairing one problem several others are often revealed and next thing you know its thousands of dollars and 2 years later

    So i have to make sure i am cashed up first. In fact the timber boat builder i would get to do t job is booked out until May next year. So it could be an ideal time for me to discuss this with him to make a plan.

    I should mention to i was only generalizing what the surveyor suggested. He did suggest to dry it out and repair any rot or fixings before epoxy the bottom.

    Also the boat has been identified as a Custom New TideSong Hartley built approx 1969-70 by Peter Muiler (sydney i think)

    russ

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    61
    Posts
    39

    Default

    P.S

    I have both older and more recent photos of her here http://www.aussiecommunity.com.au/boat/boat.htm

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Apart from the inconvenience of working upside down, there is nothing that would prevent an amateur repair of this being successful if it was well thought through and it was reasonably small in area.

    But do the tap tap tap with the screwdriver handle - you could try now in the water or after a day when you slip it.

    MIK

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    It depends on how the planking is handled. Is it set on lead or shellac or glued? Most often it's not actually glued, but bedded in lead or shellac. In either case, the boat still has to be hauled to fix it, because the source of the leak is on the out side planks.


    If it's bedded then the actual leak will be a considerable distance from the internal leak location. This is because the water must commute along a seam (usually) to the interior entry point.

    There's no good way to deal with this without haul her out. 90% of the time this is caused by movement, which eventually pulls the fasteners. The longer it goes unchecked, the worse it'll get. Unfortunately, double diagonal hulls are one of the most difficult to repair. Local damage is easy enough if isolated to the outer layer of planking, you just replace the affected planks. But, if the problem breaches both layers of planking, you have to remove a large amount of exterior planking, just to expose a small portion of interior planking.

    Most often what's done is the exterior planking is removed, the area puttied up with thickened epoxy and the exterior planking put back on. This really isn't the best repair, but is a common one, considering the cost of the proper repair.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    61
    Posts
    39

    Default

    the other issue is it is also copper sheeted. I have no idea how the copper is fixed against the plank. so that would have to be removed to even get to the planks i would guess?

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    This era and this plan would have almost certainly been glued. Almost.

    Though I am starting to wonder now its been mentioned about the copper sheathing. That is very unusual for this type of boat. It is nice, but throws back to a much earlier time. Maybe the planking is shellacked between the layers - it would be pretty unusual, but it is also unusual for the glue to let go.

    The sheathing does make it a more complicated job by a long way if you want to put the sheathing back on at the end - you do mean the whole bottom is sheathed in copper?
    Best wishes
    Michael

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    61
    Posts
    39

    Default

    I cant say with 100% certainty the entire bottom is covered with copper but yes i do believe the greater portion of the bottom is copper sheathed as we discovered when scraping back antifoul back in 2007.

    Just another reason really to make sure i am cashed up before i start looking to closely.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. What timber for Boat frames
    By mcchaddy in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRING
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 29th November 2006, 11:55 AM
  2. Which Timber for Boat Frames
    By mcchaddy in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 26th September 2006, 02:23 PM
  3. Transom (boat) timber
    By igatenby in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10th May 2002, 09:09 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •