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  1. 4th January 2012, 11:03 AM #1
    SoLong
    SoLong is offline New Member
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    Default Modifications to outboard cut-out

    We have just had to buy a new outboard for the Lidgard 25. Unfortunately the new motor is just just a touch longer than the old and doesn't lift/drop through the existing hull cut out.

    The boat is constructed using the WEST system.

    As you can see from the photo, we have "modified" the cut-out to accommodate the new motor. When we started chiseling a significant amount of water leaked from under the coating which covers the timber hull - I presume it is fibreglass. There was absolutely no evidence of rot in the newly exposed ply.

    We were just going to fibreglass over the modification but it occurred to me that we should first seal the exposed timber. I suspect it would also be a good idea to remove a little more of the glass coating to reveal existing timber so that the new seal bonds with the old.

    Is this the right way to go and if so, what would you recommend as a sealer.

    Thanks in advance.

    Terry
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  3. 4th January 2012, 02:12 PM #2
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    PAR
    PAR is offline Yacht Designer & Builder
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    You're correct to expose more of the substrate. Grind it back until you find good, dry wood. Bath the area in acetone, which will suck off the moisture, then let it sit for a while until the wood is good and dry.

    Once it's dry (below 15% moisture content) then you can recoat the area (epoxy) and id desired, more fabric ('glass cloth) for abrasion protection. Smooth, prime and paint as usual when all is cured.
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  4. 5th January 2012, 09:59 PM #3
    SoLong
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    Thanks PAR, I suppose the answer is pretty obvious when you think about it. We put some WEST epoxy on it today. Because we needed so little, 60ml did the job, I am a little concerned about the mixing ratio. Tomorrow will tell.
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  5. 6th January 2012, 09:59 AM #4
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    PAR
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    Epoxy is fairly liberal in regard to mixing ratios, but you need to be within say 5% to get reasonable strength properties. The lower ratio mixtures are the best at this (1:1, 2:1, etc), with the higher percentage formulations being much more sensitive.

    Low temperatures can dramatically slow the cure rate, so bring the temperatures up as high as you can if you're still cool down there.
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