Thread: Painting guide/help

Hi Richard, there is a further reason for choosing 3mm in that the 4mm might not make that tight curve at either side of the buoyancy tank. Pity we don't have some plans around for the wooden NS14s which might tell us if the 4mm would work.

As far as starting to paint over part epoxy, part timber. If the timber is part exposed then there was no point in doing the epoxying in the first place. The advantage of the coating is purely from covering the surface. You can go either way of course, but you will probably need to use a primer over the bare timber before going to the undercoat.

If the areas are epoxied you don't need to use the primer.

Best wishes
Michael.

The yanks are lucky and seem to have reasonable exterior ply. I've yet to see any exterior in Oz that is better than utter crap. Hell, even some so-called 'marine' ply is crap, you really do have to pay to get the good stuff and on your boat, you shouldn't be thinking about saving a few bob on ply (you'll spend more on paint than you will on ply, any ply).

Marine ply has waterproof glue.
Exterior usually uses the same glue.
The difference is in the quality of the veneers (type of timber, surface quality, lack of knots, etc) and the lack of voids (gaps) in the inner plys - this last is where some of the cheaper stuff lets you down.

You'll also find that the better ply is a lot nicer to work with. I chose Pacific Maple for the Little Black Dog because I was unemployed and didn't have any money. She's yet to hit the water and I started regretting that choice a few months ago because of the weight penalty and, to a lesser extent, the surface quality.

Richard

Thanks MIK,

I just wanted to confirm that i will have no problems giving the epoxy a coat of primer. I ask this because the interior is a mixture of both, some of the epoxy has worn/weathered away where as some areas of epoxy look like new. It all depends on where it is on the boat.

Cheers

Ace

Good call about the exterior ply,

I only need one sheet of this stuff, maybe not even that! Ill wait and see how my calls for help go and then i may just have to bite the bullet and pay for postage.

Ace

Sorry .. I misunderstood. I thought you had applied the epoxy. If it is old stuff, you can prime right over.

If it was about 90% epoxy I would go straight to undercoat after putting a thinned coat of undercoat on any bare patches.

Mr P&W stock bendy ply. This is probably a good option for this job.

I just gave Mr P&W a call and they gave me a price of $86 for a full sheet of 3mm. The bloke also said that i can get it in half sheets as well with a $2.20 fee for cutting.

Now im trying to figure out how much filling/gluing powder and fairing powder (Q-cells) i may need. Its hard to estimate when ive never worked with epoxy before.

How far does this stuff go? I only have the tank skin to glue down and some smal bits and pieces, the hull/forward deck to fair and some small holes to fill. What do you reakon?

Thanks

Ace

Originally Posted by highace1

I just gave Mr P&W a call and they gave me a price of $86 for a full sheet of 3mm. The bloke also said that i can get it in half sheets as well with a $2.20 fee for cutting.

Now im trying to figure out how much filling/gluing powder and fairing powder (Q-cells) i may need. Its hard to estimate when ive never worked with epoxy before.

How far does this stuff go? I only have the tank skin to glue down and some smal bits and pieces, the hull/forward deck to fair and some small holes to fill. What do you reakon?

Thanks

Ace

Was this price for the bendy ply or normal stuff?

As for the Q cells/filler stuff, you probably don'y have too much choice as it comes in bags. You can get this from Bias Boating or FMS in Broadmeadow.

Im not sure, i remember he said something about it being expensive. I guess i will call back after Christmas and ask again.

Having a look around i have seen that Q Cells/Filler etc come in a variety of sizes. What im trying to get at, how big a bag am i likely to use? Being on a tight budget im not wanting to "waste" much on gear i may not use again.

Thanks

Ace

The bendy ply will need to be glassed at least lightly on both sides to have adequate strength which can add a fair bit of weight, cost and labour. I would guess it would be cheaper to get a sheet of 3mm ply.

If you can get a scrap of 4mm you can press it into the radius to see if it works. The grain needs to alighn with the centreline of the boat.

All the grain runs in one direction so it will crack along the grain without the glass.

MIK

Very soon I will be making the trip down to the shops to buy everything i need. From what i have figured out, $500-$600 is what it is going to cost for everything. Its going to look brand new!

Many pics to come.

After doing a bit of reading about painting etc, im wondering......what sort of filler can be used once the primer coats have gone down? I will be using an epoxy filler (Q-Cells) before any coats of primer will go down to fair the hull. Is it a matter of using primer to fill the lows?

Cheers

Ace

G'day Ace,
The curve on the transom seems mild enough to bend, but if you want to use stiffer ply, you could always deck the aft bouyancy tank with a flat sheet right across to the side sheeting and finish the side decks with a decorative angled trim, to follow the line of the side decks. If she's an old lake boat (Lake Macquarie) I'm surprised that she's not a self drainer. They were easier to sail, had no problems with centreboard case flexing, stiffer hull and easier to right after a capsize. Does she have a brass plate with a 2XXX number fixed near the mast step?
Cheers
Graeme

Originally Posted by highace1

Very soon I will be making the trip down to the shops to buy everything i need. From what i have figured out, $500-$600 is what it is going to cost for everything. Its going to look brand new!

Many pics to come.

After doing a bit of reading about painting etc, im wondering......what sort of filler can be used once the primer coats have gone down? I will be using an epoxy filler (Q-Cells) before any coats of primer will go down to fair the hull. Is it a matter of using primer to fill the lows?

Cheers

Ace

Hi Ace

Really you need to sort the fairing before the primer goes on. The primer is high build and does a great job of filling minor surface irregularities, but finish the fairing with the Q-cell mix first.

Originally Posted by graemet

G'day Ace,
The curve on the transom seems mild enough to bend, but if you want to use stiffer ply, you could always deck the aft bouyancy tank with a flat sheet right across to the side sheeting and finish the side decks with a decorative angled trim, to follow the line of the side decks. If she's an old lake boat (Lake Macquarie) I'm surprised that she's not a self drainer. They were easier to sail, had no problems with centreboard case flexing, stiffer hull and easier to right after a capsize. Does she have a brass plate with a 2XXX number fixed near the mast step?
Cheers
Graeme

Greamet....Unfortunatley i know nothing of the history of the boat, other than the bloke i bought it off, collected it from someone down in Gosford. Anything before that, i have no idea. Pitty really.

I havent seen any brass plate and i have pretty much looked everywhere. It does look as though some mods have been done at some stage, only minor though. I have posted something on the national association website for NS14's, asking for a rough hull type or a build date, nothing so far.

I have also thought about doing what you suggested, just placing a level section of ply rather than bending it. Ill have a good think as to how to accomplish that. It would probably help with the rudder mounting as well..................... hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

From the looksof things the centreboar case wiggle is due to glue bond giving away slightly, nothing too major though.

Really you need to sort the fairing before the primer goes on. The primer is high build and does a great job of filling minor surface irregularities, but finish the fairing with the Q-cell mix first.

Woodeneye.....Thanks for the tip, i thought that may be the case. I guess it comes down to not believeing eveything you read.

Cheers

Ace