Thread: Painting guide/help

Sure did, sail number 1888.

Just had a look at the association website. The details on the register say its a Flight 24 hull, named "Raging Bull" (Thats from the sail number 1888). When did they stop building these hulls in timber? Also, having a look at the class rules, there are a number of things that my hull doesnt have, like tow ring etc etc. Could that mean that this hulls hasnt raced? Im unsure.

Cheers

Ace

Howdy ... suspect these are second hand sails ... your boat doesn't look like a Flight!

I friend is selling an XX series of flight ... they have not been buildable in plywood for many years because of the complex bottom shapes and his was the prototype for the series built in foam/glass by Kulmar.

They have had this sort of pronounced chine - or even more on the Flights since about Flight XIII



Your hull is from the late 70s or early '80s.

Here is one with a hull number near yours.


the modern boats do look quiet similar. The one behind the rigged one has the Flight type pronounced chine.

MIK

Well its definatley not a Flight hull then!

I thought that may be the case. I like the fact i have an older boat, a bit of nostalgia. I really never had any intentions of racing, maybe down the track with a newer boat.

Its in pretty good nic for a 30+ year old boat then! I love it.

Thanks for the info MIK, everyone has been a gret help.

Ace

I think i have found a picture of a hull similar to the one i have. Second one from the right. It Looks very similar.

Picture from High Performance Sailing by Frank Bethwaite, A & D are Dribbly hulls, circa 1969. Grandpa NS?

Ace

Just a couple of pics of the interior of the boat. I know the patches dont look the best but im not game to do anything about them other than paint over them. I have sanded and sanded, with some more sanding to go

The guts of the centreboard case has gotten a good sanding ready for a seal up. A liitle bit of fibreglass work around the base of the case and some timber supports that will run forward to the corners of the tank will strengthen it all up nicely.

Still having a think about making the rear tank all flat rather than curved. Im still sorting out how to support the joints a bit more.

Either way i think its in pretty good condition from a noobs point of view. What do the pros think? Please dont tell me anythingbad

Ace

That is one of the all time famous photos. The boats have changed a great deal, but the era in the pics was arguably the most fun to sail. Or the generation immediately after that when the rocker was greatly reduced and the sterns became smaller.

They have become a lot more twitchy since then. Still great boats but more specialised than the era in the pics.

Epoxy fillets are better than glass tape if the wood is clean and is easier and neater.

The Bethwaite Dribbly hulls were glass production jobs. But it probably came from the same era. I was just starting to be interested in boat design so know the generation of boats after this a lot better.

Michael

The boats have changed a great deal, sign of the times i spose.

I was going to epoxy fillet the joint between the case sides and the base to help with the slight wabble and maybe throw a bit of glass tape over the lot to help it along a bit, if thats not necessary i wont bother.

I think i may have to take greamets advice and go the flat skin on the rear tank. I have found that 4mm ply is a fair bit cheaper and will give me a stronger and not much heavier surface. I will follow the angle of the side decks right through to the transom but have a flat sheet in the centre. I know its not keeping with the original but i think in the end it will look poretty good with a nice fillet and ultimately be cheaper.

Cheers

Ace

Test the 4mm ply first ... cut a 30mm strip off one of the ends and see if it will make the curve. If it does then the whole sheet will probably do it too.

The strip has to be cut off across the sheet so the grain is oriented in the most flexible direction. Cut this way you can bend 6mm ply so that the ends will touch without it breaking.

the ply will probably need to be joined up the middle too - I suspect the width of the tank is much wider than 4 ft.

If you have clean wood to bond to then the fillet will be more than fine. The radius needs to be 3 times the ply thickness. If there are any cracks etc I would brush with mixed resin hardener with no powder first and leave it a few minutes before doing hte filleting. Masking tape can reduce the problems with tidiness ... set it back a bit wider than the fillets will go.

MIK

4mm i think is the way to go, if it wont conform to the shape of the tank i will flatten it all up. I also took a few measurements, and it looks like i will need to make a joint down the centreline with the ply. The forward secton of the tank is slightly wider than the width of the ply (1.2m).

Somethng strange.......I noticed last night that it looked as though a section of the boat had gotten wet. I gave it a once over with the heat gun and it dried up but after about 30mins it came back again. I have setup a fan to blow over the affected areas hoping it will dry it out. My daughter could be the culprit here with a flannel she was wondering around with the other night. Being 2 years old, she loves to help. Hopefully it will dry out.

Cheers

Ace

Everything dries out eventually! Time to dry it can be similar to the time it was soaking for!

MIK

G'day Ace,
If your sails are #1888 then they weren't the originals, but probably a second hand set. Your boat probably had a number under 900, or a 2000 number which was the old state based system before the National Association was formed. The hull looks like a very early development of the original Spencer Javelin hull. It could be an Analisa which was designed by Robin Rae and the hulls built by John McConachy (yes, the bloke who builds the super maxis) or any of the designs before about 1975 when sheet ply hulls were still competitive. Indeed it could well be an early Flight as (I think) the first fifteen were all sheet ply, and there were lots of them around. As the class developed, the hulls became faster and more twitchy. Yours should be quite stable and easy to sail without being ultra fast, (you couldn't expect a 40 year old boat to match a modern design) . The tow-ring was usually shackled to the bow fitting.
Good luck with the restoration.
Cheers
Graeme

WOW, thanks very much for the information. Being the age that it is, i thought it would be difficult to track down any sort of history for the hull. I love the fact that i got an older hull, knowing that many people have sailed it before an enjoyed it.

I really do appreciate it, im content now.

Thanks again

Ace

From a design point of view the Analisa was (from my knowledge) the breakthrough hull which defined the NS14.

The original Javelin hulls were pretty blunt - the Javelin had a trapeze and 50% more sail area so was expected to plane.

The Analisa moved over to a finer entry and I think a narrower stern than the Javelin. They make almost no wake compared to the Jav.

Would love to see a plan for an Analisa! NS14s were a couple of generations (generations were only a year or so apart in the early days - lots of change) past that once I got into them.

Best wishes
Michael

I have now had the fan on the damp patches for a while now, its slowly drying. Is it usual/unusual that salt is appearing on the surface of the timber? Also, could it have anything to do with the fact that it has been raining 3 days straight here in Newcastle (humidity quite high)?

Cheers

Ace