Thread: painting help

I would suggest getting rid of the flaking paint only by initial scraping then sanding.

Then look at the info on this page.

It does talk about priming with epoxy. This is not necessary in your case. Just thin the primer down by about 30% for the first coat when you are covering the bare wood.

Then proceed with undercoating properly and the final painting. I would not do too good a job until you get the boat in the water to see how it goes. Maybe just get the patch undercoating done ready to move over to the final colour ... and then use the boat while it is still piebald. If it doesn't leak much at all then you won't need any repairs. and you can paint.

Anyway look down here for the article on repairing and painting plywood boats. Tehre is an article on repairing paint and minor damage ... CASE 5 ... I think.

Michael Storer

Thanks, Michael. I read your pages, but wasn't too sure about the epoxy stuff. It's good to know I can just use primer.

There are some fibreglassed areas as well, around the centreboard area, and on the seams, and what looks like a ding that was patched with fibreglass. Should I treat that the same - i.e. scrape it off if it's lifting, and leave it if it isn't? Can I just paint over it and hope it doesn't fall off in the water?

Since you haven't any real idea what's going on with this boat and it's structure, I'm in agreement with Michael (amazing as it might seem) to just do a minimum job of repairs, then launch the boat. I would insure reasonable coverage with a top coat and not go out with primer exposed (it absorbs moisture). Sail it around and you'll quickly learn what it needs. Then you can perform a more informed repair schedule around the "known" issues.

It's likely the centerboard case repairs (old 'glass work) will need addressing in the near future, so don't go crazy with it, just some sealing with paint, maybe a little caulk, have some fun and note where it leaks, if the case is moving around, pay attention to seams under way, etc. Before long, you'll have a whole list of stuff to ask and we'll still be here (except me, I heard a rumor that I'm getting banned)

Is this a rumour that you are promulgating Paul?

My guess is that your greater presence indicates that winter has come your way.

Actually I did notice you talking about it on another forum - come to think of it you were saying almost the same there as here!!! Are you plagiarising yourself?

MIK.

Thanks, PAR, that makes a lot of sense.

Can anyone suggest a product to fill in some, uh, dips in the hull, 5-20mm across?

And, just checking, I only put primer on the bare wood, not the old paint, right?

Hey Hally, read my case 5 .... there are pics ... the whole deal. Just do with the primer/undercoat what I did with the epoxy. But you have to be sure of getting rid of any flaky paint first.

Here
http://boats-storerdesign.blogspot.c...including.html

As it is a small boat which won't be kept in the water much get a polyester auto filler. Try to get one that is not a dark colour otherwise you will need more paint to cover it.

If you have to do more serious repairs after a trial of the boat I will be pushing you toward epoxy ... but lets keep it simple and see if the boat can be got into the water in a simple way.

DAMMIT .. forgot to post it

Michael

No, just pulling your halyard. It's warmed back up to the low 70's again so I'm feeling better. I'll be better still once it gets back into the high 70's to low 80's where it belongs for this time of year. When you get set up for epoxy runs with slow hardener and the daily departures don't help out with your plans, then I get all pissy and start complaining about hooker prices going up, etc.

For those who might be tempted to think otherwise ... PAR has used the word "hooker".

I believe he means a type of boat.

MIK

D'oh! I saw that before, but didn't realise there was a second page. Fantastic tutorial, thanks!

Originally Posted by Boatmik

For those who might be tempted to think otherwise ... PAR has used the word "hooker".

I believe he means a type of boat.

MIK

Thank goodness for that.
I was wondering what a US citizen would need a rugby player for.

If ever I am so foolish as to offer painting advice, here is why you should not take it.

Ever.

Unless I am recounting mistakes.

I am repainting Teal. It's been sitting under various tatty bits of polytarp in the sun & weather for the last 10 years since I built it. 5 years since last recoat, when I sanded back the not-tough-enough latex I originally painted it (that is significant), & overcoated with a good quality exterior enamel by Dulux (that word is also significant).

Was just going to coat the bits where I did the fibreglassing, but on close inspection, the whole boat had checked where the latex under the enamel had shrunk, leaving fine lines in the coating. I hate sanding. I detest painting. But sometimes you have just got to do the whole thing.

Did all the sanding, did all the clear around the gunwales, taped & masked for the hull.

Went rummaging in the shed for the 2/3 can of white enamel I knew was left there. Found 1/4 can of the white epoxy enamel I prefer for the kayaks. Not enough for Teal. Rummaged some more & came out with a 2/3+ can of Dulux (note that word) white
exterior gloss. Bewdy !!

Put the first coat on with a brush. Hmmm. Seems a bit thick, but not too bad. The brush marks didn't seem to level out the way I expect from enamel, but I'm a truly terrible painter, it was a chilly afternoon, and it's a high-quality paint so expect it to be a bit thicker than last I used it (35degC in the shade). Left it overnight to dry.

Was busy this morning, so a bit of a rush job to get coat #2 on before dashing off to work. Decided to try MIK's tipping method using roller & brush to see if I couldn't get a better finish on it. Almost finished the first side, the foam came apart on the roller. Old roller.

"Bother" says I, & dashes off to the shed to swap it over. No worries with the tipping - it's a cool day & enamel takes forever to dry. Except, while I was in the shed, the sun came out... Got back & there was no chance of tipping that stippled surface. Ever.
Have to sand & recoat. (x2) Said "Bother" a few more times. With extra feeling. (x5)

Decided to finish the coat off with the brush so it would be an even coating in the end. May as well sand the whole boat again as half the boat. *mumble, mumble* Finished the coat. Disappointing lack of smoothness. <Shrug> If I was decent painter it'd be better.

Got to rush off to work so went to toss the brush back into a tin of water so as to not need to clean it right away.

Hang on a mo.... that water has gone white... Enamel doesn't come off in water... grab can & read fine print....

Dulux
Xtreem 10
10 year guarantee
Exterior High Gloss
Latex Paint

ARRRGGGGGHHHHHHH !!! (x2) (x3) (x2) (x1,562)

Not an option to take it immediately out onto the grass & try to scrub off every last vestige of two days painting due to imminent shift start.

So.... do I hope to be able to scrub it off tomorrow... damn stuff can't handle scratching but sticks to properly keyed surface like poop to a blanket.

Or accept that I have coated my boat with an unsatisfactory substance & just live with it.

Offers of too much alcohol gratefully accepted.

AJ

Originally Posted by Boatmik

For those who might be tempted to think otherwise ... PAR has used the word "hooker".

I believe he means a type of boat.

MIK

and I thought he had been looking to clean someones bottom hooker

Originally Posted by b.o.a.t.

Or accept that I have coated my boat with an unsatisfactory substance & just live with it.

Mate it's guaranteed for 10 years she'll be right.

Originally Posted by m2c1Iw

Mate it's guaranteed for 10 years she'll be right.

it's guaranteed for 10 years on a house.
On the boat, it rubs off on the roof-racks, the trailer bars, other boats, the ground, etc etc.
EVERYTHING else is harder or more durable.