Thread: Phoenix at the bottom of the garden

Colin,

Thanks for posting the pictures, and thanks also for the kind words about the plans.

It looks as though you are doing a first-class job, and thoroughly endorse your comments about the stick-nail-pencil compass and the Douglas Protractor - I use exactly that combination on my own work. Do not ever trust that the end cuts on plywood sheets are at ninety degrees to the long edges.

I really hope that the project goes well for you. There are quite a number of Phoenix III's in the water now, and I'm happy to say that the people who have reported back are happy with their boats. I've just been up to the Bribie Island Classic Boat Regatta, and I had the pleasure of seeing both a Phoenix III and a Periwinkle performing as well or better than the best of them. I sailed in both boats and it was very gratifying.

Thanks again for the note,

Ross Lillistone

Thank goodness for tarps. And thank you for sharing the start of your build. This will be a lovely boat, I'm sure. Look forward to seeing her develop.
Rob

Hi Colin, so thats where those bits you were showing me go. Mate its getting a bit nippy up here on the mountain. Give me a call if you need a hand with those big planks.
Ian L.

Meanwhile, some time later . . .

Here are the results of my learning experiences on the Phoenix so far.
Sorry about the gunwales Ross. My gear and I aren't up to what you had in mind.
That's just the start really. If I'm asked about the design, instead of the long list of disclaimers I'd have to give out on your behalf, I have simply printed cards with the URL where they can see photos of a proper one.

Yes, water has got under the tarp a couple of times. Must do something about that before I turn it over. Don't want it to start life as a bird bath.

Good job. Your planking looks neat.

Cheers, Cameron.

Hi Colin, looks like you have a boat. When is the turn over? Call me if you need a hand.
Ian L

Colin,

She looks very neat and clean to my eyes, especially as you are working under such difficult conditions.

As for the gunwales, what you have done will be fine - both structurally and aesthetically. I'm interested to know whether you have had any significant problems with the plans as presented, or whether you are just being modest about your efforts? Any feed-back that may help others would be gratefully received.

Please feel free to email or 'phone if you need any assistance.

Cheers,

Ross Lillistone

Thanks for the offer Ian, but I was home one day last week when I reached my procrastination threshold.
I lined up saw horses and camping matresses, left the main mold in and rolled it over. Then just a matter of working it sideways onto cradles on the strongback.
Despite serious misgivings, it turned out to be surprisingly light and easily manageable for one person (thanks Ross).
Worked out well. Am now off to buy shares in a company that makes sandpaper.

Colin,

Sanding epoxy is not much fun, but you can get rid of the majority of the lumps, bumps and dribbles by using a sharp scraper (I favour the triangular ones you can get from paint shops known as "Hook" scrapers) and a heatgun or hair dryer.

The heatgun should be set on a fairly low temperature, which is about the equivalent to the high setting on a good hair dryer. Keep the gun moving over the area you are working so that you don't scorch the timber, and, more importantly, so that you don't get too much penetration of heat into the timber where it may damage the actual glue line.

You will quite quickly get the hang of the process, and with a sharp scraper and just enough heat, you can very easily remove excess epoxy with just thumb and finger pressure on the scraper. I sharpen regularly using a 12" mill file.

I'm pretty sure there is a reference to the use of heatguns in the WEST System book, "The Gougeon rothers on Boat Construction", but I can't find it right at the moment.

With the bulk of the cured epoxy removed this way, you will find that the sanding is relatively easy. The idea I have is that sanding is not a material-removal process, but more a final fairing.

Ross Lillistone www.baysidewoodenboats.com.au

Feels like I've reached a sort of milestone, but still a way to go yet.

I claim a small victory in finding the sheers being level along the whole length.
Only I will know about all the mishaps that have been hidden or worked around.

Now appreciate how much stuff gets blown into the garage via the roof and settles on the hull. Next job will be to build that indoor tent before any painting starts.

Colin

Looking good Colin. so where is the car parked or shouldn't I ask. Plan to launch the Auk "Ripples" 1600hrs 5/11/11 at Newport, every one's welcome, there should be enough Boags for all.
Ian L

Originally Posted by colinpr

Only I will know about all the mishaps that have been hidden or worked around.

And after a while even you won't know where these are either.

When I built Miss Mouse there were three notable mistakes. I can only see one of these now. Can't even remember what the others were.

Cheers, Cameron.

Decks now under construction. The short side deck panels result from a desperate attempt to avoid buying another whole sheet of ply. It looks like I'll now have a 300mm square piece left over, phew!.

Things I'd do differently: Remember, you can never have too many clamps - think of the number you will need, then triple it so I could bend at twist the gunwales on properly.

The project has entered its third year. Here's my secret for making the fun last longer, or 'boat building at the bottom of the food chain' as it should be called.

Study plans - plan strategy - study how others have done it - devise new strategy - procrastinate - do it - identify stuffups - devise strategy - procrastinate - cover mistakes - ... repeat at all stages of construction.

Looking good. with the craking pace you are setting it should be ready for Newport in November.
Ian L