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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    103

    Default Polyester/epoxy compatability

    Hey guys, I need to do some repairs on my new boat, a 23 foot fibreglass caribbean. There are 2 different repairs-

    Down the centre of the bull, from midships aft, is a cavity for the fuel tank (long rectangular fibreglass unit) and behind that, the engine compartment. One either side of this cavity, are a flotation compartment that runs full length on port and stbd sides of the hull. There are 2 rubbing strips in the cavity that locate the fuel tank on either side, and also 2 identical strips of timber above this, that the false floor panel rests on top of. The upper 2 floor rests have pulled away from the hull and I want to replace these. I am assuming this boat is layed up in polyester resin and chopped strand mat? Do I use polyester or epoxy resin to adhere/seal the new strips of timber in?

    Not the best shot, but this is the cavity, you may see the strips at the top which locate the false floor, and directly below are the fuel tank rubbing strips.



    2nd repair- I have cut inspection holes in the floor forward of the fuel tank cavity. This floor is ply and glassed in. There is a frame directly behind this section of floor, with a bilge space of a few inches directly below. Somewhere along the line, someone has plugged the limber holes in this frame with wine corks. When I pulled all the floors out, i found a tremendous amount of rubbish, muck, assorted fastners etc. I was worried about what was under the glassed in floor, and wanted to have access in future/drying out etc. I cut a series of holes with a holesaw, inspecting as I went. The floor is solid and no nasties beneath, besides a whole lot more rubbish and muck, and leftovers from an internal fit out in the past. I cleaned it all out, now I want to seal the end grain of the ply floor where I have cut with the holesaw. I'll then be making a new drop in false floor panel that will sit on top of this, that can be pulled out to clean bilge etc. I am assuming again that the glassed in ply floor, is polyester resin, and is chopped strand mat. Do I use polyester resin to seal the end grain and glass? Or do I use epoxy?

    This is a picture of the floor before I cut out the inspection holes, will post another pic soon of how it looks now.



    Cheers,


    Chris

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    103

    Default

    I've done some more research, it seems that my best interests are to use epoxy, for many reasons. For the false floor locating strips, I'll seal the back of the strip in epoxy and let it cure, then epoxy the strip to the inside wall of the cavity (cleaned fibreglass) and screw along its length, then once cured, remove the screws and plug screw holes with epoxy, and then seal the strip along its length with epoxy. How does this sound?

    As for the forward floor section with holes cut out, i'll let it all dry out, clean up the holes with sandpaper, and then coat exposed grain with epoxy.

    Does this sound like I am on the right track?

    Chris

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ricochet View Post
    Does this sound like I am on the right track?

    Chris
    Yep, I would use epoxy. It bonds better to wood than polyseter ever did.

    No worries with comaptabiltiy either. Epoxy will bond to cured polyseter OK.

    Note though that the reverse is not true - polyseter resin won't bond to cured epoxy, not that you would ever want to do this anyway.

    It is very important to seal off exposed end-grain of cut timber. This is where most rot gets in. Epoxy is good stuff. Go for it.

    Cheers, Cameron.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Thanks very much for that Cameron, really appreciate it! Here are some pics of what I found-

    It started with water in the bilge, due to boatyard leaving transom bung in and some rain here in Perth. Brought her home and let her drain, but i wanted to further inspect, as when the boat was retrimmed, all floor spaces were sealed off by carpet being glued down.

    I cut the carpet out and found the fuel tank and 30 years of rubbish and muck below




    I cleaned all this out, and found a few things. All limber holes in frames were blocked with rubbish and gunk, but the midships frame had been purposely blocked with wine corks.



    I wanted to get access to the sealed floor around the helm, as i was sure there was nasty things below. I bit the bullet and cut inspection holes with a holesaw, and worked my way up the floor. There was a lot of rubbish under there also, that was blocking the limber holes in the frame immediately aft.








    You can see in the last pic that the floor extends into the V-berth. I was thinking about doing the same for the V-berth floor, but there is no frame below it, so all the rubbish would have washed back to the helm floor. The ply floor at the helm was in good condition, no rot or soft spots, but it doesn't seem to be sealed on the underside of the ply. Glass strand mat and resin on top, bare ply underside. Needless to say will be keeping a close eye on this cavity and keeping it well ventilated.

    Chris

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Chris, you seem to have things well in hand. Unfortunately, you are experiencing what many have with older production boats.

    I'm surprised you have any limber holes at all in the sole support framing. It's common for them not to have any. You are very correct in that the weeps (limbers) need to be cleaned out and placed where necessary. You can't have too many, but you sure can have too few.

    Typically, they sealed up the under sole area by tabbing the sole to the hull shell and leaving the support structure out of sight, out of mind. This works until the boat is out of warranty, at which point they don't care any more.

    The best thing you can do is provide a path for any accumulated moisture to drain aft. This usually means lots of weep holes and modifying the framing a little. Also consider some plywood "bilge hatches" so you can uncover these contained areas and vent them, when the boat is parked. Naturally, park her bow high so she can drain aft to the transom plugs.

    With the plywood uncoated, it'll go soft eventually, unless very well ventilated (as you know). Replacing a sole is a pain in the butt, but not as hard as it would seem. Since you seem to have caught this before the sole feels like your walking around on a mattress, you have a shot at preventing it from rotting out.

    Carpet has killed many a boat. Don't use it if you can avoid it, unless it on a purely 'glass piece. If it's on a plywood part, even covered with 'glass, it will eventually rot the plywood, from trapped moisture. If it wasn't for carpet in boats, I'd have lost 50% of my repair business. So, I'm hoping the word doesn't get out to the manufactures, so keep this secret for me, will 'ya.

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