Thread: The project

Today was the day for the rollover of the boat. I had a couple of mates come around and it went really smoothly.
The engine bearers are sitting in the bottom of the boat and will be needing some slight fine tuning to get them sitting nicely against the bottom ribs neatly.

The cockpit centre section will need a bit more fiddling to get it to sit nicely into the shape of the boat now. Since I have re ribbed the centre section of the boat it is now stiffer than it was before re ribbing which was when I made the centre cockpit section. This means that I will have to change a couple of the centre side deck supports to fit the new shape. The change may mean that I have to remake a couple of the plywood deck panels that I have already made but that is a minor problem to overcome.
The boat looks so much better now that these three things have been achieved. It really looks like so much more like the real thing.
There is still a long way to go till it's finished but the perception is everything at this stage.
Cheers
Peter

Since the rollover day which was only 14 day ago tomorrow I have been able to achieve what I think is a fair amount.
The centre cockpit sections have been installed in place after making the modifications to fit the changed shape of the boat. The boat turned out to be no more than 8mm out from side to side. I'm more than apply to only be out that much whe you consider what I started with and what as been done to get this stage of the restoration.

The steering hub will be put in tomorrow with the SS steering cable. I still have to make a couple of pulley wheels for the steering as the originals are 50yo Bakelite and have got chunks out of them.

I have coated the plywood deck panels with 2coats of an epoxy timber sealer. The strip decking that will be overlaid over the plywood has nearly all been machined. To get the curve acrss the deck in the centreline strip of the Mahogany I will probably have to kerf the back of it. I will experiment with a bit of off cut other timber to see how it goes.
The glove box has been made and installed. To get clearance for the steering wheel I have had to change the shape of the knees in the fwd corners of the front cockpit.
The weather in Melbourne is hot hot hot. Today was over 30*c again today and the forecast is that it will continue until mid next week. Not the ideal for bat work.
cheers for now
Peter

It has been nearly a week since I have posted the progress of the boat.
In that time I have obtained the steering sheaves, installed the steering hub and the cable.
The deck has been glued and naile in place. The outside of the deck has been trimmed to suit the outside of the coaming. I ave also started the set out of the strip planking which will be glued down to the plywood.
I am unsure which adhesive I will use. It will either be the West System epoxy or a polyurethane sealant/adhesive such as 3M5200.
tomorrow I will finish the work on the deck plywood and get ready for the strip planking
cheers
Peter

3M 5200 or similar are sealant/adhesives. Though 3M 5200 does have a high adhesive element, it's still a sealant, not an adhesive.

A deck can be applied a few ways, each depending on several factors. If the deck is a veneer, it should be glued down, mostly because the surface treatment (the veneers) just aren't thick enough to support themselves or hold fasteners. If the decking material is thick enough, typically 3/8" (9 mm) or more, it is thick enough to take fasteners (and bungs if desired), so it can be placed in a sealant bedding, (3M 5200 wouldn't be my first choice). The reason is the surface material is stiff and thick enough, that fasteners have sufficient grip to hold it in place.

With your 3/8" thick decking stock, you can do either. Epoxy doesn't need fasteners, though often are employed anyway (typically staples or brads in the seams), if only to hold things until the goo cures. The only way I recommend a glued down deck, is over encapsulated plywood, that also has two layers of light cloth on the substrate, before you epoxy down the deck material. I've seen single sheath substrates fail, usually around fastener penetrations, but never around two layers or more.

Par, many thanks for your input it is greatly appreciated.

I think I need to do a bit more homework before I go too much further
regards
peter sneddon

After work today I installed the first centreline length of Mahogany. I first double checked that the centreline mark was accurate and then glued it down with epoxy adhesive. I will leave it clamped up until late tomorrow to give the adhesive plenty of time to set off.

So in the meantime I will do some machining of the Mahogany for the infill contrast strips and the silver ash for the coaming and the transom style piece.
Late tomorrow I my be able to put the first mahogany coaming strip in place.
cheers
peter

Well the machining didn't get done due to all the rain that we had yesterday but I did manage to get a couple of the outer deck edge strips done.

I have scarfed the ends of the timber and then glued the strips in segments to the boat. I have set up for the next strip to be laid and will hopefully get it laid over the next couple of days.

PAR when does a polyurethane go from being a sealant to an adhesive??? Strength of elongation perhaps? meaning brands like Sika or 3M or whatever

Yep, it's about modulus of elongation. You can formulate polyurethane to have most any physical ability. As a pure adhesive, it's not especially flexible and can tend to be brittle. As a pure sealant, it's quite flexible, elastic and very limited "tack". Most formulations pick a side of the coin to live on - sealant or adhesive. 3M-5200 is well into the adheasive side, but still has moderate elongation, while BoatLife caulk is much more sealant, with 3 times as much elongation, but considerable less adhesion. This is why you see both words (adhesive and sealant) on the labels usually. 3M-5200 is tenacious, but usually too elastic for true gluing. It's also a lot more expensive then epoxy, if used as an adhesive.

Yesterday I finished work early and came home to do the wood machining that I had planed over a week ago.
I still have a litte to do to narrow the Huon pine deck strips down to 40mm wide but that won't take long to complete.
The deck design will be n 80mm strip of Mahogany down the centreline of the deck, then alternating out from the centreline will be alternating strips of 2x40mm strips of Huon Pine and 50mm strips of Mahogany.
The deck edge has a alternating 10mm strips of Mahogany and Silver Ash and the coaming will be of Silver Ash probably about 19mm wide.
The cockpit trim will also be Silver Ash to cover the end grain of the deck planking.
The engine cover will probably be done in solid Mahogany strips to have the coverage complete dark colour.
I am hoping to get a number of planks glued in place over the Easter break. It's very fiddly.

Happy Easter to one and all.

When finished,You'll just have to take it to Goolwa.I find wooden boat festivals are great places to get inspiration.

The first outing for the boat I am hoping to attend is theCAWPBA wet together at Nerandera in November this year and then see where life takes things from there. Goolwa for next year is in the diary though.

Cheers
Peter

The progress has been steady.

I have decided to use the Bote Cote system to glue the deck strips in place. After glueing the centreline king plank in place, I have now planked the aft deck with the Huon pine and Mahogany to the point that I need to get the long lengths outside the edge of the cockpit in place.
This week I will continue to do the foredeck area to get that area to the edge of the cockpit.
I have purchased some Fijian Mahogany which is a plantation grow version of the same species as the Honduras Mahogany. The colour and the wight of the timber is lighter than the "wild" Mahogany but it is readily obtainable. I will be using this timber for the long lengths that I need outside the line of the cockpit edges.

I am hoping that the one long length of Huon Pine that I have will be enough for the long lengths that I need outside the line of the cockpit edges. I keep my eyes open for a long lengths but they are not easy to find.

I will post some photos in the near future.
Cheers
peter

The after deck has all the Mahogany and Huon Pine strips glued down in place till they meet the outside edge of the rear cockpit sides.

The strips between the aft cockpit and the engine compartment have also been glued into place.
Tomorrow I have to do some paid work in the morning but in the afternoon I will do the rest of the wood machining to get ready for laying the planks on the foredeck. I have cut the strip planks to the required length. They need to be run through the thicknesses to match the rest of the planks. I have also bought a couple of long lengths of the Fijian version of Honduras Mahogany. I intend at this time to do the entire engine cover with the Mahogany. After I have the strips between the front and rear cockpit and the engine access hatch both glued in place I I'll see what it looks like. If SWMBO likes it then that what will happen, if SWMBO doesn't like it then I will continue with the Huon and Mahogany strips. Just will have to see if I have enough Huon Pine strips left. I hope so.

Probably I'll have the strips ready for starting to lay them too late tomorrow to do any fitting but hope to get a couple of them glued in place on Sunday.