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Thread: The project

  1. #76
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    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Default

    A lot of old school "warped bottom" designs used a hook to control bow rise. It works, but has other limiting factors. If you don't over power the boat, she'll likely be fine, assuming the hook is supposed to be there. If not, you can fill it with bog and paint later. They do limit top speed and can cause longitudinal instability (porpoising and other crap) if the hull is pushed too fast. Keep it below 35 MPH (56 KPH) and you'll be fine, though at 35 MPH, the hull may want to "dance", depending on weight, CG location and a number of other things.

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  3. #77
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    May 2010
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    melbourne
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    Default Now for the mechanicals

    Seeing as the weather here has turned crappy again I decided that today I would start doing something with the engine for the boat.

    The engine that came with the boat was a Ford Y block 272 cu in V8. I was told that the engine was a going concern but really had no idea whether it was OK or if it would need a rebuild. I was hoping it didn't need to be rebuilt.

    I have decided to start the engine and see what it sounds like before I do anything. Today I have drained the oil out of the sump. The oil looked like the colour of crude oil rather than lubricating oil! I have now removed the sump to see if there were any signs of bearing metal in the oil. I also took off the oil filter to have a look in that as well.

    Good news there was no signs of bearing metal in the the bottom of the sump or on the outside of the oil filter. There was not all that much sludge in the sump either. Tomorrow I will tear the oil filter apart and have a look inside but I think it will be fine. I will also get some degreaser and clean the sump ready to put it back on the bottom of the block. Thisip means that I should be able to get thing started in the near future and then think about installation.

    I'm hoping that all is OK and that this can shorten the time till the whole thing is finished.
    Last edited by piquet; 4th August 2013 at 04:17 PM. Reason: IPad predictive text problems!!!

  4. #78
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    If the oil is very black, it's still doing it's job, which is to keep dirt in suspension. The lack of sludge is also a very good sign and one of the first things I look for when I pull a pan or valve cover.

    Since you have the pan off, it would be a good idea to have a look at the bearings, while you're there. New bearing don't cost much and you can find a lot about the wear on the engine by looking at them. In this same vain, new rod and main bearings means popping in a new set of rings, wouldn't be much more trouble, so now you have a fairly level playing field, in regard to what the motor can do. At the very least I'd toss in a new oil pump, before putting the pan back on.

  5. #79
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    May 2010
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    melbourne
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    Thanks Par, your advice is always constructive and appreciated. I wasn't too worried about the colour of the oil. It was more an observation than anything else.

    I have cleaned out the sump and cut the filter open. No signs of anything untoward inside the filter.
    I have some new spark plugs for it and went to change them or at least get an old one out to see what had been fitted. What a bugger of a job. Almost impossible to get the 13/16 plug socket on because of the exhaust manifold. The socket goes on but no room to get square drive on or spanner on end of socket and then it was too long to get socket off the plug after loosening it before the socket fouled on the manifold again. Talk about an awful fit. I relented to a normal socket and a pair of locking pliers. It came out that way but it would be an awful job once the engine is in the boat.
    The old plugs aren't too bad although a bit sooted up, no signs of any oiliness about them at all. So that is another good sign. I will pull a main and a big end bearing and have a look at the bottom half and that will give an indication.

    I wish I had an engine stand that is strong enough to take the weight of the Y block. My god they are a big lump of metal in relation to the Holden 6 cylinder and V8's that I have had on the stand.The only thing that I can see that needs to be done is to remove the pick from through the side of the sump replace the fibre washers either side of the side wall of the sump and retighten. Obviously there was an oil leak there and the previous owner decided that silicone was the right thing to seal it up.
    There are also a couple of stripped threads on the dog gearbox cover plate that have to be repaired. I may have to helicoil one of the threads but that's of no real hassle.
    Cheers
    Peter

  6. #80
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    May 2010
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    melbourne
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    Default Y block

    Work has started on the engine for the boat. I have purchased a couple of exhaust flanges a drive shaft coupling and the exhaust tips. The shiny bits will be put away and only be put on closer to the final stages.
    The sump has cleaned up nicely, the copper washers have been found and it is nearly ready to bolt the sump back on to the block. New spark plugs fitted a couple of gaskets that looked a bit shabby have been replaced.
    The engine mounts have been cleaned up and the correct bolts found for the slider adjustments have been installed. Mount to engine frame bolts installed.
    Later today I will retap the striped threads. Tomorrow the sump will be reinstalled and then most things are ready to try and get the engine to start and run.

  7. #81
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    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
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    Default Things

    Things like thermo-stats in the heat exchange / cooling system are probably worth looking at - they can freeze up with lengthy non use and she will overheat quickly if you do get it to run and there's any cooling system blockage in a frozen thermostat...

  8. #82
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    melbourne
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    This thing is that old that it doesn't have a thermostat. It is a raw water cooling system. Water pickups in bottom of boat and it has a pump to circulate it through sump, then to engine and from block into exhaust manifolds e it discharges through the exhaust system.

    There are two pickups in the bottom of the hull but only one point of entry into the cooling coils in the sump, not sure where the second pickup is supposed to be connected but I feel sure it wil become obvious once the engine is sitting in place

  9. #83
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    Have the heat exchanger "boiled out" at a radiator shop. They fill with calcium and other deposits pretty quickly and these can be easily removed. Also replace the pencil anode as a matter of course. Also as a matter of course I usually replace all hoses and clamps too, on any motor new to me, so I know where I stand in their maintenance schedule. Ditto the pump's impeller and belt.

  10. #84
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    Default Y block

    This thing doesn't have a heat exchanger.
    I would have changed the drive belt. But I'll now also take the water pump off and check the impeller and if it's a bit worn find a new one.

    Oyherwise it's a new waterpump. We are getting there slowly, slowly.

  11. #85
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    Water pump impellers are considered "consumable" items, just like an oil filter. Outboard, inboard, it doesn't matter. In fact, the amount of use doesn't either, just age and wear. Simply put, a brand new rubber impeller installed last year, but used only 10 hours, should be replaced, based on it's age, as should an impeller that's seen 200 hours in the last year. An unused impeller takes a "set" which will make it useless, if it sits inside it's housing the whole time. All manufactures recommend impeller replacement every year or after a specific amount of hours of use. Mercruiser recommends you check it every 50 hours, which suggests how long they really last.

  12. #86
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    Perth
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    All manufactures recommend impeller replacement every year or after a specific amount of hours of use
    Dunno bout that these days Par.

    Its still good advice (don't get me wrong) just that these new evil techs say don't bring that engine back for a service for the first 3 years - so they obviously expect the impeller to last at least that long.

    I used to change ine out at 400 hours and they were still like new, and working fine, I just did it as a precaution. I'm at 880 hours on both engines and they are still working fine but I will swap them out again just to be on the safe side.

    Nothing worse than being stuck when they do fail - but also no need to do them every 50 hours now either... & UNLESS, you have one of these flats boats with surface piercing props & Bobs Machine Shop low water pickups way down on the bottom of the skeg & your running in 6 inches of water over the flats all the time sucking in grit and shells. That will chew out impellers pretty quick... not so much "normal use" tho in my experience.

    Others nautical mileage may vary!

  13. #87
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    Agreed, but Mercruiser suggests just checking it at 50 hours. I've seen them last a few years, I've seen them die after a few hours. Most new engines have a "special" impeller installed at the factory, that is of better quality. Aftermarket stock is notorious for taking a dump after a year. Lastly, manufactures also are playing the "numbers" game. They know they'll be out of warranty by the time the impeller takes a crap. They also know most will have been sold or are languishing in a car port, unused, neither of which will cause warranty issues, which is all they're concerned about.

    As a rule I change impellers every year (or so), but I also use my boats, probably more then most, except professional fisherman and coasties.

  14. #88
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    May 2010
    Location
    melbourne
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    Default The project/trailer

    Ivee been doing some work on the trailer.
    The mudguards had all but fallen off as they were welded to the main frame of the trailer but there was no support for the top of them so,they flexed, vibrated and broke the welds.

    They are not going anywhere now as I have bolted some extra supports to the top of the guards and onto the top of the main frame of the trailer.

    It is a matter now of filling out the paperwork and getting to Vicroads to get it registered. There is no inspection or roadworthy required. Fill out the paperwork, book an appointment and get the paperwork authorised, pay the required fee and away we go.

    I will probably get it ready for rego,over the weekend and go there next week.
    If i have time this week I will rebolt the sump in place. I have read the manual am staggerednatbthe amount of oil this thing holds. Including the oil filter it holds, according to the manual, 6 quarts. Which is 12 pints or 1.5 gallons of oil. I know I drained a heck of a lot out. All told about 7 litres.
    Cheers for now
    peter

  15. #89
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    May 2010
    Location
    melbourne
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    Default Engine and trailer

    Since my last post I have made steady progress.
    i have removed the timber skids from the trailer. I was hoping to be able to use the timber for the skids again after recovering with new old carpet. We found some fairly good carpet in the hard rubbish collection just down the road. The colour doesn't really match the boat but it was free so the colour is perfect!!!
    I purchased some new Oregon and fitted the new skids last Saturday. I reused the old bolts to mount them. I had to replace a couple that were undersized for the holes. It's amazing what some people do rather than get the right size nuts and bolts.
    Over the coming week I will remove the skids, give them a quick sand and a couple of coats of varnish then cut and nail the carpet padding on them.
    The lights and wiring need to be replaced before I can get it registered. Which is the next major job to do on the trailer.

    With the engine i have replaced the spark plugs, I have cleaned out the sump a couple of times to ensure that there was no crud left behind in any crevices. Today, I reinstalled the sump. It took a bit of fiddling to get it to sit in place initially because I have the engine just off the ground not an an engine stand.

    The Y block weighs in at about 650lb/300kg. I have an engine stand that can hold 550lb/250kg but I thought that it was a bit much to ask of it.

    I have bought a new fuel pump which has been installed. I am going to put a kit through the carby before I try and start the engine. All indications are that the engine should be fine. Time will tell.

  16. #90
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    May 2010
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    melbourne
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    Default Been a bit slack

    Since my last posting I have been a bit slack and not done much. The repairs to the trailer have continued. I have replaced the skids with new Oregon which has a coat of decking stain as a preservatve. The skids have been reinstalled. This weekend I will pad the skids and then cover them with carpet. I have also replaced a number of bolts that were just mild steel so I have replaced them with stainless steel ones. I have painted most of the trailer but will remove the winch today, ditch the cable, clean and grease the bushes then install the new webbing strap.
    Depending on what the condition of the winch cable is like when I take it off I will think about keeping it as a "just in case". Then paint the bow sampson post on the trailer and get ready to rebolt in place the winch.

    Registration is then ready to happen which is fairly straight forward and doesn't require any form of inspection.

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