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  1. #16
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    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    Thanks Jeff,
    I haven't yet had a good look at the inside, but I think underneath the badly flaking paint is good timber. Scraping or stripping the paint inside has to be the worst job I know. I'm tempted to investigate getting it soda blasted. Does anyone have any experience with this?
    As it's impossible to encapsulate, once I get back to clean timber the plan was to paint only. But I'm open to other logic.
    The project will slow a bit over the next 2 months with a few other jobs on the go.

    Mark

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    191

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    Fibreglass and epoxy complete on the outside. The final sanding will wait until later when I'm ready to paint. She's back in the slings ready to turn over tomorrow - just waiting for the last coat of epoxy to cure. I guess the photos all look a bit the same at the moment - can't be helped.phone 8.4.13 083.jpgphone 8.4.13 084.jpg

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Morgan SA
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    191

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    Work is continuing.
    The last couple of months have been busy with non putt putt stuff- particularly with my house needing to be slipped.
    The Simplex has been disappointing. I was told "rebuilt 14 years ago and not started since" and silly me I accepted this as being somewhere near the truth. It seems only the second part of the story is true. It probably hasn't been started in this time but it was never rebuilt!
    A new sparkplug is the only likely attention she has had. Most water passages were totally blocked, big end sloppy, crank and clutch bearings rusted and I haven't dismantled the water pump or starter yet.
    I hope the very milky oil was a result of spending more years outside than I was told and not something more serious.
    Anyway, I'm not really whinging - maybe just annoyed that I was too trusting.
    So various parts are at the engineers being machined, new bearings and gasket kit are at hand. Ahh, the rich tapestry of restorations!
    Mark

  5. #19
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Morgan SA
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    Work has progressed. The inside has been scraped, sanded, primed and undercoated. Countless hours of bending to remind me why restorations can be a challenge.
    But it's exciting to be putting things back together instead of tearing them apart.
    Decks are framed using some old timbers and some new. The plan is for a 6mm ply deck base with kauri laid on top.
    The steamer is my first attempt at such - a 3.3m length of 150mm pvc with dowels inserted every 300mm to support the timber. The plan is to bend a 3.2 length of 140 x 12 blackwood for the forward section of the coaming. I've fired it up and it seems to work if a slow but steady stream of steam out of the vent is any indication. Fingers crossed.
    IMG_00000006.jpgIMG_00000005.jpgIMG_00000007.jpg

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    191

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    Painting is completed inside with 2 coats of epoxy enamel.
    Steamed the blackwood coaming today. I was a bit dubious but it went very well. A mate and I had to apply a fair bit of force but it bent to the required shape with no signs of cracking or checking.

    IMG_00000013.jpgIMG_00000014.jpg

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    191

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    The coaming is complete and the base deck glued down. It's good to be able to see some shape now.
    IMG_00000089.jpg

    I've placed the old floor supports in place to check the fit and alignment.
    IMG_00000090.jpg IMG_00000091.jpg
    Each of the 2 frames for the engine bed are held by a bolt through the keel and 4 bolts through the hull.

    All the other supports were screwed into the ribs on which they sit, with a spacer block onto the keel. It's not a lot of purchase for those screws, and most had pulled out.

    A few questions come to mind.
    • Is there a better way to support the floor rather than all these individual frames? What about longitudinal frames which tie the engine bed in as well? Or doesn't it really matter seeing as how they're only supporting a floor?
    • If I stick with this arrangement, would a good smear of sikaflex be preferable to the screws?
    • And what is the short light coloured block for? It's a little low for the floor to rest on, is angled on the undersides steeper than the hull, and is bolted through the hull. Why so much support? Does it have something to do with the sailing setup? I know very little about sailing so I'm at a loss.


    IMG_00000092.jpg

    Mark

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    I'm not sure what the little block is for, though it could be a step for a compression post, but I think it's just a load bearer for the forward end of the keel, which would be common in an inboard powered boat. It helps unify the assembly and spread engine torque through the keel, into the planking. This little block you've mentioned, looks to be in the wrong location to me. It looks like it belongs farther forward, probably directly under the on deck mast step. In this location, she'd have a compression post fitted between the deck step and the block. This prevents rigging tension from crushing the mast through the deck.

    Longitudinal stringers are a way to go, but a bit of a belt and suspenders approach. Lapstrake hulls have a great deal of longitudinal strength and stiffness, because of the planking. This is why the have closely space athwart frames. I use longitudinal stringers and molds frequently, because they're typically less numerous then conventional stringers and floors or sole supports, but you have to make this framing decision in the beginning of the design process, because the idea is to save weight, with their use, while still having the same stiffness.

    In either case (longitudinal or athwart supports), putting in a sole wouldn't be especially challenging. Since the athwart frames are already there, I'd be inclined to use them, placing some 1x2's in appropriate locations to hold up a set of slats for a sole.

    I wouldn't use an adhesive/sealant (Sikaflex) on this assembly. Lapstrakes like to "move" underway, especially if powered. This is normal and required for load transmission. If you lock down a section with an adhesive, you'll isolate localized loads, which tends to cause other structural elements to take up the load transmissions and they may not be sized for this increase in tension or compression.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Morgan SA
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    Thanks Par,
    I guess the photo doesn't show the mast setup well. There is a hardwood block bolted to the keel forward of the first floor support. The post steps into that and passes through the deck. A couple of hardwood cheeks are then fastened to the top of the post.
    There is a single hole in each cheek for a pin to secure or pivot the mast.

    The block in question in my previous post is softwood by the way. I don't know if that means anything, but t may suggest it was not designed to take too much weight or strain

    Mark.

  10. #24
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    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    191

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    It's been a while since an update but a lot of fiddly stuff has been happening.
    Gunwales and stringers are on and in. I used "forest red' from Bunnings. A selection of 'red hardwood species' according to the Boral website. Quite a pleasing red colour and the right price.
    Sole is meranti. Not your usual outdoor timber, but 'cos I had a heap, for a trailer boat it should be fine. I can remove the partially reassembled engine now and get back to finishing it.
    Deck is blackwood (same as coaming) and kauri. The recycled kauri has some light staining in places. As the eventual clear finish is likely to highlight these marks rather than obscure them I may play around with colour staining some offcuts to hide the marks. Or just accept them as patina.

    IMG_00000162.jpgIMG_00000164.jpgIMG_00000163.jpgIMG_00000152_2.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NSW, Australia
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    474

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    Coming along nicely, and looking rather posh.
    You know you're making progress when there's sawdust in your coffee.

  12. #26
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    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    Progress on the boat has been a little slow over Christmas / New Year.
    However work has continued on the engine. It's a lot brighter and shinier now, and importantly, it runs
    No water leaks or oil leaks and starts easily.
    It runs quite smoothly at low revs but gets a bit of a wobble up at higher revs. While it's not secured very well currently, I do wonder about the fly wheel. It had heavy flaky rust on one section which once cleaned off has probably left it unbalanced.
    How do I check and (if required) rebalance the fly wheel?

    As an aside I can't post photos in the old style. All I get are the thumb nails you see below. Any ideas for a fix?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #27
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    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    The balance may be off, very slightly on the cleaned flywheel, but it shouldn't vibrate much, so the engine should be inspected for shaft runout, etc. These things where built like tanks, so I suspect something is bent. You can have the flywheel "dynamically" balanced at a machine shop. I would do this if you've checked the shaft runout and other portions of the reciprocating assembly and they came out looking pretty round and tight.

  14. #28
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    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    Runout appears ok.
    I saw an article which suggested balancing a flywheel by balancing it on a large ball bearing (or similar). Then weight is added until it stays level.
    I may give this a go. Nothing to lose I guess

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    The ball bearing trick is a "static" balance, which is fine for some things, but not especially accurate at high speed. What you want is a "dynamic" balance, where it's spun up to speed and weight(s) added or holes drilled to lighten in very specific locations, much like the way they balance a tire on it's rim, for your car.

    How much run out was on the shaft? The spec will be fairly tight. Then again I could be all wrong about the run out and you may have an internal issue. I had an odd rod bolt on a single cylinder motorcycle engine drive me nuts, until I torn the engine apart (again) and started weighing stuff. One rod bolt weighed nearly twice as much as it's brother, enough to cause her to vibrate badly.

  16. #30
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    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    Upside down again.
    A quick tidy up then bolted the engine bed through the hull. Undercoat and 3 top coats. Might have to buy myself a spray gun one day.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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