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Thread: Putt putt rebuild
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25th May 2014, 06:09 PM #31
Getting close to finished. Just gotta make engine box and oars. It should be ready for the putt putt gathering in June in Morgan. If you are interested look at morganlivingriver.com.au.
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In this second photo, you will see that the sole is held down with bronze screws. There are 4 panels forming the sole (2 in the photo) and 4 screws in each panel. This is not a good system as it is too difficult to remove each panel to clean, sop up water etc. Any ideas on what I can replace the screws with? The slats are only about 8mm thick.
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25th May 2014 06:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th May 2014, 08:31 AM #32Member
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can you make the slats a panel, held together by another couple of slats underneath, hidden, and only secured to the boat by four screws, one in each corner of the slat panel. like a slat bed base
looks good, i have been wanting to build one like this or slightly longer for a long time, and am just starting to research an electric motor with batteries instead of a traditional fuel engine.I forgot what i was taught, I only remember what I have learnt
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27th May 2014, 08:53 AM #33
[QUOTE]That's pretty much what I have at present. The 12 slats you see in the photo comprise 2 panels - 1 port and 1 starboard. Each of these panels is held down by 4 screws. But to lift a panel is a bit laborious, hence the want for a quick release fixing of some sort.
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27th May 2014, 09:03 AM #34looks good, i have been wanting to build one like this or slightly longer for a long time, and am just starting to research an electric motor with batteries instead of a traditional fuel engine.
I have a full set of plans - unused - for David Payne's Snapper Boat. In fact there is a previous thread on here somewhere talking about my intention to build it. 18' & can be built in carvel or clinker. pm me if interested.
Mark
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27th May 2014, 09:26 PM #35
Well as they say in the classics "that's all folks". There are still a few more coats of varnish to put on the engine box, oars to make, mast to resurrect one day and all the other bits that keep us tied to our sheds . It's been an enjoyable 18 month project and the next one awaits (17' Clausen with twin Blaxland).
A quick maiden voyage went without a hitch. I'll add a picnic basket and a bottle of red for the next voyage. And some rego numbers if they ever arrive.
If you missed the earlier post don't miss our function on the Murray in June. See morganlivingriver.com.au.
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Mark
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31st May 2014, 08:07 PM #36Senior Member
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Hi Kingfisher
Regarding your Floor Boards - you could review the work I did in my thread "Tom Cat"post #162. My boards are thicker but if your boards are 8mm, a 3mm toggle in brass or bronze may still fill the bill. Just a thought.
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1st June 2014, 09:43 AM #37
Thanks Dry Water,
I remembered your post but couldn't remember which thread it was on so thanks for the pointer. It may be a good solution. How did you cut and shape the rebates in the sole?
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1st June 2014, 12:33 PM #38Senior Member
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Floor Board Hold Down
This was achieved by clamping a filler piece in the gap between the boards and used a forstner bit to rout out the rebate. Worked like a charm. The more difficult bit was constructing the toggle base. A fair bit of mucking around but well worth it in the end.
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1st June 2014, 02:26 PM #39
Thanks Dry Water, I'll give it a go I reckon
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5th June 2014, 07:45 PM #40
Looks good
thanks for taking us along with you on the journeyregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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14th June 2014, 08:40 PM #41Senior Member
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Looks brilliant, kudos to you
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13th July 2014, 09:02 PM #42
Well I'm back again. It seems a project is never quite finished.
The sole is now secured with 3mm thick brass buttons - thanks Drywater. And yes, it was fiddly, but works well.
I'm now resurrecting the mast (about 4m long). Fortunately the timber is in very good condition. A good sand and many coats of varnish will do the job.
However it came without mast band or rigging and I know practically nothing about sailing.
Chances are I will never sail her so the mast will be mostly for appearances. However I guess the rigging should be to spec just in case.
My question relates to the stays themselves. There is one stay to go forward - I guess I'll have to mount a bronze loop of some sort on the back of the bow post to attach this (?).
Then there are 2 stays aft to chain plates cut into the gunwales - sort of visible in post 31.
So what wire is best to use?
Do I put a thimble at the top of each stay and attach with a D shackle to the mast band?
What about the attachment at the bottom? I have been advised that this is best achieved with a lashing. If so, what sort of end should be on the stay, and what sort of knots are best?
Or do I just do the whole lot with rope and upgrade to wire if a sail is added?
Ahhh ...... decisions and thank you in anticipation to the sailors amongst you.
Mark
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14th July 2014, 01:36 PM #43
Line will hold up a mast, but not very well, especially if you want to sail. If you elect to use line, use a Spectra core, which has the lowest stretch. As for attachments, you can use lanyards and deadeyes, but these where tossed aside in less then a generation, once modern metal rigging tangs and turnbuckles where invented. The reason is simple, wire rigging and the associated hardware remain hard and hold their length by an order of magnitude, compared to line rigging and lashings. Line rigging will need constant adjustment to keep things "in column" and taunt enough to sail reasonably well. No line rigged boat will sail as well as high tech synthetics or wire rigged, because of stretch.
The head stay (wire the jib is on) is usually strapped to a stem, not bolted. Shrouds (wires on the sides of masts) also are usually attached to a strap like piece, not bolts or eyes. This is because you can spread the loads over a larger area. These loads can be considerable. On a regular cruising boat, I spec the weakest link of the rig to double the full up displacement of the boat. So, on a 1,000, fully loaded boat (as a small boat example), I'd use a forged, stainless 7 1/2" long 1/2" shank turnbuckle, which has a working load limit of 2,200 pounds, slightly over the 2:1 ratio I'd like. Yep, heavy, but in a hard gust or knock down, the loads can get very close to this, let alone a capsize or getting tossed of a wave top on your beam ends.
The same applies to wiring wire, so a 1/16" 7x19 stainless wire will have about a 500 pound breaking strength, so I'd spec 1/8", which is a little light at 1,750 or 5/32" which is 2,400 pounds. The rule is work around the strength you need, knowing one element will be the weakest link, which often is also the smallest, like a clevis pin.
Log onto mast builder and supply sites and look up the usual way things are attached to a wooden boat. These parts are very different compared to 'glass boats with aluminum masts.
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17th July 2014, 09:59 AM #44
Thanks PAR.
I have no intention of sailing at this stage, in fact I don't even have spars or sails, so I reckon I'll just line rig for the time being.
Thanks for the tip on the mast building websites. I had been looking at wire supply sites with little joy.
Mark
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24th July 2014, 10:59 PM #45Novice
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G'day Kingfisher,
Here's my two bob's worth. The mast step is tabernacled meaning that the mast will have a single bolt through the bottom and will swing up into position from that.
The stays can either be stainless 3mm (or 4mm tops) or just rope. The traditional couta boat just used hemp rope. I'd probably use stainless wire.
shackles top & bottom for side stays. Go to the local chandelry and get thimbles swaged into both ends of all three stays - 2 sidestays & 1 forestay.
Make the side stays to exact length - takings into account the shackes top & bottom
install the ring on the stem
make the forestay about 120-150mm shorter than it needs to be.
Attach the top of the forestay with a shackle
Attach a piece of chord - say 3mm to the end of the bottom of the forestay about 1m long
When you raise the mast, loop the chord at the end of the forestay through the bow ring then back through the thimble at the bottom of the forestay about 4 or 5 times - which will give you plenty of purchase to tighten the rig. It doesn't need much tension at all especially if it's just for show. Then secure the loops with a couple of half hitches.
If you're going to use rope, just attach to the top of the mast band via a shackle with a bowline, same with the bottom of the sidestays - again fixed length, and tie a ring onto the bottom of the forestay and use the same purchase chord to get the tension
thinking about - whoops - just an eye splice into all the ends - much neater
This is a simple rig with only one adjustment point and works very well. Hope this helps
Cheers
Rod
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