Thread: An Old Starling

Hi Vann,
Horse supports - I would have no issue with any of the timbers mentioned. Clear finish may add some contrast but needs a LOT more maintenance than paint. If the rest of the boat is painted I would do the same with these. But that's me. There's an argument for learning about different processes and materials too.
I would have no problem leaving the screws in so long as they are perfectly sealed off to ensure that moisture won't cause the rust to bleed through. But if you leave them in, can you still put in new screws to secure the stay? I would be inclined to remove them however you can. Drill, chisel, whatever works. Then fill the holes with epoxy. You can then redrill, paint etc.
There are many opinions on paint. I've used good quality 'household' oil based enamels with success. Marine paints do seem to be harder though so they put up with more abrasion. With the small area you have I suggest the extra cost of a marine paint is worth it.
Cheers, Mark

What a great little project boat! I personally would remove the rusted steel screws and execute as per Kingfisher's advice.

I found Norglass paints are best value over say some of the other premium paints on the market. The quality of the base materials in the Norglass stuff becomes apparent once you have used it over say the 'household' variety, athough Altex coatings are made in NZ?-Why not try them if the budget is tight.

Regardless you will achieve a much superior finish that will last loner and not chalk or chip as easily. Cheers

Thanks for the helpful replies.

Originally Posted by Vann

...Third: As she's paying, my daughter asks if there are any cheaper alternatives to marine/boat paints?

More questions to come no doubt.

We've decided on International (formerly Epiglass) Epifill to fill multiple defects, including replacing about 50% of the holes left by failing putty over the nails that hold the boat together. We're part way through this.

This will be followed by Altex Multipurpose Primer; Altex Surfacer Undercoat; and then most likely Altex Regatta Gloss Enamel. These are all single pot marine paints.

Now a forth question: We will clear finish some of the wooden trim. We've found the trim around centrecase is held on by chromed steel screws. The chrome is at the end of it's life (saved just in time) so I'm looking at new screws. I have a supply of brass screws - are these acceptable in a marine environment, or do I have to use stainless screws?

Cheers, Vann.

Brass is fine, it’s all my old man used to use, before stainless came down in price. My 40 year old timber boat has thousands of brass screws in it. Also, when you’re painting, between your undercoat and top coats, do a coat of 50/50 undercoat and top coat, it’s an old trick I learned when I painted boats at RPAYC, and it gives the top coat a lot better “bite” , also, use a little bit of penetrol ( an additive) in your primer, and buy a big pack of cheesy tack cloths, and use them whenever you think, especially after sanding. Good Luck ��