Thread: More steering advice needed, please.

You're using a "whip" tackle to grab your steering arm, which isn't necessary except on really heavy motors. If you do use this setup, then keep the spring and first turning block relatively close to each other, for maximum mechanical advantage.

As far as I can see, except for the angles the cable land on the steering arm, both of these arrangements are the same. The top one is better from a mechanical advantage point of view and the pickup points appear to be roughly along the arc of tiller arm travel, which is also desirable.

Thanks for the advice PAR. I should have stated that I am not using this setup to turn an outboard motor. My boat is powered by an inboad Yanmar diesel which does about 8 knots flat out. The rudder is made of marine ply and swings on gudgeons and pintles at the stern, it has a stainless steel bracket which passes through the hull from near the top of the rudder (see photo).

I will heed your advice about the positioning of the springs. Is it necessary to have the springs at the ends of the cable or can they be placed somewhere along it's length?

Another big concern however is the all the 90 degree bends I have to put in the cable to reach the rear of the boat. I'm thinking that they might make the steering wheel too stiff to turn, what are your thoughts on this?

redx.

Any time you have a number of pulleys, you can expect some friction to decrease the leverage available. In your situation, you have little choice, so . . . Ball bearing blocks can reduce this considerably, though at significant cost. Ronstan has some moderately priced ball bearing blocks.

The springs can be anywhere along the length of the cables, though easy access is important.

The whip tackle you've shown will probably be more then enough leverage for your rudder. If you need more leverage, just use a longer tiller arm.

The turning block on either side of the tiller should align with the terminated ends (where you have the springs) for best mechanical advantage. Basicly you place the terminated end above or below the turning block, making a 180 angle from the tiller to the block and back to the termination. If possable draw out the arc of the tiller sweep and place the turning block on this line.

Well PAR I guess the best way to find any faults with the setup is to try it out. I will keep your advice in mind as I put it all together. Thanks again for the great help.

Cheers,
redx.

You'll be fine, just watch out for friction and good "fair" leads to each turning block.