Thread: Strip planking

Right White ... or is it Wood ... or maybe Mr Wood (giveus a name ya silly bugga ),

You've got a week to make a sale

In the thread about bending long bits of timber, http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...ad.php?t=71631
you'll see my struggle to make some coamings for Sixpence.

How would Paulonia go for that job? 90x14mm timber. Big bend along the edge as well as along the face. In a couple of weeks I'll have the super steamer ready to melt the timber into submission.

Exams this week but I'll be making decisions and buying timber in the following week (yes children, this project is alive, just not progressing )

Richard

This is what the Paulownia looks like with one layer of 125gsm glass and epoxy resin.

The first kayak has WRC of about average darkness.

The second has redwood stripes.

do you do then with the core cove moldings?

Originally Posted by weisyboy

do you do then with the core cove moldings?

I'm pretty sure your question is directed to Whitewood to see if he can supply bead and cove.

However just in case you were asking me if that is how I used the strips, the answer is no, I just bevel the edges.

"Right White ... or is it Wood ... or maybe Mr Wood (giveus a name ya silly bugga ),

You've got a week to make a sale

In the thread about bending long bits of timber, http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...ad.php?t=71631
you'll see my struggle to make some coamings for Sixpence.

How would Paulonia go for that job? 90x14mm timber. Big bend along the edge as well as along the face. In a couple of weeks I'll have the super steamer ready to melt the timber into submission."

Richard,

For the record my name is John, Paulownia is a white wood, My surname is White. Using whitewood for a forum name seemed appropiate.
In your original post you indicated that you wanted a reddish timber for this reason alone Paulownia would not qualify.
On the question as to whether Paulownia would do for the job I am not qualified to answer. Perhaps you could direct the question to Michael Storer as he has discussed the qualities of Paulownia for boat building and should be able to give you an answer.

Carl,

10 years ago I started out with the intention of only growing Paulownia, in my retirement. 2 years ago I added milling to my skills so someone could buy my timber, next came marketing Paulownia and recently I added some basic forms of timber processing. I don't do cove and beading and don't really want to start.
Most boat builders have their own method/size of planking and I leave it to them to prepare the planks. I will dress the timber if that will help them.

John

Originally Posted by Daddles

How would Paulonia go for that job? 90x14mm timber. Big bend along the edge as well as along the face. In a couple of weeks I'll have the super steamer ready to melt the timber into submission.
Richard

Last dumb question for today (if in SA, first dumb question for the easterners among us)...

Daddles, how come you aren't laminating these up out of suitable veneers ?

cheers
Alan J

Originally Posted by b.o.a.t.

Last dumb question for today (if in SA, first dumb question for the easterners among us)...

Daddles, how come you aren't laminating these up out of suitable veneers ?

cheers
Alan J

Not the 12 foot bits along the side I'm not. Cripes mate, where ya been? Missed all the drama.

John, As for the colour being white. I knew that and am also considering Tassie Oak. Originally I wanted to match the reddish timber and will still be looking at Meranti in an effort do so, but am also considering the benefits of white timber giving some contrast, espescially given the white colour of the foredeck. If I go with a white timber along the sides, I'll have to redo the curved bit around the front, but now that I have the steamer, that's doable with planks.

Richard

Originally Posted by Daddles

Not the 12 foot bits along the side I'm not. Cripes mate, where ya been? Missed all the drama.
Richard

I know yer not laminating them. Thort that was the cause of the drama.

Dave down at Flat Duck did the coamings of his Catboat in several layers of 5mm bendy plywood. Capped with something nice they are as solid as & cost barely a drop of sweat or tears.
I use a single thickness of it for the vertical part of the coamings of my kayaks. Works like a charm. As silly as it sounds, I keep a sheet of plywood rolled up in the shed to avoid these dramas.

But since you are so keen on making this rod for your own back, mind if i come round & beat you with it occasionally ? ;-)

cheers

Plywood is a nice idea but considering that I'd need more than one sheet to do the job thanks to the vertical curves (have you price plywood recently?)

Richard

plywoods not that dear.

we got enought 7mm marine ply to do the entire hull on a 21" 8" wide displacement hull with 3 sheets left over for less than a grand.

Originally Posted by Daddles

Plywood is a nice idea but considering that I'd need more than one sheet to do the job thanks to the vertical curves (have you price plywood recently?)

Richard

Got mine from a bloke at heathfield on Longwood Rd. A back-yarder. Found him in the yellow pages.
First or second house on the left past Heathfield Rd heading south. 4 years ago, my sheet of 5mm
bendy cost about $50. Have only used about half of it so no, haven't re-priced the stuff.
I haven't priced clear hardwood planks lately either (how many have broken so far?)

I suppose another option may be to build bracing jigs up on the deck & strip plank the coamings ?
Would keep the compound curve planks to manageable (and bendable) widths, & you'd still have an
excuse for a steaming booz.... I mean working bee.

cheers
AJ

Originally Posted by weisyboy

plywoods not that dear.

we got enought 7mm marine ply to do the entire hull on a 21" 8" wide displacement hull with 3 sheets left over for less than a grand.

Okay, let's look at a few facts.

I need 12mm at least for the coaming. You won't get that to behave on the bendy bits so I'll need two layers of 6mm. Thanks to the vertical curves and the width of the coaming, you don't get a hell of a lot out of a sheet. I'll need two sheets to do the sides (that's without the curve at the front). That's about $230. Even Pacific Maple would cost me $160 at the moment. That's before you buy the capping and isn't allowing for the extra epoxy needed to laminate the two layers together.

The two planks that I tried to fit in the last exercise cost me $30 (total). No, it didn't work but that was poor timber selection and an inadequate steamer. A quick look at Paulonia pricing puts it at about the same price (and twice the thickness I need - yum, wood chips )
I can actually afford to buy the new burner and new timber for less than the cost of the plywood.

Now, let's look at the curve at the front of the cockpit. I'd have needed a half sheet of 6mm to do that. You can't buy bendy in 12mm (not from Ducks, maybe elsewhere, I haven't looked as to date, I don't need it) so I'd need 2 layers of 6mm. That's about $80 worth of plywood. I've laminated it with a little under $15 worth of veneers.

It's easy to say 'ply is cheap' or 'it only cost me such and such' but you need to consider the task and the amount of waste that results from cutting curves in flat stock.

The reality though is that marine ply is bloody expensive stuff. You can save money by going to cheaper plywood if you like, but that's not the standard of the build. I love marine ply but it's not always the cheapest choice for some jobs ... whereas it's clearly the best choice for others.

Richard

Heya B.O.A.T.

Not meaning to hijack this thread, but can you please provide some more information on your kayak mate.