Tassie Oak or Pine stringers?

**TK1** · 16th March 2009, 04:45 PM

Hi all,

I am about to start construction of a Skin On Frame kayak (based on one of Tom Yost's designs, see yostworks.com).

I intend this to be a quick build as I am going to Jindabyne at Easter and hope to take it with me to paddle in the lakes up there - easier than carting my heavier S&G kayak, and able to stroe it inside the villa.

So, rather than ripping stringers from WRC, I was hoping to use Tassie Oak or (Radiata) Pine Porta-mouldings from Bunnings, as they're pre-dimensioned to the size I need.

I know they're not the ideal boat-building woods, but will be encapsulated in epoxy and (hopefully) not put under too much duress.

Any thoughts from others that know about wood, or have used either in kayak/canoe/boat construction? I'm leaning towards TO as although a bit heavier, seems stronger.

Thanks,
Darren

**HOOKED.UP** · 16th March 2009, 05:00 PM

I would not use Radiata, for any boat building project.

It is rubbish. Classified as a weed here in Tas, even though, heeps is grown for the paper industry.

The only use it has is temorary molds etc.

The oak will be O K, if it is air dried.

Other wise it will not take glues too well and will move quite a lot when it does dry out.

If you are looking to keep you vessel for any number of years, I would suggest buying a more suitable timber.

Paul.

**TK1** · 16th March 2009, 08:50 PM

Hi,

I agree on the Radiata.

Tas Oak was a quick, pre-dimensioned option. But I may be able to get some dimensioned Paulownia, so if the price is OK that will be my choice.

The original plans call for WRC but I'll increase the size of the stringers slightly to add a bit of bulk in Paulownia.

Regards,
Darren

**Boatmik** · 17th March 2009, 10:42 AM

Howdy,

The Oak will be much better than the pine, but it is heavyish.

Does have a nice straight grain and is usually pretty dry and stable which is good.

You can trim of weight by heavy radiusing the edges on the inside of the boat ... the oak is also a lot stronger than the spruce or other softwood that I would guess was the original specification.

(spruce in oz is expensive and often terribly twisty ... worse than radiata)

MIK

**TK1** · 17th March 2009, 04:47 PM

Hi Mik,

Thanks for the reply. I've since thought about it, and ordered some stringers from Port Phillip Plantation Shutters, who are near me and supply Paulownia cut to size. So tomorrow I pick up my lengths of dimensioned, knot-free stringers which can just slot into the forms with no extra work form me, for around $70. Too easy

and lighter than WRC (although I'll still round the inside edges).

Should have the whole kayak built for under $200

Regards,
Darren

**anewhouse** · 20th March 2009, 06:56 PM

Darren
I just completed a SOF with Paulownia stringers.
They seemed to do the job OK.
Allan

**Boatmik** · 20th March 2009, 07:35 PM

Howdy... with the Paulownia ... don't round the inside edges much .... just a minimum.

If you had gone with Tassie Oak you could trim some of the weight off as the timber is so strong. But leave the paulownia much as it is ... just take a little off for aesthetics

MIK

**TK1** · 20th March 2009, 09:49 PM

Hi Allan,

I picked up my Paulownia stringers yesterday. Lovely! Enough to do the whole kayak, plus a bit spare, and weighed almost nothing. I'm looking forward to a nice, light kayak. Will probably use this for my Night Heron too.

Pics to fololw....

Regards,
Darren

**Daddles** · 22nd March 2009, 11:08 AM

Hmm, all my oars are made out of Radiata

but that's because I'm cheap

It's okay in its place ... like something you can throw away if it doesn't work, which doesn't include hull timbers.

Richard

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