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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth, straya
    Posts
    20

    Default Tirrik build in Perth

    My apologies for the delay. At long last here are some pictures of my Tirrik in the build phase. I started three years ago and had hoped to finish at the end of the first year, however life got in the way and I am still plugging away 275 hours into it. I took Mr Storer's advice and built the spars, rudder and centreboard first. Mainly because with a hull in the way I would have nowhere to build them, especially the spars.

    One area of mild confusion is the bilge runners as they are called on the plans. Page two has them on the garboard but hard up against the next strake at station four. Which means they either climb onto the next strake if they are supposed to be straight or follow the curve of the strake. Page three of the plans implies they sit on the second strake and follow the curve of the joint. Of the pictures I have seen on the net one has done it the page three way and another the angle is to low but they appear to be a page two variation.
    To summarise my options would be;
    1) On the second strake following the joint as per page three.
    2) On the garboard following the joint.
    3) On the garboard more towards the keel and straight.
    4) No bilge runners.

    I will mostly sail off sandy beaches so no bilge runners could be possible unless they do something else like stiffen the garboards. The second photo shows I am putting a jarrah sacrificial strip on the keel. Aside from the sacrificial aspect it also lets me improve the curve of the stem and stern as I botched the cutting of that curve. I am not intending to put brass strip on at this point but it is something that can easily be done later if my guesses on wear and tear are completely wrong.
    Turnover is next weekend. I will have to turn it back over later for final finishing as I think the moulds are firmly stuck into the boat. Must be one of those beginners things

    DN

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Probably not a biggie. Put a straight edge on the keel perpendicular to the centreline and see where it touches down to give you an idea of how the boat will sit.

    All those schemes sound fine. The main thing is that the edge of the first plank above the garboard is vulnerable and needs to be protected.

    MIK

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth, straya
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Thanks for the reply BoatMik. Seems like another one of those things I can procrastinate over until I have the boat fitted out and upside down again. The plans have generally been very good and what with his book and the various forums it has given me the confidence to get to this point. In fact I was originally going to build from a kit but doing the spars and foils first gave me the confidence to give the rest a go from scratch. So I might have been further ahead by now but my wallet would have been further behind.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    Any thoughts on how she'll work as a pure rowboat?

    Richard
    exposing basic fetishes

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth, straya
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Whilst it has been a consideration that there be adequate rowing performance I have no idea at this stage how good it might be.


    My original choice of boat was a Caledonia Yawl based in part on the song by the Beach Boys “I wish they all could be (Caledonia Yawls)”, later covered by David Lee Roth. Just consulting Wikipedia for this pithy one liner it appears that the British Caledonia Airlines also had this idea back in the 1980’s. One reason the boat was rejected was I didn’t want to use a motor and the CY allegedly doesn’t row very well with one person. Also it would be slightly too big for my building space.


    My next consideration was the Ness Yawl after seeing all those T-Shirts and hats with I (cardioid) NY slogans I realised it must be a popular boat. But it was also to long for the space available.


    I had my heart set on the Arctic Tern but a kit wasn’t available at the time so Tirrik it was. Which turned out to be about the largest I would want to build in the space available (I blame the pesky car).


    So from what I have read on the designers comments, it appears that it is more optimised for sailing then boats like the Whilly Boat which appear to be more dual use. So in short the answer is probably adequate. If I could also be more scientific I could say that I haven’t done much rowing so I don’t have a control as it’s called by the boffins. The last boat I sailed on was a UFO 34 which doesn’t row very well at all.
    Once the Ubeaut’s Wooden Boat Squadron - WA Division comes into being then some more accurate comparisons can be made. Do you have a timeframe for when you need your answer?
    Sorry I don’t think I can be much more help at this stage.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth, straya
    Posts
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    Default

    Whoops forgot to add ...



    Another consideration is I have absolutely no idea where to store the oars whilst sailing. Apparently eight and a half feet is considered adequate and I am hopeful they will just fit along the floors between the buoyancy tanks.

    I am considering using Mr Storer’s free oar plans with his considered opinion on which end I should cut six inches off. That being said there might be room for nine foot oars I’m not sure at this stage. I'll know exactly once the tanks are in.


    There could even be a build thread out of it.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
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    67
    Posts
    4,377

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    You've answered me question, thanks mate. On water reports will also be welcomed of course

    When I'm resizing oar plans, I scale the blade up or down (which you won't need to do for 6"), draw up the bit from the handle to the rowlock and just let the bit in the middle be whatever length it wants to be.

    Another alternative are telescopic oars. I've seen lots of designs for them, never seen or used any in real life but they could make storage problems disappear in some boats.

    Richard

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    Howdy, the way the oars are stored on the Goat Island skiff can be along the floor - they just fit - it was a fluke!), but a common more accessible way is to put the blades up in the bow and have the handles on top of the seat up against the side of the boat - one each side. The Tirrik might lack a bit of length for that, but worth considering.

    MIK

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth, straya
    Posts
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    We turned the boat today. It seemed to go well the boat did come clear of the moulds and was lifted off first and the boat placed upright. There were three screws that I failed to notice and or remember that broke free of the moulds. I guess hoop pine marine ply is stronger then MDF.
    Total cost of the turnover in beer and food was approximately $60. Gad that’s a fifth of a PDR!
    It’s tempting now to get a trailer to put it on rather then go to the trouble of making a temporary stand that I would never use again. I also don’t have the spare wood.

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