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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #391
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Default 176 Mast

    Painting has been completed and some further decision changes made in that space. In an effort to be as traditional as possible I decided not to worry about covering the dowels in the bottom section of the Mast and halted the painting process, where originally intended, at the Deck level. That puts the stoppage at the bottom of the thickness of the Mast Collar that it attached to the Deck so no paint above, just varnish. Besides this area will be covered with a Mast Boot at some later stage.

    Also completed are the attachment of the Boom Bolster and the added wooden fittings to assist the use of the Block and Tackle that enables the raising and lowering of the Gaff. I pinched this idea from the Wooden Boat School pics of their creation in this space with the addition of a Spacer Block attached to the Mast to keep the Block from hitting the Mast whilst in use.

    Just need to await the epoxy to cure before final sanding and cleanup prior to commencement of the varnish. Currently looking at approx. 7 coats minimum with the initial coat being 50/50 solvent/varnish.

    P1010638-1.JPG P1010639-1.JPG P1010640-1.JPG
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    The work on the trailer is complete although not finally affixed in place yet – I will await the actual on-boarding of the boat onto the trailer so that I can get that correct. Still some thinking of actual requirements to be completed with regard positioning of the Bunk Boards and Rollers etc and again will await the move which won’t come until the Mast is varnished and stored out of the way from where it is at the moment.
    Laurie - away from the sea

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  3. #392
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    Default 177 Mast Cont H…

    OK…so a fail with the varnish chosen ie. Norglass Weatherfast Poly Clear. The instructions dictate no thinning as I had previously intended so I went ahead without and followed the instructions on the label. Initial coat in 22deg temp so within the limits but ended up with brush marks in far too many places even though I was only coating about 400mm at a time. I sanded back to smooth out the marks and 24 hrs later tried again but covered less then 200mm at a time, unfortunately with similar results.

    Sit back and rethink the product…finally decided that I would switch to Feast Watson Spar Marine Varnish. However, will need to let the Norglass harden for an extra day prior to sanding smooth so tomorrow I will give it another shot.

    The FW product recommends sanding back to bare wood but not sure I want to go that far. Help! anybody out there with a recommendation as to product and/or appropriate change methodology?
    Laurie - away from the sea

  4. #393
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    Dec 2013
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    Wollongong
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    109

    Default

    I feel your pain on this one,with numerous failures of my own on varnish.

    My timberwork on the Tugboat was finished in FW Spar Marine. I have good results with Norglass finishes but only using their solid paints on flagpoles, boats etc .Their new clear finish is one I have not tried it out as yet.

    Getting back on the FW product, I thinned the first few coats using Pentrol, gradually building up in neat coats, of nine-ten in total. Almost three years on and I'm happy with the finish and although the boat is on a mooring, it also has full covers for sun protection. Fully exposed is a different story on some domestic cedar windows I did, which was looking very poor after only two years in the weather. I'm going back to Sikkens for anything that's always exposed on say workboats or domestic work, as I've tried everything else!

    If your wallet extends further, International Perfection will give you the ultimate and Ned Trewartha uses their clear finishes with exceptional results. I also noted most of the upmarket timber vessels also use it on number of visits made to the Hobart timber boat show.

    From what you have said, it does not seem as though you have stuffed up on prep or on other conditions and it could be risky applying another brand over the Norglass. Make sure you use the best quality brushes and try not to keep going back over your wet finish too often. By all means speak with Norglass as they generally have a very good helpline -Best of luck next time-Scott.

    .Front view May 15.jpgStarboard side 2 May 15.jpgCockpit work.jpg

  5. #394
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Default

    I've found foam brushes leave fewer brush strokes and of the ones they do leave, they'e small enough to "lay" down as the finish "relaxes" and starts to set. Slow, deliberate strokes and not too many, as most of these finishes don't like being over brushed. Foam brushes do take some getting use to, as they don't hold as much finish as a good bristle brush and they can drip if you try to load them up. This is easy enough to work around, just don't get greedy or things will drip and splatter.

    Consider trying the new Pettit "Sea Gold" stuff. It's water borne, which used to put me off automatically, but this stuff is nice. This is the 3rd generation for these water borne finishes and I think they've gotten it real close now. It seems to do everything well and I'm running some tests on it now, for durability, abrasion resistance, color changes, ease of application, etc. One note; use a sealer before applying this or any water borne finish on raw wood, as these tend to lift the grain quite a bit and the sealer will prevent this. This is a no sand between coats product, which most enjoy too. Initial observations are; it looks like many "plastic finishes" seeming to lay on top of the surface, lays down well, but not as well as synthetics with a slight thinning and it's not as shinny as many others, especially the synthetics.

  6. #395
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    Default

    Hi guys...a quick question on Mainsheet system. Should I go for a couple of Boom Bails or just a couple of bronze eye straps for the Block attachment?
    Laurie - away from the sea

  7. #396
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    Default 178 Mast Cont I...

    What can I say! I rolled over and continued with the Norglass product...so 4 coats on and it's been put into hibernation in the shed and will continue with 4 more coats once the boat has been transferred to its trailer.

    Next job is getting the boat off the build cradle onto the trailer.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  8. #397
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    Default 179 Trailer

    I purchased a stock standard 4M boat trailer from Swiftco but it required a few modifications. First thing to do was to remove the wobble rollers port and starboard and replace with Bunks. These have been manufactured from hardwood, primed and painted then the top edge and sides have been provided with a double layer of soft Cargo Matting then a layer of Marine Velour Carpet. The carpet will be dosed with WD40 to assist in the use and maintenance of the Bunks.

    The centerline Hard Concave Keel Rollers (blue) are being replaced by Soft Cotton Reel Rollers (red) in consideration of it being a timber boat and not aluminium or fibreglass. Unfortunately, I am awaiting the delivery of these before I can continue.

    P1010626-1.JPG P1010627-1.JPG P1010630-1.jpg P1010634-1.JPG

    In the mean time I have fabricated the framework, with wheels, that is necessary to lift the boat from its building cradle for transfer to the trailer. A block and tackle and lifting straps have been fitted and the lift was tested today and am happy to report that I’m all good to go in that department.

    P1010647-1.jpg P1010652-1.JPG P1010650-1.JPG
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    Laurie - away from the sea

  9. #398
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    Jan 2013
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    Pennsylvania, US
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    Default

    Yeeee Haaaaawwww!

  10. #399
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    What can I say? A whole month has gone by with nothing of any consequence to relay - one of the vagaries of being a parent with a son moving into his first house! and not over yet! Oh well that's life I guess. I ask for your patience, ‘cause I’ll be back soon!!!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  11. #400
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    Default 180 Trailer Cont…

    OK…finally found time to relocate from the building frame to the trailer. I agree with Greg albeit in an Aussie language – YOU BLOODY BEAUTY!!!

    I had to complete a total re-organization of my shed to boot. Unfortunately, the trailer length has necessitated the loss of some floor space but, oh well, the vagaries of advancement.

    P1010659-1.JPG P1010657-1.JPG

    The building frame has been disassembled and stacked outside out of the way.

    P1010660-1.JPG P1010663-1.JPG

    Some pics of how I've made the trailer sideways movable in the shed. Purchased these from Aldi (cheap and great!) and reinforced with a bit of ply on top.

    P1010664-1.JPG P1010665-1.JPG

    Still work to do on the son’s move but will be back to it soon!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  12. #401
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    Default 181 Trailer Cont 1...

    Just thought I would provide more pics of the trailer setup for those who might find it useful. Note that the beam distance from the CL of the boat stands at 945mm. The standards I looked at on-line concerning the placement of the Bunks was 1/3rd this distance, therefore 315mm. After much consideration regarding the Lines Plan drawing at Station 2 in plan and elevation views I was happy to take the decision to place the Bunks 400mm from the fore and aft CL. Hopefully this was a good decision and only time will tell if this will work OK.

    The front of the stick indicates Station 2 which is the centre of the flattest area of the bottom that I can ascertain from the drawings. I used the reflection of the Bunk on the Hull to assist with this. She's only sitting 150mm off the mudguards!

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    P1010671-1.jpg P1010674-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  13. #402
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    Default

    Bunks ideally should be located directly below any internal longitudinal stringer. This is particularly true on powerboats, but just as important on sail. On powerboats that run the usual suspects for engines, this often places the bunks much closer to the centerline than would seem desirable. In these cases an outboard "teeter totter" type stand is used, typically just inboard of the turn of the bilge, to keep the boat from flopping over in hard over the road turns. Yours look outboard enough to prevent flopping around on the road, assuming there's an inboard stringer on the other side.

    Unlike powerboats, sailboat weight is generally carried on the centerline rollers, with the bunks simply acting as flop over supports. Many powerboats carry much of the boat's weight on the bunks, which isn't ideal, especially if poorly fitted.

    Nothing appears poorly fitted on this boat and I can't wait, to see her out of the shed, in the sunlight.

  14. #403
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    Default 182 Gaff Jaws Cont 1…

    So…it’s Anzac Day. A day that I would normally hit the deck early and attend the dawn service as I am an ex Fleet Air Arm Navy man - an aircraft Armourer at that with nine years service reaching Petty Officer rank. Unfortunately, the deck went missing so I slept in and subsequently hit the shed in recompense. Apologies to those no longer with us, those in past wars and those still serving but please know I was and am thinking of you today.

    Today was about the Spars – the Boom and Gaff have been cut to size, planed to the square dimensions and I have spent most of the day on the Gaff bringing it to the recommended profile and then mucked around with the fitting of the Jaws. My few pics brings me up to date with where I’m at with these Gaff Jaws.

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    A bit of a rearrangement to put the Jaws at the correct angle in relation to the how the Gaff will sit with the sail attached.

    P1010678-1.JPG P1010680-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  15. #404
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    Default 183 Gaff Jaws Cont 2…

    After much deliberation and mucking around I found that I had incorrectly marked and cut the outline to the Jaws. In an effort to remedy the situation I have taken a path that may bring ridicule and heat to what I decided to finally do. It appeared that I had misinterpreted the diagram I used leaving me with the option to add more wood and inset into the Spar itself rather than the traditional bolt on scenario.

    The other decision involved was the width of the Jaws on the 90mm dia Mast. This has led me to an internal Jaw dimension of 105mm which should give me 7.5mm either side of the Jaws for 3mm of leather and some play. Fingers crossed this will do the trick.

    Additionally, in lieu of bolting the Jaws to the Gaff I have epoxied and screwed the Jaws into a 12mm recess in the Gaff and hope this will do the trick going forward.

    P1010682-1.jpg P1010683-1.jpg P1010684-1.jpg
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    Laurie - away from the sea

  16. #405
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    Jan 2013
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    Pennsylvania, US
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    Default

    Looks VERY nice that way Laurie! I think no issues with strength or function. Great documentation as usual! I chickened out and went with store bought which by chance arrived yesterday from Classic Marine in UK. Spar ends need to be set into the wood for them also about 6mm each side, gaff and boom. will work on them before long I hope, pics of hardware soon.

    Meantime i'm coating the floorboards and seats, maybe mast too, with new water based treatment like varnish in a satin finish. A bit risky to try a new product on a labor of love... So far it is good for cost, 25% less than varnish, clean up and brush re-use with soap and water, almost no odor and 3 coats a day. name = Sea Gold. After that I get to re-paint the interior...

    Best to you and onwards,

    Greg

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