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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default General Update on CB Case and Rudder

    As promised, although late…. some pics of the slow progress.
    1. Gluing one Case side to the Logs
    DSC01201 (Medium).JPG DSC01200 (Medium).JPG
    2. Top Coating the interior prior to gluing the other side Log and Side. I’ve applied 3 coats of International Prekote and I’m now using up some International Brightside Cream I had left over from my previous build. The boat will live on a trailer so there should be no worries using it inside the Case. I have applied a single coat and will now assemble it all together prior to applying another 2-3 coats inside.
    DSC01204 (Medium).JPG DSC01203 (Medium).JPG
    3. Top Coating the other side plus epoxy coating the inner face of the Rudder Cheeks and the Mast Step. Note the recesses in the Cheeks required for the top Pintle straps.
    DSC01205 (Medium).JPG
    4. The Case Cap and Supports. The Supports will be epoxied to the Case Sides to provide support for them. They also provide support for the Case Cap which will be removable to allow access to the interior of the Case if required.
    DSC01202 (Medium).JPG
    5. The Rudder beginning to take shape with the hardware in place (for show). Here I am concentrating on getting the end grain of the ply saturated with epoxy. My usual modus operandi is to apply one coat to one side of a full sheet of ply before any cutting taking place to reduce the splintering that takes place during the process. Then at this stage concentrate initially on the end grain until finished. Sand smooth all over and apply 2-3 coats wet on wet on the ply surface, one side at a time until satisfied I have the coverage I’m looking for in the area being worked. In this case 3 as the Rudder will take some knocks being in the position it is and the constant removal and replacement for trailering.
    DSC01208 (Medium).JPG
    6. A close up of the Cheek area. I still need to cut out a section of the main Rudder area for the Tiller to slot in. The Cheeks hold it all in place. The Tiller will protrude above the top Pintle.
    DSC01209 (Medium).JPG
    7.
    Another close up of how the Rudder goes together. The Cheeks will be fixed using Bedding Compound and bronze machine screws (need to be able to get at the top Pintle if required). I am thinking of using the epoxy fixing method for them straight out the Gougeon Brothers book on bonding fasteners. I’m temporarily using SS self tappers.
    DSC01210 (Medium).JPG

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Maryborough
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I was just looking around for info on the Tom Cat (I'm thinking about building 1 myself) and came across the following http://www.dc004.com/oct.html
    Have a look, it's quite interesting.
    Cheers
    Geoff

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GeoffN View Post
    I was just looking around for info on the Tom Cat (I'm thinking about building 1 myself) and came across the following http://www.dc004.com/oct.html
    Have a look, it's quite interesting.
    Cheers
    Geoff
    An excellent journey , thanks for the post ,inspiring stuff.
    Sucess is a journey , not a destination.

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 19 Work Continues on All the Bits….August 08

    Thanks for the tip but I found this early in my search for Tom Cat info.

    Although I haven’t been submitting to the Forum I have been attempting to push on during my work commitments away and the very cold weather making it almost impossible to work at night in the shed.

    However, I have progressed the CB Case ready for the last top coats inside. She’s all glued up now, CB Pivot Pin hole is complete and everything inside sanded. She’s been put aside for the time being and wait for some more things ready for paint before going further. There is a shot of the other side being glued on and a pic of a mock up of the Cap and Supports on the bench. Feels good to see the progress.

    I have moved on to all the items requiring laminating directly from the lofting. The Tiller, Fwd and Aft Deck Beams and the Trunk Beam. The Tiller required steaming as I am using NG. Rosewood for it and was concerned about breakage. My intention was to use 4 laminations of T. Oak capped top and bottom with Rosewood with one additional Rosewood lamination in the middle. See the pic. This scenario has been given the thumbs down by my better half and in the end I am grateful for her input as it would have looked tacky I reckon. However, this meant sourcing more timber and this set me back some time as my source in Toowoomba suddenly deceased. Awful shock, he was a great guy. Anyway, the guys at Watt’s Wood in Brissy were more than helpful so I made trip down there with my total trim requirements and am now in a position to continue the Tiller.

    While all this has been happening I have laminated up the Deck Beams using clear plantation Hoop Pine from the local h’ware house just to keep things moving. You may notice that the cambers are all different in the pics so some explanation my help as to my methodology.

    The Trunk camber is a given on the plans and is quite different to the deck camber, also on the plans, so I went with that. However, when it came to the Deck Beams I used an article in Wooden Boat that recommended not using a single camber board but rather use a method that utilises the drawing of the cambers at specific stations or positions as a separate exercise. Difficult to explain here as I don’t have the article but the end result is a different camber depending on the beam of the boat. At the end of the day it is not a 50 footer but the exercise was useful in showing just how much the camber can change depending on the beam. I will get the WB mag number and put it in next time.

    I have also done a bit more work on the Rudder. I have bitten the bullet on the placement of the Tiller cut out and completed that. Also made a decision to taper the cut out by 5mm. My thinking is that this will assist in the prevention of the Tiller jamming in the slot. The Base Plate has been permanently attached so it’s a matter of 2 coats epoxy all over, assemble the Pintles, attach the Cheeks and we’re ready for finishing.

    Once I have laminated up the Tiller the lofting can come up. That will be some day!!

    The pics...
    1. Gluing up the Case Side. All done now!
    DSC01211 (Medium).JPG

    2. Mock up of the finished product
    DSC01215 (Large) (Medium).JPG

    3. Steam bent mix of Oak and Rosewood for the Tiller. Do this again but with all Rosewood laminates. Lucky they weren't glued before bringing in the better half!
    DSC01214 (Large) (Medium).JPG

    4. All Deck Beams complete
    DSC01221 (Medium).JPG DSC01219 (Medium).JPG

    5. Some detail of the laminates
    DSC01220 (Medium).JPG

    6. Rudder with base plate glued on and Tiller cutout complete
    DSC01222 (Medium).JPG DSC01223 (Medium).JPG

    Cheers to all

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hi,

    I'm also building a Tom Cat....Maybe i can help?

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Lofting Up

    Time for another update. I’ve been busy with the gluing up the new Rosewood Tiller and messing about with ensuring I have everything I needed before pulling up the lofting. I have taken any number of templates and measurements but I just know that at some point I’m going to need something. Anyway, it’s up and I have room in my shed again! Temporarily that is. I have some work to do before I begin the Strongback.

    One of my jobs is to take my stack of Paulownia and plane it to size and then rout the tongue and groove edges. So far I’ve planed the sides ( a full afternoon to get through 400+ lineal metres) but I still need to get the edges done before I hit everything with the router. The Paulownia planes up OK depending upon the density of the boards. Some came up really good and some, as ever, not so good but with the methodology being used it should be just fine. I’ve planed the boards to 13mm to give some room for fairing etc so should end up somewhere in the ballpark of 12.7mm (1/2”) after glassing inside and out. The Paulownia is fairly soft so should lose a bit attempting to make it look good! My boards are 38mm wide undressed so am thinking I’ll need at least 3mm from each edge which will bring me down to 32mm prior to routing where I’ll lose another 4-5mm for the bead so should end up with a cover measurement of around 27-28mm wide. What I’m surprised about is the marking left by the planer if you don’t take a hefty slice with each pass. You can forget a 1 or 2mm adjustment because the timber is so soft the feeder leaves about 2-3mm indentations in it. I had thought about adjusting it out but I figure I have enough wood. Just don’t make any mistakes! I’d be interested in ideas from you guys out there about this but will start a separate thread so this one doesn’t get caught up in technicalities.

    The other thing I’ve done is hand planed a camber into the top of the Centreboard Cap so that little exercise is also drawing to a close.

    It’s all moving along – not too fast, not to slow but making progress. Sorry no pics this post. Nobody wants to see a stack of planed boards!

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    373

    Default Making the Paulownia Strips

    I made some comments last post about the Paulownia planking strips so considering I have just finished them I thought a recap on what I learnt might be useful.

    First off I purchased my Paulownia timber from Whitewood. (see elsewhere in this forum) He hails from Murwillumbah, has his own plantation and has access to another plantation for sizes unavailable from his own stock. I was lucky enough that I was able to get the strips in a RS state about 38x16, some nice long lengths from 3.0m to 3.9m. These were sawn from offcuts so were cheaper than you would normally pay. I approximated my requirement to be around 400LM of 29x12 actual size after dressing and routing. As it turned out they ended up 30x13 ie. covering dimension. They’re actually 35x13 overall so pretty good.

    I have chosen to use tongue and groove for a couple of reasons:
    1. I would learn something in the process (always a good thing)
    2. I’ve been told this profile makes the planking go quickly and smoothly
    3. A number of comments in different threads say “don’t do it!”. We’ll see.
    So where did I start….
    Last post I talked about the thicknessing so will not go over that. Suffice to say I got the 13mm as mentioned and I also only planed one edge thinking that the Tongue routing would clean up the other.

    Onto the tongue and groove edges. I purchased a Carbitool 13.5mm bull nose bit together with Canoe Slat bit for the princely sum of $130 so I figure the edges cost me 32.5c/LM if I now throw them in the bin and that certainly isn’t going to happen! I own a Triton Router Table and stand plus a Triton Router (love that machine!) so once set up with Groove bit away I went. I figured it was better to complete two passes each side to give me that room for error and to lighten the load on the machinery.
    I commenced with the Groove bit on the planed edge. This provided a decent edge to pass thru the kickbacks when completing the Tongue on the other side. Some diehards out there will undoubtedly say that it was waste of time doing two passes with such soft wood and they may be right but as it turned out I was glad I did because I had specifically chosen the inside of the bowed strips to be the Groove and forcing them thru the set up to get the depth was job in itself. I’m sure I’ve got muscles I never knew I had from that exercise! The Tongue edge was a breeze in comparison.
    A couple of little tips….with the Paulownia it pays to get the grain running in the right direction on the Router. If not, you’re left with bits of stringy wood hangin’ off everywhere when cutting the groove. The other point is to concentrate on what your doing or you end up Tonguin’ the Groove!! (Crikey, that sounds fun even!!) I wasted a few metres on different boards because of that.
    All in all it has taken most of last week to get it all done. 1600LM of routing!

    I have attached a couple of pics of the setup. I only needed one mod to the standard Triton deal. You’ll notice I screwed a piece of offcut the thickness of the strips (plus two paper thicknesses) to the fence. Oh, and nearly forgot. I used Silverglide on the table and fence and applied it about every 100LM or so. Great stuff. Also I can’t believe the door is actually up! (its only a 6x6m shed).

    P9150112 (Medium).JPG P9150111 (Medium).JPG P9150113 (Medium).JPG P9150114 (Medium).JPG

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default On To the Strongback

    Things have been a bit hectic of late with nothing substantial to show for the effort going in. I’m getting some carving work done to embellish some parts so have been organising that with a local guy. Nothing major, I just thought some small bits here and there would put some finishing touches to the end product and make the boat a bit unique. More on this as it becomes available.
    I have also strengthened the tiller at the fulcrum with some glass tape. It is quite long with a small area taking a lot of pressure. Gardner did the same thing when building the original but used carbon instead so I figured I need to do something. When looking at pics of the Gardner tiller it appears to be from a solid bit of wood so maybe that was the reason for the extra strength. However, by laminating the tiller horizontally I believe I have created inherent strength anyway. Currently I’m shaping it overall and attempting to get a good fit to the rudder. I have unfinished work there but provides something on the bench when I’m in the mood (see a couple of pics below). The white area is sanding epoxy for filling the weave of the glass.

    DSC01231 (Medium).JPG DSC01232 (Medium).JPG

    I have organised my timber for the Strongback and have commenced construction. The main beams are 38x150 spotted gum. Heavy as lead but will provide a good solid base. The rest is either 38x90 or 45x90 structural grade pine. The I’m using the John Brooks method straight out of his book “How to Build Glued Lapstrake Boats”. It struck my fancy as a good system so thought I’d give it a go. The level of the floor in my shed has come as a bit of a surprise. It’s like a hump back whale! High in the middle and low at the ends. Need to shore both ends up with some wedges etc. At least it’s turning out OK. You will note in the pics that I have narrowed the fwd end. Space is at premium and even this small amount will provide me an extra square metre or so. Its been worth it.
    I have also clamped blocks to the Station marks to ensure I don't get the Centre Beam supports in the road of the Moulds when they go on. Next step is to attach the Centre Beam and then the Moulds so it’s going to get a lot more exciting really quick in the next couple of weeks.

    DSC01227 (Medium).JPG DSC01226 (Medium).JPG DSC01230 (Medium).JPG

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Ah...it's nice to see a few scraps on the floor. My workshop floor is always groaning under the off-cut load from several projects that are happening at any one time. Sometimes wonder whether tidy floor photos are inserted to make lesser creatures like me feel guilty.
    Your project looks really terrific and thanks for sharing your progress.

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Strongback Complete

    I’m back….a week away means no work on the project but lots of thinking! Anyway, the Strongback’s done albeit with some minor errors in the Support Posts for the Centre Beam. Dunno what it is but every time I go near a saw cut that even looks like a hybrid mitre I run into trouble with measurements. You can clearly see the error in the pics and if you’re a good carpenter you will pick what actually caused the error. Over to the forum for a challenge. Not to worry, made some repairs without hurting the hip pocket and moved on.

    This Strongback methodology worked really well and I am happy with the result. Solid as a rock. Squaring everything up was simple after I had levelled out the floor with some heavy posts and packing under legs etc. Laying out the mould positions also went well…so well in fact that I had to keep checking everything to ensure myself that what I was seeing was real! I expected all sorts of issues but happily enough none so far. Maybe the truth will be in the bevelling and fairing. Did I say that I was going to bevel the moulds? No worries, my reasoning is that the Paulownia is not as dense as some other timbers and having the planks lying on the mould edges will leave an indentation that will require a lot of sanding later on so for the sake of some bevelling now should preclude some sanding later.

    So… the moulds have gone on in the reverse of normal ie. forward stations go forward of the station line and the aft stations go on aft of the station line. Fairing will be completed using a batten across a minimum of three moulds at a time and sawing the bevel next to the batten using it as a guide. Spacing for this about 300mm apart along the mould edge. The Gougeon boys recommend painting the edges black so you don’t go too far. Great idea so will give it a go. Somewhere I’ve got some Black or Dk Blue paint for the job.

    I haven’t done anything about the transom yet. I want to get the bevelling done on the rear stations first to check the run of the planking to the, as yet, uncut transom to check my lofting line on the in board face. It’s such a mother in size, reverse angled and curved. I don’t want to make another! Ahhh! The love of the challenge!

    My pics this week show the finished Strongback, how to check the Station spacing on top of the Centre Beam and the preliminary setting of the Station Moulds. They always say that this part of the process finally gives a bit of a look at the final shape. She’s a beamy little guy but that’s what catboats are all about I s’pose.

    Until next post………

    DSC01233 (Medium).JPG DSC01234 (Medium).JPG DSC01237 (Medium).JPG

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Bevelling the Moulds


    Things are moving very slowly as I bevel the moulds and prepare to fasten down the Backbone.

    I have trouble with one mould at Station 1A…one of my ring ins. Something wrong there, it is undersize by about 10mm in the middle of the curve for some reason. The other one I included at Station 2A is just fine. Perplexing and frustrating at the same time. However, at the moment and considering it was a ring in I’m yet to decide to pack it out or not. Near the Keel and Sheer is fine.

    So….I’m on to the Transom. It is also causing some grief as it is a bit of a pig to set up. I didn’t have it in me to go with the lofted profile and cut first. If I was wrong it meant a new one and I wasn’t prepared to do that. I ended up about 25mm too large so it was a great decision. It appears I didn’t allow for the planking thickness otherwise the shape was good. No harm done thank heavens. Subsequently, the shaping and bevelling of the Transom is being done in situ…I just want to get it right so don’t care how long it takes.

    I’m attaching a couple of pics of the set-up and you will see that I have painted the mould edges black. This was a really neat idea from a book somewhere. It really assisted in ensuring you don’t bevel past the Station Face thereby keeping the shape true. The little marks on the mould faces show the midpoint plus two others show the quarters of the mould edge. I did this to assist in how I lay the batten on to create the first bevels. In the last pic you can see where I’ve put a bevel near WLC on Station 1. Once these were all done it was a simple matter (although time consuming) to join the bevels up and voila! all done.

    DSC01240 (Medium).JPG DSC01238 (Medium).JPG DSC01239 (Medium).JPG DSC01241 (Medium).JPG

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    373

    Default Bevelling, Bevelling and More Bevelling!

    My last post put me at the beginning of the bevelling and fairing process in preparation for the planking. I have come far but am not finished. The journey has been slow and filled with, at times, frustration but….I have finally committed to putting the backbone together for the last time. All fastened and glued up. No going back, what is wrong will have to stay that way. I have taken many pics but have chosen a select few to enable you see to see the progress.

    My biggest decision was…should I epoxy the Backbone together or use mechanical fastenings with bedding compound? Final answer…glue it all up because the inside and outside will be completely covered with Fibreglass and epoxy. My one saving grace will be that the Keel and Outer Stem will be bedded in the time honoured fashion for ease of replacement at some time in the future should the need arise.

    Just an aside on the gluing decision……the keel will be attached with bronze threaded rod, nuts and washers thru the Keelson, Transom and Transom Knee in two places so I’m confident it will all stay together. Also the Upper Gudgeon will eventually be attached thru the Transom and Knee with bronze fastenings as well. I am leaving the rope attached and the two clamps whilst I enjoy the holiday break. This should allow the epoxy to set really well before removing them. I didn’t steam the Keelson bend so I hope it stays put.

    DSC01246 (Medium).JPG DSC01243 (Medium).JPG DSC01252 (Medium).JPG DSC01245 (Medium).JPG

    I have attached the Keelson from underneath (ie. inside the boat) with a single screw into a block at each Station to hold it down after covering the slots with packaging tape (so I don’t glue the thing to the moulds). After completing the fairing process I will continue with tape down the mould edges. You can see these blocks in pics in my previous post.

    When epoxying (Bote-Cote, did I mention that?) the Transom Knee I have used tape alongside the join and all around to stop getting the stuff everywhere. This has worked really well with hardly any cleanup. However, it pays to get it off after the epoxy has kicked a bit whilst still in a plasticine state. It is my intention to run a fillet around the join after I turn the boat over. I have included a pic of the setup to glue the Knee.

    You can see in the pic the commencement of the bevelling on the Keelson. At each Station I have bevelled using a jack plane and single saw cut as a guide plus a straight edge from the mould curve to get a lovely smooth transition for the planking. When I have completed this first part I will join these together between the Stations and should end up with everything ready for the planking.

    DSC01253 (Medium).JPG

    I have also included a pic of my setup to get the Inner Stem perpendicular. You can see in this pic where the plans have specified a filler piece in the area just aft of the stem join. I didn’t know how far to take it back so it was done with guesswork. We’ll see how it goes when I get to fair off this area. To be done last.

    DSC01255 (Medium).JPG DSC01256 (Medium).JPG


    Xmas is here…travel is in the air so I will leave it here. Have a good one!!
    Cheers Laurie

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Water View Post
    Dunno what it is but every time I go near a saw cut that even looks like a hybrid mitre I run into trouble with measurements. You can clearly see the error in the pics and if you’re a good carpenter you will pick what actually caused the error. Over to the forum for a challenge. ………
    Hi Laurie,
    I have been rereading this thread and noticed you have not received many responses to your queries. I think it is because we are so impressed with what you are doing we don't want to break the flow of your terrific posts.

    I'm not sure what you measured incorrectly for the centre beam supports just know I do it too when cutting mitres at least I think thats what the problem was

    Anyway keep up the good work I'm learning lots for my up coming project and forgive the interuption.

    Cheers
    Mike

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default Planking Commences

    Now that my break over Xmas has come to an end I have finally finished the fairing of the moulds and backbone. I have added some pics showing the finished backbone and the infill piece in the forefoot area mentioned previously.

    I added a longitudinal to the moulds just below the sheerline as my intention was to use a Master Plank around the bilge area and measure down “x” amount of plank widths and then from there begin planking back up towards the Master Plank. The planks would run off all along the sheer using this method and needed something to bear against. I went ahead and installed it, then masked off all the moulds and this longitudinal so the boat wouldn’t get stuck to the Strongback. I just used ordinary, cheap 50mm packaging tape.

    Ultimately after much procrastination, whirring of worry beads etc the anticipated compound curve got the better of me and so, after more research, decided to commence planking from the sheer towards a Master Plank and install “cheater” planks along this Master Plank at the bilge. (To mark my Master Plank position I took the midpoint at each mould and commenced to lay out a plank along this line from the centre mould and allowed it to lay as close to these marks as possible without incurring drastic edge set in the plank). I think I will just continue planking and see where we end up before it becomes absolutely necessary to install the Master Plank. The Cat boat is short and fat exacerbating the compound bends and with no experience I will take it as it comes.

    With that decision made I will review the methodology to fill in between the Master Plank and the Keel. It is either start at the Keel and work towards the Master Plank or continue towards the Keel from the Master Plank and let the planks runout over the Keel. At the moment I like this last idea. We’ll see.
    Anyway, there is a plank on the boat! Celebrations all round…double Scotch and some red. Lovely!!

    PS: Thanks for the note Mike. I appreciate the feedback.


    DSC01260 (Medium).JPG DSC01261 (Medium).JPG DSC01263 (Medium).JPG DSC01262 (Medium).JPG

    DSC01265 (Medium).JPG DSC01266 (Medium).JPG

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default Planking Continues

    Some planking pics. I’m using mudguard washers and chipboard screws at each frame and silicone bronze screws at the stem and transom. I am epoxying the planks at the stem and transom and using polyurethane glue (Purbond) everywhere else. The great thing is the squeeze out of the Purbond is very easy to remove as it is akin to hardened foam.

    The pics show my clamping procedure. I have screwed a taped plank to the hull skin thru the existing screw holes. This provides clamping pressure in the correct direction. I will move this up as required.

    You may not be able to tell from the pics but the edge set is just beginning to be a problem and to assist with the correct lay of the plank I am using a clamp between frames tied off to the strongback. See Pic 2 So far I have been able to reduce the flat spots at the frames using this method but it is becoming harder. Time for the Master Plank to go in I think and begin the process of tapering the planks up to it. I am still fiddling with the best spot for it. See last pic.

    I have a plank in a bath of water at the moment and will clamp this on and let it dry to see if this helps with reducing the edge set. The heat in the shed should be assist in fixing the bend as it drys. It’s bloody hot in there!

    Still can’t make up my mind if I should start at the keel and plank towards the Master Plank or continue on from it and let the planks run out over the keel. Dunno….still need to fiddle with measures etc.

    DSC01267 (Medium).JPG DSC01268 (Medium).JPG DSC01274 (Medium).JPG DSC01271 (Medium).JPG DSC01272 (Medium).JPG

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