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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default More Planking

    The Master Plank has gone in and I have filled in the gap. There are a couple of hard spots at each end where the planks taper off and a low spot toward the middle but nothing to be all that concerned about. It was expected from the research I did. I will plane the high spots and fill the lows as a part of the fairing process. Shouldn’t be that hard. Thankfully my time is free.

    DSC01277 (Medium).JPG DSC01278 (Medium).JPG

    Considering I couldn’t use clamps as I had been doing up to this point I cut some 5 ply, covered the exposed bit with packaging tape and screwed thru these into the underlying plank to draw it up as best I could. I was happy with the result. See pics.

    DSC01279 (Medium).JPG DSC01280 (Medium).JPG DSC01281 (Medium).JPG

    I ultimately decided to continue from the Master Plank towards the Sheer. My thinking was that this would eliminate any further problems with hard spots. The going has been slow but is going! The paulownia is very good for this type of work as it bends very easily and I have been soaking in water each plank end for 24hrs prior to offering it up to the moulds. I have actually reached the forefoot and it is only here where the combination of the edge set and the twist has become difficult.

    At the Master Plank I reversed the T&G after planing off the groove so that now the Tongue is facing up. This facilitates the loading of the glue in the tongue off the boat. To spread the glue I used a couple of methods until finally settling on what I believe to be the most efficient. To start I was using a foam brush, then a shaped paddle pop stick but nothing beats the old glove encased finger! With a bit of dexterity you can get the glue in the groove to ride up onto the lands of the edge and then smooth it out. Wipe the glove off with paper towel and hey presto! Dunno why I dicked around with the other methods at all. You will note in the pics that I am not wasting as much glue as I originally was.

    I am further on than these pics show and have about 7-9 planks to go each side. I have a daily routine of glue a plank on one side, bend a plank on the other side in the morning and glue a plank, bend a plank, join two planks and put put two planks in water in the evening. That’s 32mm each side per day. Not efficient but with patience and doggedness the boat’s getting planked!

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    London, UK
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    15

    Default

    Looking beautiful, what a skill to have.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
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    373

    Default Even More Planking

    She’s slowly getting closed up. I have been steadily working away at two planks a day and am now into the last lot that don’t need any soaking to bend easily but there is a lot of fitting to do where the planks don’t run out any more.

    I have decided that the last pair of planks each side next to the Centreboard slot will be Hoop Pine for no other reason than to give me a comfy feeling about alleviating the crushing stresses associated with attaching the Centrboard Case. I figure a bit more density around the slot will be a good thing.

    I also decided to cut out the slot prior to planking over the area. Another one of those “I think it might be a good idea” jobs. I completed this with my small circular saw against a straight edge initially and followed it up with a router to widen the slot an extra couple of mm to allow for the glass to be turned down into the slot. Finished the ends off with the time honoured chisel and mallet routine. I'm happy.

    In between times I have flatted off the stem enough to make a template of the curve in readiness for the manufacture of the Outer Stem. I pulled out the drawing I had of the Stem detail and made a template in 3mm fibreboard then set about making a jig for the steam bending of the laminates and subsequent gluing. I have left some wriggle room as the hull still requires fairing, glassing and refairing before I can actually start the work.

    The pics show various stages of the planking, the Stem flatted off and the Centreboard slot cut out. Not far to go now before the torture board is taken up!

    DSC01290 (Medium).JPG DSC01294 (Medium) (2).JPG DSC01291 (Medium) (2).JPG DSC01293 (Medium) (2).JPG

    DSC01298 (Medium).JPG DSC01299 (Medium).JPG DSC01300 (Medium).JPG

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Planking Complete!!!

    Well it’s finished. 76 planks in place and ready for fairing, glassing and more fairing. It’s been a journey to say the least but after some work with the stealer planks with no tongue and groove and the last pair each side in a different density timber, hoop pine, all I can say is I’m glad I T&G’d and I’m glad I used paulownia.

    I have a little work to do around the front of the Centreboard slot as well as rout the slot itself. PAR made a comment that he plunge routs after it’s all planked up but I found the slot extremely useful for clamping up those last couple of planks. I’ll use a trimming bit now to finish it off nice and neat. I’m glad I did the Hoop pine thing with the last planks. You can see the difference between the two timbers in the pics.

    Doesn’t she have a nice shape, even if fat!

    On to sharpening up the plane and spokeshave blades and into the fairing process. When I’ve got it smoothed out a bit I’ll using some fairing filler to fill the screw holes and any gaps in the planks that may be there prior to giving it a final sand before glassing. More on that in my next post.

    YAAAYYY!!!

    DSC01302 (Medium).JPG DSC01304 (Medium).JPG DSC01305 (Medium).JPG DSC01301 (Medium).JPG DSC01303 (Medium).JPG

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    is that hoop also known as the whiskey plank.

    Hope you had everyone around to toast your work.

    Mike

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default Filling and Fairing

    Thanks Mike and yes I had the family over to raise a glass or two.

    I have completed the Centreboard slot by routing using a bottom pattern bit and am glad to say that it all went well and I am pleased with the result. I was a bit nervous as I had not done anything like this before but I set up some planks for the base of the router to keep the bit perpendicular and away I went. Happy man!

    Flatting off the backbone for the Keel is complete and I have laminated up the Deadwood and Keel pieces. The Deadwood is 38 wide laminated horizontally from 25 Hoop Pine to be covered with a 38 wide by 50 high vertically laminated 25 thick Tas. Oak. I figure the pieces would be more stable laminated from thinner pieces of timber. I will wait for the completion of glassing before I bring all the pieces down to width just in case the glass laminate and subsequent fairing grows the flat larger than I have anticipated. All these go on after the glassing is complete.

    I removed all the screws from the Transom/Planking join as they were too close to the edge and have filled the holes. Considering this I also removed all the screws from the Stem – didn’t need to but, what the heck, I can use the expensive little guys elsewhere I’m sure.

    Initial fairing is complete and have now filled all the screw holes with fairing filler and am in the process of filling any gaps in the planking. The screw holes filled well using a large syringe but I discovered after attempting to fill the plank gaps that the Paulownia was soaking up the stuff like mad so will need to go over it again. I’ve only done about 25% so before going any further I gave the hull a complete epoxy coat to stabilise the absorption characteristics of the wood before carrying on with the filling.

    The plan then is to fair again before commencing the glass lamination process.

    Here are some pics of where I was at prior to commencing the filling process.

    DSC01306 (Medium).JPG DSC01309 (Medium).JPG DSC01308 (Medium).JPG

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Arundel Qld 4214
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    86
    Posts
    701

    Default The Tom Cat

    Hi Dry Water

    I keep checking your progress to make sure your doing a good job with the Paulownia. You are. It looks really great. You must get a lot of satisfaction to see the craft come together so well. I too admire your skills.

    John

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default More Fairing and onto the Externals

    After giving the entire hull a complete coat of epoxy I gave her a sand and then filled and faired all the remaining gaps in the planking. I have also rounded off the Transom edge in anticipation of glassing.

    My next job was to identify all the low spots and fill with fairing filler. This is complete but is awaiting fairing. See pics. I believe the majority of these were created due to the stealers I put in during planking and some were for reasons I don’t know. There just there! Anyway I can feel them and that’s enough reason. They would be quite obvious once they got a coat of paint.

    DSC01311 (Medium).JPG DSC01312 (Medium).JPG

    Whilst I wait for the filler to really harden up I went to work with the steamer and readied the Outer Stem pieces. Considering the timber is KD Tas. Oak I had been soaking them in water for about 3 weeks. Suffice to say when I dragged them out of the steamer after 20 mins they bent easily around the jig. Most of the wider laminates are 7mm while the 3 in the middle are 6mm. There are two short ones on the outside, one to allow for a slightly deeper foot and one to help resist checking in the timber around the bend. I noted that this particular plank did check quite significantly and the one behind it has not (so far!). Anyway, I’ll leave it stand to dry out for a couple weeks before gluing up while I endeavour to get the fairing completed. See pic.

    DSC01310 (Medium).JPG

    I changed my mind about waiting for the glassing to be completed before bringing the Deadwood and Keel pieces down to size. I had the Planer out so took the opportunity to get the job done. It will be easier to dry fit everything when they are the correct dimensions. The Keel is actually made up of 4 pieces, one forward, one aft and one either side of the Centreboard slot. It will be a considerable challenge to fit the whole together to be as one. I’m still in two minds as to the way forward with the ones either side of the slot subsequently I have left them oversize in the depth dimension.

    That’s all for now.

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default The Externals

    The fitting of the Keel pieces and the Outer Stem to the boat are now complete. It was as I thought it would be, a lot of fitting that has taken a fair amount of time. The Centreboard keel pieces were the most difficult. At the forward end the timber was let into the planking about 4mm and the aft end required the addition of a small laminate to fill the gap that was present due to the aft end being bent away towards the Transom. The fitting of these pieces took a couple of nights.

    The first pic shows a finished Keel piece for one side of the CB slot. You may be able to just see the where it inlays into the planking. These will be fitted after glassing the hull so the inlay will not end up as big as it looks.

    DSC01315 (Medium).JPG

    The next pic shows the piece of hoop pine I used for the infill piece at the aft end and the next shows after fitting. See the pics of the whole job sitting together.

    DSC01316 (Medium).JPG
    DSC01322 (Medium).JPG DSC01323 (Medium).JPG DSC01326 (Medium).JPG DSC01324 (Medium).JPG

    The Outer Stem is all glued up and has been fitted with the join roughed out to fit the Forward Keel piece that is just sitting in place to give an indication how it all fits together. The final fitting and joint making will be completed after glassing the hull. My intention is to use bedding compound and SB screws to bring it all together.

    DSC01318 (Medium).JPG

    My final pics shows how I kept the Outer Stem in place while the epoxy fully setup over a few days after I noticed it was beginning to spread apart in the cold weather. It was fine when itook it off the jig so I disassembled the jig and had no where to put it back! Anyway, you can see that is fine in one of the other pics.

    DSC01320 (Medium).JPG DSC01321 (Medium).JPG

    Now I have to go back to fairing. I need another hit of filler after the first pass and depending on how that goes I may even need another. Hope not...it’s as boring as hell doing this type of work but I want a good job so have to keep at it.

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
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    2,139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Water View Post
    Now I have to go back to fairing. I need another hit of filler after the first pass and depending on how that goes I may even need another. Hope not...it’s as boring as hell doing this type of work but I want a good job so have to keep at it.
    Keep at it certain to pay off later...............he says thinking gawd glad it's not me

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default More Externals

    Living on “the Range” has the drawback that winter is really cold. My shed is not heated and so I have difficulty with any epoxy work. My usual hours are 1700 (or thereabouts til 1900 with hardly any work on weekends due to other commitments so needless to say the temperature is about 12 degrees and dropping fast by the time I get there. I have a heat box setup for the resin but just can’t seem to get motivated in the cold.

    However, work continues with other jobs that don’t require the stuff. I have successfully cut the Outer Stem to profile on the bandsaw, and brought it down to the required curve with bench sander, plane and scraper. The centreline has been added together with the stem width marks ready for bevelling. However, I will leave this until the glassing is complete because the bevel terminates right on the hood ends of the planking. If I complete that now I may end up with insufficient width. I’ve got about 2mm to spare either side at the moment. I took some pics of this latest work but am having trouble tonight getting them in. Try again to morrow.

    The second lot of fairing and sanding is also complete but as mentioned previously there are a couple of spots that need a touch more, just waiting for the right temperature to do that work.

    Also went back to the Centreboard Case Cap and sanded that back ready for more coats of epoxy. I wasn’t happy with the way it was.

    So that’s it…not much happening in the shed. Nearly forgot, also lost a week with an injury…even missed a couple of Saturday’s of golf! Goddammit!

  13. #72
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    Dec 2007
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    Default More Externals 2

    Here are the pics. It always helps to reduce their size! Gulp!!
    Not much wastage there!

    Outer Stem 1 (Medium).JPG Outer Stem 2 (Medium).JPG
    DSC01330 (Medium).JPG DSC01332 (Medium).JPG DSC01331 (Medium).JPG DSC01334 (Medium).JPG

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    2,270

    Default

    Is that notched scarf (on the outer stem) facing that way in the plans?

  15. #74
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    Dec 2007
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    Guernsey Channel Islands UK
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    54
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    307

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    Quote Originally Posted by PAR View Post
    Is that notched scarf (on the outer stem) facing that way in the plans?
    PAR if you look closely on the first pic it looks like it's drawn the other way round.

    if it is the wrong way round does it really mater if i assume Dry Water is going to have a rubbing strip fitted over it ?

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    A good rule of thumb with joints is to always permit an natural way for water to escape a joint, if it gets in. With scarfs, they'll slope away from water flow, as to prevent water being forced up into them underway or because of natural water paths. In deadwood assemblies you'll see this a lot, having the scarfs face aft ( \ ). If you have no other choice but a forward facing scarf, then a "stopwater" is installed to tighten the joint, if water does manage to get up into it. Stopwaters are traditionally employed along the rabbit in keel and deadwood assemblies to prevent water from getting past the caulk line, but are also used to tighten joints when necessary.

    On a notched scarf like that one, I'd install the stopwater right at the point of the lower notch, which will also serve to relieve any stress risers at this location.

    Note how water can't "climb" up into the joint in this orientation, but it might if this was reversed to the water flow. The stopwater is located as suggested, at the lower notch point.

    The work thus far looks great . . .

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