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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    mount riverview nsw
    Age
    61
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Job well done, and a very good bit of rigging. I liked the reinforcing of the roof trusses. Looking forward to the fit out, as I am sure you are.
    Ian L

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default Hull Support

    Thanks to everyone for their comments. I relish the feedback – ‘specially when it’s good! Seriously, the comments are great…keep them coming…good, bad or indifferent.

    This note is about the old supports used from my previous creation. I noticed a slight flexing of the hull just out from the Keel when I lifted it to centre it on the Strongback. It transpires that this is not good considering I still need to glass the inside. I’d hate to build in a problem with fairness because of it.

    So…back the drawing board, a couple of new lengths of framing timber and Viola! New support structure. I’m happy now.

    Note that I have left enough distance between the two middle ones to allow room to work on the CB Slot and to attach the CB Case from outside.

    DSC01592 (Medium).JPG DSC01594 (Medium).JPG DSC01595 (Medium).JPG DSC01596 (Medium).JPG

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default Internal Sheathing

    You know, nothing erks me more than writing 1 ½ pages of good drivel for the Forum and then forget to save it! Oh well, I’ll have to start again (but it won’t be as good!)

    Things have very slow recently mainly because I’ve been working away during the week and on the weekends its been home projects. No need to say anything more there, I’m sure you all know what I’m talking about. To make matters worse I’ve taken a long term assignment in DE for 12 months commencing towards the end of this month. Subsequently the “home projects” have taken priority.

    However, in an effort to stabilise the boat, before I take off, the good news is that I have completed the sheathing of the interior. With that statement comes a load of telling the good and bad stories of such an endeavour so let’s look at what happened.

    First thing is I used the same size glass inside as did outside ie. 450gsm Biaxial. With that comes a load of resin to wet the stuff out and to speed up the process I weighed out 4 x 200gm of resin and lined them up prior to proceeding. When I added the hardener this would give me 300gm each time or 2/3 sqm each mix. I can get two mixes out of one container before the epoxy gets to a point where I can’t go further without cleaning. I learnt that preparation is the key with this type of job especially when working alone. Some detail on this…I had made a heat cabinet that uses a 40W globe early in the beginning of this project (the Bote-Cote Manual Appendix 4 has a terrific drawing of this) and I start the process a couple of days beforehand to bring the resin to a point of fairly high viscosity. This makes it much easier to mix and spread. I decided that I would do one side at a time to make the job a bit more manageable.

    Due to the inordinate amount of epoxy required to fill the weave I decided to use the Peel Ply I had originally bought to do the job. All articles read on the subject praised its use specifically for this. Now for some learnings…

    1. One of the downsides of this is that when working alone things become somewhat frantic even with all the prep. Subsequently I lost the opportunity to join the various pieces of glass as one would want ie. let it go off just a touch then slice down thru the joint and remove the excess either side before pushing the two sides together again. One has to lift the PP to complete this and from point of view it was too much of a hassle to cut, remove the excess, straighten the join, put on more resin put the PP back and put on more resin. I had better things to do further along in the sheathing process. What the hell, it’s only an inch or so, something that a quick sand will fix.
    2. Applying the PP is a job in itself for one person. If you can imagine some chick doing the dance of the seven veils with the veils flowing every where out of control that’s about what it’s like trying to apply PP on your own!
    3. My biggest error was not keeping an eye on the temperature in the shed. I started about 1100 in the morning knowing that it would take most of the afternoon to complete the Starboard side. Consequently the temp was still rising as I applied the PP. The result was outgassing of air in the timber with the unbelievable amount of small bubbles created under the PP. This had never really happened before and if it did I seem to remember just whipping around with a roller popping and flattening them as I went but with the PP this doesn’t work. To fix the problem I waited until the epoxy had gone off just enough to stabilise and then immediately pulled the PP to reveal a myriad of small craters all over the place. I mixed a batch of filler and went to work whilst everything was still green. The result is in the pics below.

    So…lesson learnt. On the Port side I monitored the Temp in the shed with my trusty thermometer and as soon as the temperature began to fall I went to work with fingers crossed. The result? Not a single bubble and a very happy chappie. So it works - the PP that is. I just need to scrape the Starboard side smooth, sand, apply one more coat of epoxy and we have a sheathed interior awaiting the interesting work of the fit-out. This I will do when I return from DE in 12 months time so my thread will stop for a time at this point.

    DSC01599 (Medium).JPG DSC01600 (Medium).JPG DSC01601 (Medium).JPG

    DSC01602 (Medium).JPG DSC01604 (Medium).JPG DSC01605 (Medium).JPG

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default Internal Sheathing Cont…

    Just some more pics. This time the end result after PP removal and prior to getting really stuck in to begin the smoothing process on the Starboard side. The amount of work to do on the Port side will be minimal before proceeding with fitout. There is a marked difference between the two sides so timing of sheathing is critical. I didn’t have this issue when doing the exterior of the hull but then again I must have done the work after I finished work so about a 1730 start time which means the temperature was falling.

    So I may get a bit more done before placing and clamping a couple of moulds inplace before taking off. I’ll cover with something to keep the nasties out and that’ll be it for awhile until I get back and can recommence. Sad, sad, sad.

    I have a question for the forum. Should I abandon this thread and start anew in the future or let this one sit and wait? What’s the best thing to do in these circumstances?

    DSC01606 (Medium).JPG DSC01607 (Medium).JPG DSC01609 (Medium).JPG DSC01610 (Medium).JPG DSC01611 (Medium).JPG

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    My 2cw is to keep this one going it will appear locked down the track because the forum will deem it inactive but when you come back and post a reply there will be a check box down lower on the page to reactivate the thread.

    Thanks for writing up your experiences I like the way you explain the problems you come up against and the solutions.

    Sorry, a dumb question what or where is DE?

    I for one will look forward to your return.

    Cheers
    Mike
    "Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    68
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    333

    Default

    DE is the ISO standard abbrevaition for Germany (Deutschland). My job is looking after master data for a software application and incorrectly assumed everyone would know this. Apologies to all.

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dry Water View Post
    DE is the ISO standard abbrevaition for Germany (Deutschland). My job is looking after master data for a software application and incorrectly assumed everyone would know this. Apologies to all.
    Oh that DE
    Mike
    "Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default 54 Fitting the Centreboard Case

    Well, I thought I was back for good when I returned to good ol’ Oz last November. After much work around the place (all the while hanging out to get back in the shed), Xmas and New Year arrived and went and finally was able to remove the protective covering on the boat and get stuck in. Did I say that? After 12 months away I had to sit and think how I was going to get back into the swing of things. Remember where all my tools were and secret hidey holes for my precious bits. Anyway it became obvious that I had a number of things to do and it was a matter of picking something fairly easy to begin with from that little lot. I could either clean up the glass where I had hastily cut it off along the Inner Keel, fix the CB slot where I has inadvertently taken off too much wood or fit the CB case.
    As ever I took the easy option and went for the last. It wasn’t big job as the design has a horizontal keel throughout the CB logs with the exception of the last few inches. It was a simple job to pack up the case then use a marker to trace the profile. A little bit of fitting work and we’re done. Then disaster! I had to go back to Germany for a month! Gott in Himmel! - is this project ever going to let me finish?
    Anyway, A couple of pics of the CB Case in the boat!!!

    DSC01614 (2).JPG DSC01612-1 (2).JPG DSC01615 (2).JPG 002.JPG

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Welcome back and looking forward to seeing the progress.
    Mike
    "Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Arundel Qld 4214
    Age
    82
    Posts
    695

    Default

    I second that motion!!! I was just talking to some one about your order and Paulownia the other day and was wondering how your project had turned out. Now I know.

  11. #131
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default 55 The Framing Question

    More water has flowed under the bridge and I can’t seem to keep the momentum going. Work consistently is dragging me away to other climes. This time to Canada for a couple of weeks and just got back. However, in between DE and CA I did get some stuff completed but never found the opportunity to share until now.

    Once the CB Case was fitted (fitted mind you, not installed!) I took some time to figure out the next couple of important jobs, the Floors and Frames. Because I have chosen the strip plank method for the hull the question of the Frame requirement still remains. Some advocate that it is not required, others say stick a few in while others advocate none at all. Being the kind of guy I am (quasi conservative) I have opted for the “stick a few in” scenario. My reasoning is backed by the designer and I quote from his book - “The strip planked, edge glued hull needs only about a half dozen more or less evenly spaced frames between the stem and the transom”. Even with that I note that Bill did not mention the application of sheathing inside of the hull and this may have been why he threw some in at all. In the end I looked at what it was I was building and with that wide hull and the mast being well forward I couldn’t bring myself to leave them out. Going forward it will provide peace of mind when she is the water with all those wracking stresses to contend with.

    So bottom line is I decided I would reduce the number of Floors and provide a Frame at every Floor plus one at the foot of the Transom Knee. This makes a total of 8 Floors with associated Frames which is about half of what the plans call for if you were building with the original carvel planking method. There the number was 15. All frames are perpendicular to the Centre Line with the exception of Frame 1 where I have allowed the Frame to make its own path from the Mast Step to the Sheer. This evens out the distance between the Stem and Frame 3 at the Sheer.

    With the decision made I went ahead and marked out the position of everything and proceeded to fabricate the Floors. I chose the Floors first as they will provide an athwartships reference for the Frames during installation. Considering my Lofting board was in vertical purgatory behind a load of wood I opted for the template method to fabricate the Floors.

    I took a piece of thin fibreboard and proceeded to fit this on the larger dimension of the Floor. Just a matter of trial and error, a pencil, my little trusty level and my sander. Yes, it was time consuming, dusty (even with a vacuum going) and may have gone a lot quicker had I pulled the lofting. However, the Floors were not marked during the original lofting of the boat so would have needed to start from scratch as none of the Floors fall on an existing Station line. A point to note for anyone contemplating the Lofting of a boat – I have found I am constantly referring back to it throughout the time so far and I am sure I will need to go back to it again. Don’t throw it out and keep it as handy as possible. Sometimes I think I should do another but half the size for ease of use!

    Anyway, to wrap up I have taken some pics below of where I’m at.

    DSC01616-1.jpg DSC01618-1.jpg DSC01620-1.jpg DSC01624-1.jpg

    DSC01630-1.JPG IMG_0055-1.jpg IMG_0057-1.jpg DSC01627-1.jpg

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default 56 Prep for Floor and Frame Install

    Work is continuing at what seems to be snail’s pace but I have completed a number of jobs to keep ahead of the upcoming requirements.
    The CB case has been epoxied in place and reinforced with a dozen 75mm SB Screws up thru the Keel into the fore and aft Logs. These will be plugged later and be in a position for finally finishing the Keel paint. This will be the last of the bottom paint requirement when completed. I have not provided an epoxy fillet to the Log/Inner Keel join at this point and will await the installation of the Floors and Frames before completing that task. The CB slot requires some final finishing now that this is complete so some more work there before we can say “Done!”
    I took a day to rip all the Frame veneers in anticipation of need after the installation of the Floors. These have been taken out of a Tas. Oak board 25mm thick and each veneer is approx 4mm in thickness. The intention is to follow the designer’s words and glue them up in situ. Plastic sheeting will protect the hull during this process with the aim of gluing them up then planing to width after the epoxy has gone off. Subsequent to that they will be permanently glued in place all the while using the installed Floors as both guide and final partner in the overall strengthening process as there is one Frame per Floor position.
    Whilst I had the saw out I took the opportunity to rip the Sheer Clamps from some Hoop Pine. The edge set on the 65x19 board will be fairly ornery on this so to alleviate some of the stresses I have ripped the board down the middle to give me two laminates approx 9mm thick. I’ve got my fingers crossed that steaming will not be required. We’ll see how we go when we get there.
    I have spent the last couple of days getting three coats of epoxy onto the Floors prior to install.

    DSC01633-1.jpg DSC01635-1.jpg

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
    Posts
    333

    Default 57 Floor Installation

    The Floors are going in well albeit ever so slowly. I can only work on the boat in the mornings before work as there is much to do around the house.

    As per my previous post to get a good bond I have given the Floors three coats of epoxy all over and sanded with 80 grit in the bonding areas including their position in the hull. At time of glue up straight epoxy goes down first in both areas then with the remainder I have beefed up the mix considerably at about 50:50 epoxy to Glue Filler. This provides a lovely thick mix that allows quite a large fillet without it slumping. Slumping has to be the biggest pain in anyone’s derriere where a lovely large fillet is required. Many is the time I’ve come back only find my beautifully, painstakingly applied fillet has slumped down to a pile of epoxy that looks like a two year old has had a go! One never seems to learn that it requires quite a stiff mix for this.

    Anyway I’ve only got two to go to complete this stage. I’ve been held up with the fabrication of the CB Knee and its infill piece at Flr 6 at the rear of the CB Case. Fabrication and installation is now complete and it’s just awaiting the Infill piece and the Floor to be epoxied in place.

    At the Flr 1 position I have some work to do around the Mast Step to take the inboard ends of Frame 1 in this region. I need to cut a notch in the side of the Mast Step that will securely hold the Frame in place. There is also a need to ponder on the possibility of filling the void between the Mast Step and the side of the Hull. It seems to me to be a bit of a water trap down there.

    The Frame veneers are now soaking in my old water bath. As mentioned they are ripped from kiln dried Tas Oak and am attempting to get some moisture into the surface before they go into the steamer for 10mins or so. Fingers crossed that this will work OK. Kiln dried wood is never much good for steaming BUT…that’s what I used for my Inner and Outer Stem and they have worked a treat (so far).

    Here are some more pics of the progress. Cheers.

    DSC01636-1.jpg DSC01640-1.jpg DSC01646-1.jpg DSC01647-1.jpg DSC01648-1.jpg

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Lovely, neat work. A pleasure watching you come along on this build. Keep up the good work . . .

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    68
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    333

    Default 58 Floor Install Complete

    All Floors are finally in. I ended up laminating three different bits of wood to get my CB Knee infill piece. A bit if T. Oak, Oregon and Hoop Pine. Anyway, it works if stabilised with 3 coats of epoxy!

    At the Floor 1 position I cut the notches in the side of the Mast Step so am just about ready for the framing but one last job to do before going forward.

    This entails bringing the Sheer Line down to the correct height to allow for the thickness of the deck. I had already marked the line from the Lines plan prior to taking out the Moulds so it was just a case of cutting below this line by the deck thickness. As can be seen from the attached pics I just clamped on a left over piece of hull material set at the correct height and went at it. I still need to gt out my deck camber boards and complete the bevelling. I am thinking of using a belt sander with fine grit for this as the core is Paulownia sheathed with epoxy/glass and I figure I will have more control doing it this way.

    Just some word here of my forward thinking. I have pondered long and hard as to the deck construction and finish before attacking the Sheer with the jigsaw. The plans are not all that clear when it comes to the thickness of the ply deck other than it calls for 3/16 (5mm) for the cabin top then covered in Dynel. As I look at the drawings in the book the Deck appears to be 3/8 (10mm) so I have gone with that. However, the catch is I wanted to have a traditional looking laid deck fwd and aft so I figure I’ll lay 4.5mm ply with a layer of 5mm decking, just to give the boat a bit of zing!

    The Frame veneers are still soaking!

    DSC01649-1.JPG DSC01650-1.JPG DSC01651-1.JPG DSC01654-1.JPG

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