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Thread: decking issues

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    11

    Default The deck saga continues

    Thanks for your reply, utemad. This deck has sent me around the bend. It's not like the area is perfect, level with no obtructions. There are heaps of remanents from previous work. Old stairs that have been removed, cracked bricks, uneven wall areas not true nor square, two decks built in the same place and a plethora of old stumps that I keep finding... exactly where I need to place a new foundations. Fortunately, they are only 300x300 and 300 deep!

    The pics really helped, that's what I thought under joist bracing was. You have just attached it with bolts on to some nogging in between the joists? I will use that as it is more attractive than post bracing. And yes, I will use joist over bearer method... Just because it is easier with less cuts! (and will take more weight so the mother in law can have big parties on it!!! Hah Hah.)


    As for the front wall, I only have a few spots that are secure enough to bolt to. Every brick were the ledger would run are far to corrupt to expect any type of structural bearing. How ever, there are three spots lower down that are integral... exactly where the posts are going to be! I have already decided that I was going to put in three support posts to take the weight of the bearer and then dynabolt the posts to the wall. The only problem is the placement of the stirrup against the wall (as the foudation edge is 150mm under the ground line). The only option seems to be as I laid out in the attached drawing. To build a concrete pier, 600mm down the side of the house foundation ledge and have it overlap the edge to a height of 300mm, thus giving me at least 200mm above the ground line. Then I can bolt a stirrup on top, placing the post along the wall so it can be dynabolted. Is this method reaoneable? Otherwise, the stirrup can only be placed 75mm away from wall. tricky, huh?

    cheers, grease monkey.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by grease monkey View Post
    I plan to use [...] with a Aus. mixed hardwood deck.
    Beware of "mixed" hardwood! It tends to mean a mix of
    class-2 and class-3 timbers (e.g: blackbutt and stringybark).
    Blackbutt is ok outside, but stringybark is not. Go for a
    specific timber species and research its properties carefully.
    E.g: tallowwood and ironbark are both class-1.

    2. The posts are to continue past the deck level to become the handrail supports. I plan to use s/s cabling under the handrail (@125mm or less spacing). Is my post size adequate for the force that these generate if I am using the 88 x 88?
    Beware again. The required tension on such s/s cabling is quite enormous,
    if you want to meet regulations. If I recall correctly, for a 1.5m post
    spacing, and 80mm cable spacing, 3mm (1x19) cable, you have to be able
    to hang a 2kg weight at the middle of a cable span, and it must not deflect by more than 5mm! Larger spacings require even higher tension.

    I haven't done the experiment with pine posts, but I can tell you 65x65
    blackbutt is not even close (and blackbutt is far more rigid than pine).
    Most people use 100x100 blackbutt (or other hardwood), but
    when I walk up and press my hand against a cable, I seriously doubt
    whether it's tight enough. There's a reason why people use 50mm diam
    stainless steel posts for this. And even those can bow inwards by 1-2mm
    at the centre if spaced too wide apart.

    Try doing an experiment: make up one section of the ballustrade as a
    stand-alone frame. Then put in your s/s cabling and tighten it up to
    spec (using something which is measured to weigh 2kg). How much
    does the wire deflect at the middle? Do the posts start to bow inwards
    under the tension.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    341

    Default

    To meet current standards the way i get it ...

    you can't use horizontal cable with floor heights greater than 4m
    for a 1500mm post spacing using 3mm 1 x 19 stainless cable you must be able to tension 1330 N with a 5mm allowable deflection.......
    There are ways of minimising the timber post flex that most guys get but thats a secret LOL if you want to put your posts wider or are unable to get the required tension you can buy 40mm x 6mm fat stainless bar with a bend at either end to attach the the floor and under side of top rail (they come predrilled)this will break the span without visually adding another post and cuts down the cable flex.....

    cheers Ute Mad

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