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  1. #16
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    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    74
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    Replace the posts with 100 x 100 x 6 SHS from footing to new roof pitching beam
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Bardon
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    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by 419 View Post
    That changes my attitude. I was concerned that you didn't have sufficient understanding of the task and were at risk of doing a bodgie job.

    I was thinking of a more primitive version of auscab's suggestion for a steel outer reinforcing box, but auscab's suggestion is much neater.

    Alternatively, depending upon cost, rather than thinning the posts where the reinforcing box goes you might be able to get steel boxes made to fit your current and scarfed post in their standard dimensions and fit them full length from the deck to the roof supports so that they become the outer faces of the posts without any visible joints. Use recessed bolts on the scarf joint to allow the box to slide over.
    Hi 419

    Having understanding still doesn't negate doing a bodgie job. I would be the first to put my hand up for doing bodgie jobs, however only in situations where it doesn't really matter. Thing is I want to put a roof over this part of the deck to avoid ongoing future maintenance or at least lessen it to a degree hence I would be looking to do a good job and probably have most of the required skills to do it well, the best thing is that I have plenty of time whilst I am still relatively young.

    I think I said before that I am reticent about the steel timber combination and once encasing a timber beam in what I think you are saying is essentially RHS then no I probably wouldn't go down this path. If I was going to do anything like you said I would just cut the post down to top of the bearer and have a mob like Brisbane posts and Beams fabricate me some still RHS posts with a bolt on section to fit over the top of the post and deck bearer and the same at the top, however I have one problem WIFE don't think she would like the steel post option i.e. would like to see it kept in character a bit.

    Thanks for the reply all food for thought.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Bardon
    Posts
    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    Replace the posts with 100 x 100 x 6 SHS from footing to new roof pitching beam
    Hi rwbuild

    Had thought of this as an option. 2 problems as I have already said WIFE relating to the aesthetics. Second problem is I would need to redo the footing as it is currently a Pryda high wind stirrup(Actually not Pryda can't remember the brand as I put stainless steel ones here as is is right next to a saltwater pool) 600x100 M12 in a very deep footing as recommended by the engineer for the pool can't remember this size/depth exactly. That's apart from all the extra work needed to replace it as mentioned. I know I can get lengths of 100x100 hardwood and replace the whole thing which is what I am leaning towards after everybody's help so far. Unless there is something else that people think the QBCC will find acceptable without replacing the whole post.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2023
    Location
    Nimmitabel, Canberra
    Age
    72
    Posts
    173

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    The current posts are probably notched in places. It might be difficult to accommodate that in a steel post.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    74
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    3,293

    Default

    Replace with full height Hwd
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Bardon
    Posts
    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    Replace with full height Hwd
    Yep think so. My poor back is aching at the thought.

    Cheers everyone.

    P.S. I was just looking at the QBCC site for Owner builders licence/permit and realised I need to also get a white card. Why did I let that lapse looks like another $40 for pointless crap. Note to everyone including myself keep you qualification up to date even if retired.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,394

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    ďThing is I want to put a roof over this part of the deck to avoid ongoing future maintenance..Ē

    I get it, I have to oil my exposed deck every 3-4 years. Itís a PITA. BUT thatís a lot less work than what you are proposing. If maintenance is the only reason, maybe just accept it?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Bardon
    Posts
    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    ďThing is I want to put a roof over this part of the deck to avoid ongoing future maintenance..Ē

    I get it, I have to oil my exposed deck every 3-4 years. Itís a PITA. BUT thatís a lot less work than what you are proposing. If maintenance is the only reason, maybe just accept it?
    Hey Jack

    Not sure where you live or what deck oil you use but my deck needs oiling at least every year. Thats not to mention painting all the other bits and some of the timber just simply falling apart due to dry rot, fungal attack etc. The weather in QLD can be brutal on timber work.

    I have lived in this house for about 12 years and already replaced all the decking on the exposed section as well as the joists at the same time and some of it is already looking again. Have also replaced most of the balustrading at various times. The covered part I have not done a single thing to except paint.

    Let's not even get into the joys of owning a Queenslander. I always say buying a Queenslander is like getting married you fall in love, have a honeymoon period, things start to go wrong, and then things start to cost lots of money, this is when you start looking at all those brand new young modern houses and start dreaming. Hmmm my mind seemed to wander off track for a minute there. But hey just like my beautiful wife she's an oldie but a goodie.

    Cheers thanks for the input much appreciated.

    Thanks interesting the forum bot edited out the word chite but with an s. Go figure????

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    127

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    As I said earlier, bracing is king. Thinking about the addition being described, it can be placed on top of the existing posts as long as there is adequate structural bracing and tie-down. Just like a structure placed directly onto a slab at ground level, the bracing and tie-down are the only things that keeps it upright. But if the posts are intended/required to form part of the overall bracing design, they will need to replaced from ground level through to the upper level roof

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