Thread: Sanding chamfered edge of decking boards?

Originally Posted by Nicola09

I can't find a good method of removing the old stain from the chamfered edge other than manual sanding using coarse sand paper but this is taking so long and I'm sanding my finger tips in the process.

I'd just wrap the paper around a short length of picket - maybe a foot long x 1' square. Longer, if you'd prefer to hold the ends of the picket rather than the paper to protect your hands. Drawing pins, tape or staples if you want to affix the paper to the block.

So long as the boards are level, you should be able to quickly bowl over the chamfers on both sides of the gap simultaneously.

It's still time consuming and hands'n'knees stuff, but depending on your grit choice (and depth of stain) should only take a few swipes before moving along.


Another option is to grind the end of a paint scraper to around an 80deg point and use it like a card scraper. This can be also be very quick, depending on the stain type and timber, but if you're not used to card scrapers will probably lead to aching wrists and fingers.

Use a scraper like this one:

1B304AE1-CA43-4082-B414-B2F68477F847.jpeg

Alternatively; I have a load of old TCT cutters from a helical headed thicknesser, one of those screwed onto the end of a block of wood would likely enable you to scrape two chamfered edges at the same time if they are indeed 45 degrees and not badly cupped.

219A1708-256F-4268-9FBD-DB63782E88F3.jpeg EFCE4493-8782-44E4-A949-903DCE584E12.jpeg 2EB5C58F-735C-44C1-B067-B1522AD8BA1F.jpeg

If you want a couple send me your address via Private Message and I’ll pop them in the post for you.

And welcome to the forum!

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

I'd just wrap the paper around a short length of picket - maybe a foot long x 1' square. Longer, if you'd prefer to hold the ends of the picket rather than the paper to protect your hands. Drawing pins, tape or staples if you want to affix the paper to the block.

So long as the boards are level, you should be able to quickly bowl over the chamfers on both sides of the gap simultaneously.

It's still time consuming and hands'n'knees stuff, but depending on your grit choice (and depth of stain) should only take a few swipes before moving along.


Another option is to grind the end of a paint scraper to around an 80deg point and use it like a card scraper. This can be also be very quick, depending on the stain type and timber, but if you're not used to card scrapers will probably lead to aching wrists and fingers.

I've tried the paper around the picket previously but not tried fixing the paper to the block. My son has a stapler so it will be easy to try that.

The boards are not that level and the gaps between them vary. The deck is old and has had boards replaced. It's all over the place. In hindsight I should have just replaced all the boards but I'm too far down the track.

At the moment I'm trying some 50mm sanding discs with the cordless and they seem to be removing the stain but the discs get a bit hot and the surface is a bit rough afterwards. Will probably need a finishing sand.

if you can find one a Festool LS130 is probably what you're after i'm sure it wouldn't take much to modify your mouse sander to do a similar job?

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Use a scraper like this one:

1B304AE1-CA43-4082-B414-B2F68477F847.jpeg

Alternatively; I have a load of old TCT cutters from a helical headed thicknesser, one of those screwed onto the end of a block of wood would likely enable you to scrape two chamfered edges at the same time if they are indeed 45 degrees and not badly cupped.

219A1708-256F-4268-9FBD-DB63782E88F3.jpeg EFCE4493-8782-44E4-A949-903DCE584E12.jpeg 2EB5C58F-735C-44C1-B067-B1522AD8BA1F.jpeg

If you want a couple send me your address via Private Message and I’ll pop them in the post for you.

And welcome to the forum!

Thank you for the offer of TCT cutters. It is generous of you but I will plug away with my mini sanding disc and the Festool idea.
I'm hoping to be able to contribute to other sections of this forum given I can't contribute anything regarding wood.

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

if you can find one a Festool LS130 is probably what you're after i'm sure it wouldn't take much to modify your mouse sander to do a similar job?

I've taken a quick look at the LS130 and the profile is just what I need. It's started a conversation with my son about how we can modify the mouse sander or 3D print a v grooved block. We will probably spend more time doing this than the original job would take by hand. But more interesting.

What's wrong with a tiny sharp block plane? Cleans up fast and leaves nice new crisp edge.

Around $100 should get you one for the job.

I suggest a different solution ... solid paint.
No more oiling or sanding or fretting over stains ... for the next 10 years.
Deck & Exterior Timber Paint | Cabot'''s

Long straight edge
trim router
V cutter

just cut the chamfer slightly bigger

I sanded deck and decided to hire a professional.
I've attached some photos of the finished result and I'd really like some advice. One pic show the sanded deck and my test stains.
The product used was Intergrain Ultradeck and 2 full 4 litre cans have been used on a 30sqm area. The tradie started deck was started on Tuesday with a 4 litre can of stain but ran out and did not complete a full coat of the deck. Deck is still a bit tacky to the touch.

Unfortunately that product is a bit overhyped; I used it on my deck which is roughly the same size as yours and mostly undercover but was not overly impressed. The worst part is the tackiness; it stays sticky/tacky for about a week and even then anything you put down on it needs to be regularly moved around a bit before it sticks itself down permanently. I think I used about 6L or so for mine.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Unfortunately that product is a bit overhyped; I used it on my deck which is roughly the same size as yours and mostly undercover but was not overly impressed. The worst part is the tackiness; it stays sticky/tacky for about a week and even then anything you put down on it needs to be regularly moved around a bit before it sticks itself down permanently. I think I used about 6L or so for mine.

Can I ask if you used 6L in one thick coat or over a couple of applications?

Just one coat.