Thread: Treatments for harwood decking?

G'day.

Blackbutt is not required to be treated for external use.
It is not suseptable to lyctus borer attack.
However. If you want an alternative treatment to CCA, why not use Tanalith"E" treated timber?

It outlasts CCA treated and it doesn't contain any of the listed problems that CCA has. It is a purely copper based preservative.

The treated timber goes a light brown colour from the treatment. Very unlike the Green colour of CCA treated timber.
There are a number of companies treating with Tan"E" including my own.

Contact Danias Timber in Marrickville and talk to Micheal. Ask him about the Greeks in Grafton with the Tan"E" timber

Tell him Trevor sent you.

Thanks Trevor
Ill ring them on Monday. In the meantime is Tanalith E done in an Autoclave? ie; does the heartwood get treated?
Also can anyone tell me how long has LOSP decking timber been on the market because I can't understand how it will not rot once you drive a nail through the (UNTREATED) centre of it?
Regards
Tony

G'day Tony

My understanding of LOSP treated timber ( will stand to be corrected on this ) was that it was to stop termite activity, not protection from the elements of rotting and weathering, so I think it will still rot outside regardless of having a nail driven thru it or not unless it is a class 1 durability timber

Originally Posted by glock40sw

G'day.

Blackbutt is not required to be treated for external use.
It is not suseptable to lyctus borer attack.
However. If you want an alternative treatment to CCA, why not use Tanalith"E" treated timber?

It outlasts CCA treated and it doesn't contain any of the listed problems that CCA has. It is a purely copper based preservative.

The treated timber goes a light brown colour from the treatment. Very unlike the Green colour of CCA treated timber.
There are a number of companies treating with Tan"E" including my own.

Contact Danias Timber in Marrickville and talk to Micheal. Ask him about the Greeks in Grafton with the Tan"E" timber

Tell him Trevor sent you.

Yea and then he will try and give you stringybark / satin ash as blackbutt............

Bleedin, are you sure it's LOSP, could it be ACQ ?

Bunnings down here have changed the treated pine decking from CCA to ACQ.

My understanding of LOSP t/pine is that it must be primed & painted, and is usually used for balustrade & veranda componentry.


Cheers................Sean

Hi Scooter,
No its definetly LOSP produced by DESIGN PINE (ITI) http://www.designpine.com.au they also produce the primed stuff. The reason I decided to specify LOSP is that even though I could get ACQ decking I couldn't get the range of dimensions for the bearers, joists, rafters, balasters etc in ACQ. I guess this will change with time once the industry gets used to the fact that (unfortunatly) CCA is dead & buried ( pun intended ) It seems that there may be a bit a jostling to see what preservation treatment will emerge as the industry standard and until that happens there's going to be a few snake oil salesmen telling us that their product is best.

Hi DJ,
No LOSP is used again rot and insect attack see http://www.osmose.com.au/protimh3.html

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Hi DJ,
No LOSP is used again rot and insect attack see http://www.osmose.com.au/protimh3.html

Hi Tony

Thanks for the link. If you have a look on that site it says that you have to treat the timber if you drill or cut it and if used outside must be coated

Note: Osmose does not recommend the use of LOSP treated timber products for use in external applications, unless the timber components have been coated with a three coat paint system or high quality exterior oil based timber stain which will seal the timber from exposure to the elements. For the guarantee to be valid, all exterior timber products treated with PROTIM H3 LOSP, must be painted with an appropriate coating system, which must be well maintained for the duration of the life of the timber product.
PROTIM<SUP>®</SUP> Timbercare
All timber products should be treated in their final shape and form. Any surface exposed by drilling or cutting must be retreated with a suitable cut end preservative (PROTIM XJ® Brush-on preservative is recommended). Failure to re-treat may negate the value of the preservative. Rip sawing, thicknessing and planing are not permitted unless the timber is subsequently re-preserved to the original specification. Use pesticides safely - always read the label.

For best performance, PROTIM H3 treated timber should be kept dry during and after installation.

Originally Posted by Gaza

Yea and then he will try and give you stringybark / satin ash as blackbutt............

G'day Gazza.

He has been known to try and pull a swifty every now and then :eek: .

Hi DJ,
There you go!!!
I knew that you had to re-treat your cuts when using LOSP (you were supposed to do that with CCA but who did?) but what they seem to be saying is not suitable for outside use unless you spend so much time and effort to make it unprofitable and even then their 25 year guarantee sounds a bit hollow.
I've changed my mind - I do that a lot - and decided to give the Tan E a go then I'll just sit back for the next 25 years and see how good it really is.
Also a word of warning when buying treated pine I rang a major timber yard this morning and asked them if they stock Tanalith E, the reply was we certainly do however after some intense quizing it turned out they only stocked LOSP. I'm glad I wasn't placing my order with them!
They then went on to tell me that they had been stocking LOSP decking for 7 years without any problems. This may be true but 2 minutes before the guy was lying through his teeth.:confused:

Hi Trevor, Got a question fer you. Is it safe for me to bring the mosture content down in some timber by directing a flow of warm air through the stacked timber, I need to bring it down to equilivent or their about to air con enviorment in its final resting place. We will be installing the timber in a dry air enviorment by placing a dehumidafier in the room during and post installation . The client does not want gaps when the air con is on. Will i get any distortion ? Also what would be a safe tempreture i should opperate the heater at ?

G'day Larry.
1. How dry is the wood now?
2. What settings will the A/C be set at?
3. If the punter wants no gaps, tell him to use tiles.
4. You would be better off stacking in the area with the A/C running for 2 to 3 weeks prior to laying.
5. cover width will vary due to climatisation insitu. But it shouldn't be too bad.
6. Is it mine or Bruce's wood? If it is, you should be ok with the above. I know Nobby's drying and it is almost as good as Mine. (G'day Bruce).
7. How low do you think the MC will have to be?
8. What is the M2?
9. Do not use heated air. It will destroy the profile.
10. what is the cover width to be used?