Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 76 to 90 of 227
-
27th August 2009, 11:49 AM #76
Richard,
I'm not an avid rowing enthusiast in fact the idea of rowing to me means I've messed up badly to deserve the pain.
Having said that if I were to build one I think it might be this design the transom is gorgeous and I believe the design comes from an area with similar sea conditions. I did not check earlier in the thread maybe it has already been discussed.
The selection process is fun but.
Cheers
Mike
-
27th August 2009 11:49 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
27th August 2009, 03:15 PM #77
When it comes to light weight wooden boats, there are only a few ways to go. Glued lapstrake will be the lightest of all methods, if the plank widths are balanced with longitudinal stiffness needs. In other words, you need more then just a couple of strake per side, so you can reduce planking stock thickness, without lose of strength.
Unless you wanted to go composite, which frankly would be marginal at best in this size range without lots of really expensive fabrics. Conventional cold molding is an option, but not especially backyard friendly and costly. Taped seam multi chine will be fairly light, but not as light as cold molded or glued lap.
Another option is the Lindsay Lord method. It's a form of strip planking that I've adapted and modified for several of my designs. The net result is a true cored, sandwich build, but no 'glass fabrics are used, rather polyester or modified acrylic fabrics, which have much higher elongation properties. Boats built like this are slightly flexible, which is fine in most power and row boat settings, though not so much with most sailboats.
The Lindsay Lord or Lord/PAR build will be lighter then a glued lap by a small amount, but the flexibility will make comfort in pounding conditions a fair bit easier to endure and also increases durability. Unfortunately, the goo factor is pretty high with this type of build and bright finished hulls aren't possible.
From an ease of building thing, glued lap is the hands down winner. Stretch out RYD 12.6 to the size you need up to about 18' (just station mold spacing now). A small deck at each end and a crushed velvet covered thwart and you're good to go.
-
27th August 2009, 04:12 PM #78
I think we've got our winner
She's got the flat bottom for beach landings.
Doesn't have the overhanging ends of some of the dories - considering we're talking small surf, not five footers, is that a problem?
I like the round bilges.
Lapstrake is my preferred building method.
You can keep your crushed velvet
Visually, I've yet to see a dory I like the look of and sadly, the same can be said of Oughtred's beach boats - I like the round hull and lots of planks. That's personal taste mind you, not a reflection on the boats. I also like the engineering advantages of lapstrake - as Paul says, stiff and light.
How long should she be? Limit the length to the max I can get out of two sheets of gaboon scarfed together or go for a wee bit more length and do the extra join?
You'll also note she's a lot like Clint's Drake but with a flat bottom
Richard
-
27th August 2009, 05:18 PM #79
-
27th August 2009, 10:26 PM #80
You really shouldn't have all the plywood joints stacked over each other on the hull. So you might as well make it as long as you want, because you'll have to stagger some of the joints. If it's stretched much over 15', she should get some more sheer, both sweep and height other wise it'll look flat and be a wet ride.
-
28th August 2009, 11:37 AM #81
Howdy, I have few qualms about modern glued joints stacked over each other. Use that in the Eureka to keep all the buttstraps in a neat line midships.
(I know you probably will want to scarf Richard - I won't talk you out of it!)
I think not lining up the butts is a holdover from trad building where the joins were much weaker than the surrounding timber.
In high strength applications like spars or foils I will generally flip things over to make sure the joins don't all line up, but that just takes a few seconds.
Additionally, for the stresses the rowboat hull is under it won't make any difference.
MIK
-
28th August 2009, 12:39 PM #82
I agree Michael, from a technical stand point it shouldn't matter one bit. Then there's the little bastard that stands on my right shoulder. He's the whiner of the lot, but usually has a good point or two, which causes me to lose sleep.
I now have several repair jobs with substantial time on them, where the hood ends of lap strake boats have been replaced. Each has the joints slightly staggered (okay, it was listening a little), but they are basically right over each other, butt joints, painted and holding up fine. The little guy on my other shoulder is laughing his brains out.
-
28th August 2009, 01:44 PM #83
Scarf two sheets of ply together, then scarf half a sheet on the end (see Mik, I am using that 's' word). This gives you the length to build the boat. Work from either end of the sheet for adjacent planks which gives alternating join locations. As the planks get longer from the garboard to the sheer, the joins migrate slightly and with the excess length in the planking stock anyway, it's not hard to have joints all over the place so that instead of the boat breaking in half because I'm a hamfisted clutz, it'll be falling apart all over the place
Paul, will I have to loft the boat or have you done that part of the job? I don't mind lofting, it adds an interesting 'nother element to the job (we built the motor cruiser from tables of coordinates) but it'd be nice to know what I'm in for.
Richard
-
28th August 2009, 09:16 PM #84
I don't offer full size patterns on small craft, mostly because I don't have a 5' wide printer, but also because paper, like wood has a grain and stretches and shrinks with moisture content and especially when it goes through a printer. This makes them inaccurate. Of course Mylar patterns are very accurate, but damn costly. Other "films" can be used to improve accuracy, but these are also fairly costly.
With my plans, you'll get a full set of lines, offsets, construction drawings and a date with my sister.
I recommend lofting for several reasons, but an experienced builder could loft directly to the station molds, which I often do. Since this is a stretch job, it should be lofted to have the changes in heights and widths to pull templates from. The stations are still the same, but nothing else is.
Given 6 mm plywood with an 8:1 scarf, you short yourself 4" compared to a butt joint. This means you can build to a length of about 15' 9" as opposed to 15' 5" if scarfs are used.
The upper strakes will probably "nest" fairly well, so you can flip them end for end to stagger the joints, but the lower strakes will have some "shape" to them and these may require the plywood be canted at the joint. This is common of lapped hulls.
-
28th August 2009, 09:42 PM #85SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Tyrendarra Vic.
- Posts
- 1,166
What about this one , a proven design , tough , long lasting , this one is 152 years old , and self righting .
Regards Rob J.
-
29th August 2009, 08:59 AM #86
What design are you referring Dopey?
-
29th August 2009, 09:43 AM #87
Think it might be this one, Rob still has his L plates on.
Nice pics probably a tad bigger than Richard is imagining me thinks.
-
29th August 2009, 10:01 AM #88SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Tyrendarra Vic.
- Posts
- 1,166
Yes , I was refering to the lifeboat , but under oars.
I have a photo of it during a rescue re-inactment at Portland , during the Admella regatta .
I tried to post a photo , but was unsuccessful.
It can be capsized , filled with water , and self right and empty within 30 seconds or so.
I'll try again , in another post.
Regards Rob J.
-
29th August 2009, 10:05 AM #89SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Tyrendarra Vic.
- Posts
- 1,166
I hope this works.
Sorry , looks like it didn't , again.
Rob J.
-
29th August 2009, 10:23 AM #90SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Tyrendarra Vic.
- Posts
- 1,166
Another try.
Rob J.
Well , again I was unsuccessful , I'm sorry.
The reason I attempted to post it was to show that row boats were built for extreme conditions many years ago , and that we can possibly learn from their design.
These lifeboats were built using diagonal planking , with an impregnated canvas between the layers.
They proved to be extremely strong , and long lasting.
It was just a thought.
Regards Rob J.
Similar Threads
-
Building a Storer Rowboat
By bitingmidge in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 108Last Post: 16th March 2011, 06:23 PM -
Carving a hardwood Whaleboat (rowboat) miniture
By Jason King in forum BOAT DESIGNS / PLANSReplies: 4Last Post: 7th April 2008, 08:53 PM -
New Rowboat Project
By bitingmidge in forum BOAT DESIGNS / PLANSReplies: 0Last Post: 8th November 2005, 07:30 PM -
Sizing considerations for wood screws:
By RETIRED in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 10th July 2001, 09:25 AM