Thread: Woo Hoo got my yellowtail plan today

Howdy - glass is OK and much more commonly used than Dynel for this purpose these days. Dynel is a litte bit more flexible in terms of getting it up and over all the plank laps but offers very little extra strength to the hull.

I am assuming that you are building this as a glued lap project and are not ribbing and rivetting the planks together.

We have built plenty of boats in glued lap without dynel or glass.

If you are planning to coat the boat with epoxy that can provide a good substrate for paint. But if you use the epoxy or not a good paint will pretty well do the job.

Sometimes we will glue a batten along the edge of one of the bottom planks so if the boat is on a hard surface it will sit on the keel and roll over till the batten is in contact. The batten needs to be in the area of the bottom that it supported by the floors or the seat fronts in the Yellowtail and probably needs to be about 4ft long with wedge shaped ends to match up with the planking - if they are square they will catch on the trailer and other things.

Just glue the batten on with temporary fastenings - if it gets damaged you can just plane it off and glue a new one in place.

There is perhaps some argument for glassing the keel to prevent a lot of scraping and grinding - but a glued sacrificial layer on the bottom of the keel will work fine too. Make it about 12mm thick and if it gets damaged plane it off and glue a new one on.

Richard ... PAR ... someone else - your thoughts

MIK

I wouldn't have thought you need dynal or glass unless regularly beaching it on an abrasive surface.

The keel sticks out well below the planks. My keel was done in two bits, oregon inner then kapur (hardwood) outer so there's plenty of protection. I've also got a brass stip screwed to mine for added protection. Sooooo, unless you're dragging her on her side over gravel, I wouldn't have thought you needed anything else though I like Mik's idea of sacrificial runners.

Personally, I see glassing the hull as just a lot of extra work.

Here's a piccy of her upside down


Richard

now, before everyone gets all thingy about me using brass for the rubbing strip - yes, I know the story about it rotting away in salt water ... and, typically, found out a week after it had been screwed and bedded in sika onto the boat. It's been left on because this will be a trailer boat, not living in salt water, so any leaching is going to happen over too long a period to justify pulling it off at this stage

is this the picture you where going to add to your post

That piccy wasn't one I was thinking of but it clearly shows the kapur strip on the bottom

Incidentally, all that white is epoxy filler where someone during the TAFE course (not me), stuffed up a measurement. We made the kapur strip the right size and I filled the gap - it's not as dramatic as it looks and twas a lot of fun sanding to shape

Richard

Hey Daddles,
I'm back in the wonderful wired world of the web..... and life in general.....

What have I missed in the last few weeks - a succinct briefing would save me lots of search and read time......

Originally Posted by Daddles

That piccy wasn't one I was thinking of but it clearly shows the kapur strip on the bottom

Incidentally, all that white is epoxy filler where someone during the TAFE course (not me), stuffed up a measurement. We made the kapur strip the right size and I filled the gap - it's not as dramatic as it looks and twas a lot of fun sanding to shape

Richard

yeah yeah yeah... rightio yep no wukkers ...we believe yer Richard thousands wouldnt but we do!! We KNOW it wasnt you ooohh yes sir we sure do

Still an all... that paint sure does hide a whole lot of fluckups an stuffups dont it young fella

Your believe anything you tell him mate
Shane

I used dynel many years ago on the bottom of a 14' and it certainly sticks better than glass over a sharp edge and it's more abrasive resistant. It doesn't go clear when wetted out though so you have to paint it.
Cheers
Graeme