Thread: Timber Flooring options for new workshop

Personally I think concrete IS the best option . You can hose your shop out for a spring clean, bolt machinery to it,paint it if you want a really clean look,it doesn't need a finish or recoating and is is quite easy to remove spills from. My advice is to buy some of those rubber mats to stand on and spend the money you have saved on the flooring on some neat tools.

Originally Posted by MarkV

Personally I think concrete IS the best option . You can hose your shop out for a spring clean, bolt machinery to it,paint it if you want a really clean look,it doesn't need a finish or recoating and is is quite easy to remove spills from. My advice is to buy some of those rubber mats to stand on and spend the money you have saved on the flooring on some neat tools.

Hi Mark,

Comments appreciated and taken on board. Im kinda hooked on a timber floor but may give the bare concrete a go....if I find it doesnt appeal then I can always put the timber floor down later.

Cheers Martin

Concrete is very tiring on the feet and as MarkV says you can put down rubber mats, the only problem is that they can become a trip hazard.

In the workshop where I served my apprenticeship we had a wooden tallowwood floor and it was excellent to walk on.

You could also use yellow tounge pine flooring sheets.

One of the advatages of putting down a timber floor on joists bolted to the concrete is that you could run electrical cable under the floor boards and put power outlets at fixed machinery rather than having electrical leads running everywhere causing another trip hazard.

One idea that I'm tempted to try is to install a timber floor only around the workbench. The theory is that this is where you'll be standing most of the time, timber is far more forgiving than concrete when edged tools such as chisels and metal tools like hand planes are accidentally knocked onto the floor and the timber floor de-lineates the area for (mostly) hand tool use from the area where your machines (nasty, bitey things) are located.

A couple of sheets of particle board flooring should do it.

HTH,

Mark.

G'day All.
When I get around to it, I am going to lay a block parquetry floor in my shed.
Blocks are 260x65x19. I will use a Pioneer Grade which is the lowest grade and the price is good. Species will be either Spotted Gum of Grey Ironbark. Glued Direct to the concrete with Bostik Ultraset adhesive in a herringbone pattern.
The good part about Parquetry is that if I need to Dynabolt to the concrete, All I have to do is drill thru the timber and straight into the slab. I looked at glueing 12mm overlay T&G to the slab, but I feel it is not thick enough.

The really good part is that I produce Block parquetry and T&G flooring.
The pioneer grade parquetry doesn't sell very well and I can buy for next to nothing.

Hooroo
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Originally Posted by glock40sw

The really good part is that I produce Block parquetry and T&G flooring.
The pioneer grade parquetry doesn't sell very well and I can buy for next to nothing.

Might get in touch with you for a quote on the T and G closer to the date.

Cheers and thanks to all for their input.

Originally Posted by glock40sw

G'day All.
When I get around to it, I am going to lay a block parquetry floor in my shed.
Blocks are 260x65x19. I will use a Pioneer Grade which is the lowest grade and the price is good. Species will be either Spotted Gum of Grey Ironbark. Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Excuse my ignorance Trev but what on earth is this stuff you refer to and what is pioneer Grade. Is this a composite plyood/chipboard ??:confused:

Regards

G'day Squizzy.
Mate, Block parquetry is just that... Blocks of solid kiln dried Hardwood that are machined to 260mm long x 65mm wide x 19 mm thick. They get glued direct to concrete in one of nearly 8 to 10 different patterns. 4 blocks wide equals 1 block long. 4x65mm = 260mm.

A few years ago, I went to the Weinig factory in Germany. Weinig make moulders and optimising docking saws. All their factory floors were 75x75x75mm blocks laid with the end grain up. they said that is was very good for floors of wood shops due to sharp tools not getting damaged if dropped.

We make this and sell it all over Australia and the world.
It needs sanding and sealing just like a T&G timber floor.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Originally Posted by glock40sw

G'day Squizzy.
All their factory floors were 75x75x75mm blocks laid with the end grain up.

It needs sanding and sealing just like a T&G timber floor.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Thanks Trevor. So basically its similar to a lot of the kiln dried real timber flooring thats around?? except thats its in the block sections. Cool. I'd like to see the 75 x 75 x 75, now thats a workshop floor!.

Anyway, is there anywhere I can get my eyeballs on some in WA?

What do they normally seal/finish it with. In a worshop I like to avoid a too smooth surface that can become slippery.

Cheers

Squizzy.
You could talk to Ted at Bosch Timber Floors. He is in Perth.
He is in the book. Sorry, I don't have his number with me.

He also carries our 12mm T&G solid Hardwood overlay flooring.
If you talk to him, ask about the stuff in the "Blue Plastic" from Grafton.

Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

Originally Posted by glock40sw

Squizzy.
You could talk to Ted at Bosch Timber Floors. He is in Perth.
He is in the book. Sorry, I don't have his number with me.

He also carries our 12mm T&G solid Hardwood overlay flooring.
If you talk to him, ask about the stuff in the "Blue Plastic" from Grafton.

Im interested too....any suppliers in Adelaide?

Cheers Martin

G'day Martin.
AT the moment, We don't have a rep in Adelaide.
Send me a PM with your snail mail address and I will see about mailing you some samples of the Block Parquetry for nothing.

Squizzy, If you want some, you can do the same and I will send some to you too.
Hooroo
Regards, Trevor
Grafton